Ok so I finally got around to checking my starter. Pulled it today and noticed that the gears are worn and chipped. Also noticed when I shake the starter it makes a rattling noise. So I try to move the the gear and it visibly moves side to side. Bring it to Checkers and it tests good. They tell me its normal to have that much play??
Manager tests it for me and says it sounds really weak even though it passed and that their tests are pretty much BS because its one thing for it to spin freely than compared to having to move the flywheel. It also should not have play like that. So come to find out its still under warranty but they dont have it. So he sends me to another store about 5 miles away and reserves it for me.
I'm at the other store and this 60 year old woman looks at it and of course she says they are not the same and doesn't want to warranty it. And apparantly the # was different, I purchased it in 2003 in Pennsylvania. Manager comes over and hes looking at it. I'm like the starter has not come off the vehicle since I bought it in 2003. It's the same starter, the other store has no problem replacing it with the warranty, they just don't have it. So he's looking through his computer and talking in spanish to his co-workers about the situation. The whole time the old hag is shaking her head and mouthing its not the same starter. I wanted to punch her in the face lol.
So I notice there is no spade connector for the starter and paperwork they give me explains why. I bet that is why she thought it was the wrong one, either that or she is just dumb.
This is what the paper says.
"Applications equipped with Motorcraft style PMGR starters have a no start problem that usually occurs because of a bad ground or due to corrosion at the ignition terminal of the starter solenoid. Your starter was originally equipped with a male spade type of connector which is not protected from the elements thus creating corrosion and a poor connection.
Ford Motor Company has recognized this as a problem. A conversion kit was produced to change the original spade connector to an eyelet/post type connection. This provides better current carrying capabilities and is more corrosion resistant."
Figured some of you guys would find this helpful when trying to figure out a starting issue. I'm also going to replace the positive cable and grounds. Is there only one ground going from the battery to the timing chain cover? I'll probably add another from there to the frame for some additional insurance.
Sorry for the ridiculously long post...
Manager tests it for me and says it sounds really weak even though it passed and that their tests are pretty much BS because its one thing for it to spin freely than compared to having to move the flywheel. It also should not have play like that. So come to find out its still under warranty but they dont have it. So he sends me to another store about 5 miles away and reserves it for me.
I'm at the other store and this 60 year old woman looks at it and of course she says they are not the same and doesn't want to warranty it. And apparantly the # was different, I purchased it in 2003 in Pennsylvania. Manager comes over and hes looking at it. I'm like the starter has not come off the vehicle since I bought it in 2003. It's the same starter, the other store has no problem replacing it with the warranty, they just don't have it. So he's looking through his computer and talking in spanish to his co-workers about the situation. The whole time the old hag is shaking her head and mouthing its not the same starter. I wanted to punch her in the face lol.
So I notice there is no spade connector for the starter and paperwork they give me explains why. I bet that is why she thought it was the wrong one, either that or she is just dumb.
This is what the paper says.
"Applications equipped with Motorcraft style PMGR starters have a no start problem that usually occurs because of a bad ground or due to corrosion at the ignition terminal of the starter solenoid. Your starter was originally equipped with a male spade type of connector which is not protected from the elements thus creating corrosion and a poor connection.
Ford Motor Company has recognized this as a problem. A conversion kit was produced to change the original spade connector to an eyelet/post type connection. This provides better current carrying capabilities and is more corrosion resistant."
Figured some of you guys would find this helpful when trying to figure out a starting issue. I'm also going to replace the positive cable and grounds. Is there only one ground going from the battery to the timing chain cover? I'll probably add another from there to the frame for some additional insurance.
Sorry for the ridiculously long post...