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Rattle can paint recommendations

  • Thread starter Thread starter limp
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2022
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
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#1
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #1
Painting my new rear end black ( no jokes here) and not very happy with how the paint is working using Rust Oleum... I used Eastwood products 15 years ago on my dodge and was happy with the results....
Any recommendations on some better rattle can paint brands?
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
5 Year Member
May 15, 2018
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#2
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #2
I always liked using por15 when I can. When it dries it’s hard as hell.
 

Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
5 Year Member
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Mar 24, 2022
#3
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #3
I like Eastwood...Don't like shipping with them. It's like 8-12 bucks to ship a can. What about the engine enamel at Advanced auto. I use that because it's thick, and doesn't separate
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
15 Year Member
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#4
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #4
POR 15 gets my vote also.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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Mar 24, 2022
#5
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #5
I painted my rear in black POR15 about 15 years ago.

It’s still in great shape. Would do again, but I don’t need to.
 

OldManRiver

Active Member
Feb 14, 2015
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Mar 24, 2022
#6
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #6
Used POR15 here also,and like stated it's held up great for many years.
Works best on rusty metal after removing any loose scale,can't say I've ever used it on an already painted surface.

Seeing how the rear end is well protected under the car,it should hold up fine either way.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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polk county florida
Mar 24, 2022
#7
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #7
Mustang5L5 said:
I painted my rear in black POR15
Click to expand...

Mustang5L5 said:
It’s still in great shape
Click to expand...
Too bad.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
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Mar 24, 2022
#8
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #8
The POR15 is tough stuff and no joke.


An equally nice, although not as durable; finish would be some regular ole Rustoleum rusty metal primer (2 or 3 coats) and a couple of coats of Wrinkle Black:

Amazon product ASIN B000CPIMXKView: https://smile.amazon.com/VHT-SP201-Wrinkle-Black-Coating/dp/B000CPIMXK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AJ46M0E56WGA&keywords=wrinkle+black+paint&qid=1648173255&sprefix=wrinkle+black+paint%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-1


Spray that stuff on a warm day and in full sun. Otherwise, you'll need a warm paint booth (thingy) and some halogen lamps. For an entire axle: 4 x 300 watts should do. You might get away with 3 but the finish won't be as even.

The stuff is amazing and holds up very well to grease etc. Stupid easy to touch up too.
 
Reactions: General karthief

Cheapskate207

The left one hangs a little lower
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#9
  • Mar 24, 2022
  • #9
I’m not sure it’s the tool for the job but I’ve had good results with black rustoleum appliance epoxy. It comes out very thick and glossy.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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Mar 25, 2022
#10
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #10
I went the RustOleum gloss black route also. Had it down to bare metal, prime, and paint. Pretty happy so far.
……and cause everybody likes pictures….


 
Reactions: General karthief

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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Mar 25, 2022
#11
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #11
limp said:
Painting my new rear end black ( no jokes here)
Click to expand...
What’s problem with that sentence?
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
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Mar 25, 2022
#12
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #12
Thanks for all the help everyone
Its a new rear, so no rust problems.....
As said I have been using Satin Black Rustoleum and it just isn't flowing very well. I am sure I am being too picky here...
 

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
15 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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Mar 25, 2022
#13
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #13
Yes too picky you are,that looks great!!!
 
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limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
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Mar 25, 2022
#14
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #14
Hey, I am looking at the 8.8's on here and there are additional brackets at each end than my 9" has? Please don't tell me those are for shocks or something else I will need......
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#15
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #15
Thise brackets are quad shock brackets. You shouldn't need them. If you're putting a 9 inch in there the control arms and bushings will do that job. The factory bushings are soft so extra dampers were needed.
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
15 Year Member
Apr 3, 2009
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Mar 25, 2022
#16
  • Mar 25, 2022
  • #16
90sickfox said:
Thise brackets are quad shock brackets. You shouldn't need them. If you're putting a 9 inch in there the control arms and bushings will do that job. The factory bushings are soft so extra dampers were needed.
Click to expand...
yeah Ford's bandaid for wheel hop. As soon as I put upgraded control arms in I tossed the quads and brackets.
 
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A

apple99Mustangdude

Member
Feb 11, 2018
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#17
  • Mar 26, 2022
  • #17
I watch Scotty Kilmer video's a lot on youtube, he mentioned automotivetouchup.com - they have some video's on their site also - I contacted them, am considering trying to paint my 99 Mustang's laser red hood which has bad cracking - bad paint I heard that year. They asked me to send them some picks of the cracking to advise - if you want to match factory paint, they match off the VIN of your car the color code -
 
Reactions: nickyb

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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Mar 26, 2022
#18
  • Mar 26, 2022
  • #18
In my limited automotive paint experience paint cracks or 'spider webs' on painted metal parts is likely paint that is too thick, I would sand it down to the factory primer if possible, some take it down to bare metal then apply etching primer, when removing the paint don't over heat the metal skin, it is thin and can warp.
JMO.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
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Mar 27, 2022
#19
  • Mar 27, 2022
  • #19
Had good luck using some of the cheapy vertical feed paint guns from Harbor Freight for doing under body parts instead of rattle cans. They were fairly inexpensive and easy to clean. My " wrap the pipe around the garage with some drains" worked really well in Oregon for cooling and condensing the hot compressor air to keep any water out of the gun.. No way that will work in High Humidity Florida.... So I am back to the rattle cans here... NO $4K dryer in my garage......
Buying a qt or gallon of quality paint and using the small touch up or regular sized vertical feed HF guns did a MUCH better job than rattle cans... If they got clogged or went bad, I threw it away and bought a new one.... Again, this is for priming and small parts.. It would work well for the rear end I am doing...
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
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Mar 27, 2022
#20
  • Mar 27, 2022
  • #20
90sickfox said:
Thise brackets are quad shock brackets. You shouldn't need them. If you're putting a 9 inch in there the control arms and bushings will do that job. The factory bushings are soft so extra dampers were needed.
Click to expand...
PLanning on using the Steeda adjustable lower control arms with stock uppers....
 
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