Rattle can paint recommendations

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
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Florida
Painting my new rear end black ( no jokes here) and not very happy with how the paint is working using Rust Oleum... I used Eastwood products 15 years ago on my dodge and was happy with the results....
Any recommendations on some better rattle can paint brands?
 
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I like Eastwood...Don't like shipping with them. It's like 8-12 bucks to ship a can. What about the engine enamel at Advanced auto. I use that because it's thick, and doesn't separate
 
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Used POR15 here also,and like stated it's held up great for many years.
Works best on rusty metal after removing any loose scale,can't say I've ever used it on an already painted surface.

Seeing how the rear end is well protected under the car,it should hold up fine either way.
 
The POR15 is tough stuff and no joke.


An equally nice, although not as durable; finish would be some regular ole Rustoleum rusty metal primer (2 or 3 coats) and a couple of coats of Wrinkle Black:

Amazon product ASIN B000CPIMXKView: https://smile.amazon.com/VHT-SP201-Wrinkle-Black-Coating/dp/B000CPIMXK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=AJ46M0E56WGA&keywords=wrinkle+black+paint&qid=1648173255&sprefix=wrinkle+black+paint%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-1


Spray that stuff on a warm day and in full sun. Otherwise, you'll need a warm paint booth (thingy) and some halogen lamps. For an entire axle: 4 x 300 watts should do. You might get away with 3 but the finish won't be as even.

The stuff is amazing and holds up very well to grease etc. Stupid easy to touch up too.
 
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I went the RustOleum gloss black route also. Had it down to bare metal, prime, and paint. Pretty happy so far.
……and cause everybody likes pictures….
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Thanks for all the help everyone
Its a new rear, so no rust problems.....
As said I have been using Satin Black Rustoleum and it just isn't flowing very well. I am sure I am being too picky here...
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Hey, I am looking at the 8.8's on here and there are additional brackets at each end than my 9" has? Please don't tell me those are for shocks or something else I will need......
 
Thise brackets are quad shock brackets. You shouldn't need them. If you're putting a 9 inch in there the control arms and bushings will do that job. The factory bushings are soft so extra dampers were needed.
 
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Thise brackets are quad shock brackets. You shouldn't need them. If you're putting a 9 inch in there the control arms and bushings will do that job. The factory bushings are soft so extra dampers were needed.
yeah Ford's bandaid for wheel hop. As soon as I put upgraded control arms in I tossed the quads and brackets.
 
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I watch Scotty Kilmer video's a lot on youtube, he mentioned automotivetouchup.com - they have some video's on their site also - I contacted them, am considering trying to paint my 99 Mustang's laser red hood which has bad cracking - bad paint I heard that year. They asked me to send them some picks of the cracking to advise - if you want to match factory paint, they match off the VIN of your car the color code -
 
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In my limited automotive paint experience paint cracks or 'spider webs' on painted metal parts is likely paint that is too thick, I would sand it down to the factory primer if possible, some take it down to bare metal then apply etching primer, when removing the paint don't over heat the metal skin, it is thin and can warp.
JMO.
 
Had good luck using some of the cheapy vertical feed paint guns from Harbor Freight for doing under body parts instead of rattle cans. They were fairly inexpensive and easy to clean. My " wrap the pipe around the garage with some drains" worked really well in Oregon for cooling and condensing the hot compressor air to keep any water out of the gun.. No way that will work in High Humidity Florida.... So I am back to the rattle cans here... NO $4K dryer in my garage......
Buying a qt or gallon of quality paint and using the small touch up or regular sized vertical feed HF guns did a MUCH better job than rattle cans... If they got clogged or went bad, I threw it away and bought a new one.... Again, this is for priming and small parts.. It would work well for the rear end I am doing...