re-installing transmissions

1WildII · Jun 16, 2004

I got the motor and tranny out of the car and I pulled the tranny off, now its time for it to go back on and it doesnt seem to want to, it goes on almost all the way and goes on just enough to barely be on the pins but it wont go any further. Do I just tighten the bolts to pull it to the motor, or do I fiddle until it slides right up to the block? I tried tightening the bolts and it was almost on, but it didnt feel right, the thing wasnt even on and I thought I was gonna have to get out a breaker bar, so I stopped and pulled them out again. Any help would be great,

Chris

jshcobra · Jun 16, 2004

Are you installing a manual transmission? If so, make sure you have the correct diameter pilot bushing/bearing. If that's not the problem, loosen the pressure plate enough to slide the clutch disc around, then stick the transmission on without the bellhousing so the input shaft centers the disc. Then, tighten the pressure plate and try again. Usually, even when the disc is centered, it takes some wiggling/jiggling side to side, up and down before the clutch disc will fit on to the splines on the input shaft.

Joeverb · Jun 16, 2004

DO NOT FORCE IT!

Auto or manual?

1WildII · Jun 17, 2004

it is an automatic

a351Must2 · Jun 17, 2004

Automatic: make sure the torque converter is seated all the way in. I've had the same problem more than once thinking the torque converter was all the way in and finding out it's not when it came time to bolt it down.

You end up having to spin the torque converter while pushing it in to get the last set of splines to go all the way on.

Wart · Jun 17, 2004

jshcobra said:
Are you installing a manual transmission? If so, make sure you have the correct diameter pilot bushing/bearing. If that's not the problem, loosen the pressure plate enough to slide the clutch disc around, then stick the transmission on without the bellhousing so the input shaft centers the disc. Then, tighten the pressure plate and try again. Usually, even when the disc is centered, it takes some wiggling/jiggling side to side, up and down before the clutch disc will fit on to the splines on the input shaft.

With clutches that use a cable or hydraulic it's much easier to get the input through the disk then have someone push the clutch pedal to release the plate.

Wart · Jun 17, 2004

a351Must2 said:
Automatic: make sure the torque converter is seated all the way in. I've had the same problem more than once thinking the torque converter was all the way in and finding out it's not when it came time to bolt it down.

You end up having to spin the torque converter while pushing it in to get the last set of splines to go all the way on.

And,

Make sure the converter drain plug aligns with it's hole in the flexplate.

And what 351 wrote: Make sure the pump drive dogs on the converter are fully seated in the pump before you start to install the trans.

1WildII · Jun 17, 2004

hmm... it still wishes not to go on, any other ideas, I got a new motor ready to lower in and all thats holding me back is this stupid transmission

LedZ 5.0 · Jun 17, 2004

Remove the torque converter and make sure the trans input shaft is seated all the way than install the converter again. Check to see if the converter now sits farther back in the case.

1WildII · Jun 17, 2004

ok, ill give it a shot. How do you remove the TC?

(Thanks a bunch for the help guys, hopefully I can get this blasted thing back on!)

Chris

LedZ 5.0 · Jun 17, 2004

Just pull the torque converter off the trans carefully with the hub facing up so it doesn't leak fluid. Than just remove the input shaft and reinstall making sure it's seated all the way. Do that a few times to be sure. Reinstall the converter slowly making sure it is fully seated as previously posted. Turn and push the converter on carefully so no damage is done to the front pump seal.

jshcobra · Jun 18, 2004

Wart said:
With clutches that use a cable or hydraulic it's much easier to get the input through the disk then have someone push the clutch pedal to release the plate.

I agree with you on that, Wart, but I got the impression he's installing the tranny with the motor out of the car. I suppose he could pull real hard on the clutch cable with his hands...

Joeverb · Jun 18, 2004

jshcobra said:
I agree with you on that, Wart, but I got the impression he's installing the tranny with the motor out of the car. I suppose he could pull real hard on the clutch cable with his hands...

i always just installed the assembly and the bell then dropped it in the car and then put the tranny in under the car while someone pushed the clutch in. Maybe thats the hard way but it beats fighting with it. Gotta crawl under anyway for the drive shaft etc.

Wart · Jun 18, 2004

jshcobra said:
I agree with you on that, Wart, but I got the impression he's installing the tranny with the motor out of the car. I suppose he could pull real hard on the clutch cable with his hands...

Oops.

That is painfully obvious, isn't it?

Wart · Jun 18, 2004

Joeverb said:
i always just installed the assembly and the bell then dropped it in the car and then put the tranny in under the car while someone pushed the clutch in. Maybe thats the hard way but it beats fighting with it. Gotta crawl under anyway for the drive shaft etc.

The #1 reason for doing it this way is it tends to keep more of the trans juice in the transmission. Otherwise you need / have to have a spare yoke and speedometer cable end.

The #2 reason to install the engine and trans seperately is you don't need to crank the eng/trans to extreme angles. The dampener doesn't get hung up on the radiator support, less chance of scratching something.... it seems to be less of a battle overall.

The #1 nasty of installing the trans after the engine is you really should have an actual transmission jack for an automatic. The RAD is a dainty little thing, I've bench pressed the things in. Can't do that with an auto, and if the auto slips off the jack , that's a little more excitment than I need. You need to be very, very careful and attentive.

77sleeper · Jun 18, 2004

Wart said:
The RAD is a dainty little thing, I've bench pressed the things in. Can't do that with an auto, and if the auto slips off the jack , that's a little more excitment than I need. You need to be very, very careful and attentive.

my dad put his C-6 on his chest rolled under the car and benched and held it in place while I started 2 bell bolts on his old fairlane-500

of course he is a freaking monster and benches like 450

Wart · Jun 18, 2004

77sleeper said:
of course he is a freaking monster and benches like 450

I had one of them too.

He could curl 150 with one arm.

I was the weight.

1WildII · Jun 19, 2004

ok... am I doing this right? Torque convrter was removed from the flywheel and stuffed in the tranny, then I line it back up and put it back on? How do I rebolt the torque converter back on? Thanks,

Chris

LedZ 5.0 · Jun 19, 2004

Ok, now I see what your problem was to begin with. You can't install the transmission very easily with the torque converter bolted up to the flexplate. You must install the torque converter on the transmission first before bolting it up to the block. And the converter must be seated all the way on the front pump. I would suggest you replace the front pump seal since you tried to install the trans with the converter bolted to the flexplate. If it leaks you will have to remove the trans again.

You should also install the trans very straight or on a slight angle to keep the torque converter from moving out of position. Once you have the trans bolted to the block than you can move the torque converter forward from the bottom of the bell at the inspection cover area or at the starter opening. You must line up the converter drain plug with the correct hole in the flex plate, as previously posted, than tighten all the converter bolts. It would also be a good idea to use lock tight on the bolt threads so they won't come loose in the future.
It should go smooth for you this time.

Wart · Jun 20, 2004

LedZ 5.0 said:
Ok, now I see what your problem was to begin with. You can't install the transmission very easily with the torque converter bolted up to the flexplate.

It's damn near impossible. Tried it once with a PowerGlide about 28 years ago. Never tried it again.

What led said, replace the seal.

I would also inspect the dogs for burrs. From what I've heard you may also want to inspect the pump, depending on how hard you tried to force the trans with the bolts. (?)

Since the converter is off hte trans make sure it fits inside the flexplate.

Position the flex plate so you can see the drain plug hole. Put the converter onthe trans, rotate it till it slides home. This will be the dogs engaging the pump.

re-installing transmissions

1WildII

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jshcobra

Joeverb

1WildII

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a351Must2

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Wart

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Wart

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1WildII

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LedZ 5.0

now you have my pea brain going in circles

1WildII

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LedZ 5.0

now you have my pea brain going in circles

jshcobra

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Wart

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Wart

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77sleeper

GO BUCS!

Wart

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1WildII

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now you have my pea brain going in circles

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re-installing transmissions

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Windsor II

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now you have my pea brain going in circles

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now you have my pea brain going in circles

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

I'm Mad as HELL and I'M not Gonna Take it ANYMORE!

GO BUCS!

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now you have my pea brain going in circles

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