Ready to buy a rice burner.......Not Really just need help!!!!!

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

Here is the problem.

Before driving:

I can start my car and it will run fine, but after a couple of minutes it will start cutting out. Acting like it's loading up. After it starts cutting out I can turn the ignition switch off then back on and it smooths out. But after a couple of minutes it starts over again.

While driving :

I can start driving and it runs fine. Balls to the wall. After a minute or two it will start cuting out. If I hold it in 3rd gear at 3 to 4,000 RPM'S after about a minute or two it will smooth out and stay running perfect until I shut it off. Then once I start it again it's the same process. I can also turn the car off while driving and back on and it smooths out, but only for a couple of minutes.

Any suggestions on what the hell is wrong?????????????

1982matthew · Mar 17, 2008

maybe you have a leaky injector.

1982matthew · Mar 17, 2008

It sounds like you might have a leaky injector

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

I swapped the current injectors with a set of stock injectors and no change. THey could have been bad also but not sure.

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

Id pull some codes to start with, check your fuel pressure, man this is a bitch of a problem. id say pull codes cold and hot, and check your plugs/wires/dizzy as well. I know sometimes caps can be cracked and when they warm up, and/or are cold can buck and be running good cold and bad hot or vise versa, but f me buddy this is a good one.

--Chuck

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

Here's the codes I'm pulling.

Engine Cold (Off) Engine Cold (On)
21 21
23 23
24 94
67 44
81 33
82
84
85

Engine Warm (off) Engine Warm (on)

23 21
81 23
82 94
84 44
85 33

Checked my TPS. Its at .98

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

Holy ***** ton of codes Batman! Ok off the top of my head I see egr failure, and your air pump thermactor , engine coolant temp out of range cold and hot. and various other crap... I would suggest you run a test while driving which would save a movie that you could preview when you stopped, BUT you don't have an expensive ass scanner that'll do that, SO, I will have to ask just to rule out a few codes; Do you have the air pump system still? What about the EGR, did you remove it? When was the last time the ect was replaced and if you have tested the voltage of it manually to rule out signal or pcm failure/problem. Also just for kicks I would check your grounds using a voltage drop test across the ground wires to make sure that everything is getting a good ground to run properly. Just a few simple quick things to rule out the easy things. Man this is hard to diagnose without actually being there... Hope this is good info for you and not in left field.

--Chuck

ps: this just came to mind, see if your TPS has any dead spots in it, best way is to use an analog voltmeter, a dead spot can cause some weird ***** to happen, though i dont think this is the case here, but hell anything goes.

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

When you pulled your codes KOER Warm did the problem persist? Thanks

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

Here in the part of Ohio that I live in the gov does not require smog so I removed everything but the EGR Valve. It's still there. I have switched diffrent computers and still had the same problems.
I have check the ground to the computer and the ground to the engine and both seem to in good shape.
I am have some kind of electical problem. Sometimes when the doors are closed and I try to roll down either window they wont budge and it wont lock either. But if i open the door it will roll down and lock. But thats every once in a great while.

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

The problem does it whether cold or warm.

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

damystikal69 said:
I am have some kind of electical problem. Sometimes when the doors are closed and I try to roll down either window they wont budge and it wont lock either. But if i open the door it will roll down and lock. But thats every once in a great while.

That sounds like a bad connection in the door that may or might not shake loose, either that, or you have some sort of short/cross that when you open the door and the button is unpressed it allowed voltage to pass. you should take the panel off and do a voltage and voltage drop test (door closed vs door open). So far as your other crap? I'm still thinking.. damn, cant bring it to New Mexico can you? LoL

--Chuck

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

I also remember a problem I had on an second get Rx7 with the ecu connector that wasn't plugged in all the way, the car would run fine run fine run fine start bucking like all hell and all sorts of crap would go apes. Same thing will happen with bad grounds, again, hope this is in the right direction, if anything, its something to eliminate.

--Chuck

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

LOL. I wish I could bring it out but I'm in Ohio. Yeah It bugs the crap out of everyone I know. I think I've tried just about every thing.

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

I was hoping some of the other fellahs might come out and play with this one.. no luck though it seems. I would like to see a few different angles tackled at this one. Seems almost like its got a problem going into 'warm cruise' mode, or is malfunctioning around there, why only that point in time I cant say. i know at WOT you should be having the least problems as its basically running off of maps that are in the memory....... *think stupid think*... Uhh... let me ask around.

--Chuck

damystikal69 · Mar 17, 2008

Thanks I really appreciate it. It's been this way since I put the motor together and dropped it in. Projects been completed for 2 years and have yet to really enjoy it because of this problem. Hell I can't even take it to the track.

DrMaxit · Mar 17, 2008

No prob man, ****, I think Ive probably confused you more than anything, LoL.

Stang2Man · Mar 17, 2008

I'm not trying to hijack a thread or even promote another site but have you tried Stangbangers out of Cincy? I think they're actually located either in Beechmont or
Eastgate, I cant' remember where my brother told me they are out of. He's talked to a few of those guys, he lives just off of 32 out of Highland county.
BTW I have the same problem with my windows and door locks on occassion usually anytime I want/need to put the window back up is when it won't go up so I just gotta keep playing around with it til she goes, I have replaced the lock motors in both doors, so I figure it's just some wiring somewhere I need to track down, especially since mine is a rebuild after a T-Bone on the driver's side. If I talk stangs with my bro in the next day or so, I ask him about shops in your area or anybody who might play around with em alot.

damystikal69 · Mar 18, 2008

I've tried a few places and no luck. I even have a buddy thats been messing with stangs for 30 years and it puzzles the heck out of him. I was just hoping that someone on here had the same problem.

damystikal69 · Mar 19, 2008

One thing that I had forgot to mention was that my voltage gauge seems to move up and down. Goes up and stays at normal range when driving but when sitting idle it goes down.

Big Top GT · Mar 19, 2008

It goes down at idle because the alternator isn't turning as fast. That's normal.

I'm wondering if maybe it's a bad fuel pump. Once it heats up it doesn't seem to be flowing.

Just a thought.

A

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