Really need suggestions!

green_drop

New Member
May 29, 2003
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This is my car and everything that is done to it.

1995 Mustang GT Convert.

-Ford Motor sports 4.10 rearend gear
-BBK shorty equal length headers
-bassani x-pipe with cats
-mac 2.5 cat-back exhaust
-jegster upper and lower control arms
-kyb gas-a-just shocks and struts
-gms subframe connectors
-FMS aluminum driveshaft
-Tremec TKO 5-speed transmission
-mac cold air intake
-FMS 65mm Throttle body
-Trickflow upper and lower intake
-Nitrous Express 150 shot wet kit
-Nitrous Express purge kit
-275/40R17 nitto drag radials in back
-245/45r17 BFgoodrich comp T/A in front
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Aeromotive 255lph intank fuel pump
-Jacobs Fire control ignition system
-NGK spark plugs
-180 degree thermostat
-Trickflow twisted wedge heads
-Gaskets port matched from heads to intake
-FMS Hardened push rods
-E-303 Cam
-Ford racing 1.6 roller rockers
-C&L 73mm mass air calib for 30lbs injectors
-Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-ford racing 30lbs injectors
-Dyno tuned with a Diablo chip
-Ford racing roller timing chain

only 272hp to the wheels(dont' understand)

My problem is I have stock computer with no chip or anything. My car always takes a long time to get down to idle. If the car is just idling and then you rev it up it stops at 2 then 1500 then to 1 then eventually it comes to an idle and yes the computer has been reset many times. This happend after i put an igition box on the car but i don't understand cause all these speed shops tell me its normal and that a chip won't do anything for my car. My buddy has a msd box works fine idle comes right down. I had two different ignition boxes and still the same thing happens. I dont' understand why i can't make it work for my car. Plus i think i should be making more hp with my setup. I am looking for any feedback that might help me out about my idle problem and what should do about the computer the tweecer looks cool but it seems to advanced for me to know how to tune all the stuff.
 
I think the only way to find whats going on is to put the car back on a dyno and see where the A/F ratio is at and things of that nature. Who knows maybe its the E cam thats just not up for the challege of whats done to the car. Look into a cutom cam to get the most usable power through out the power range. Hopefully someone else will chim in and shed some more light on this subject. good luck.
 
From what I have read it's one of the best way to custom tune your car and that way you are not married to a chip. Once you get a chip and change something you must have it re burned again. A tuner frees you of that bondage. The tweecer seems to be a favorite for most but you need a laptop to do the work(if you don't have one you have to either borrow someone’s or buy one) their is a tuner called the PMS from Anderson ford.com check that out as well. There is a thread started already from VibrantRedGT who just bought one. It has pics to.
 
green_drop said:
Sorry somes things are not right on my list. It has a 75mm pro-m and its dyno tuned just not with a chip. Plus thats 272hp on motor.

If it is dyno tuned but with no chip then what tuning device did they use or are you saying they fiddled with the fuel pressure and twisted the dizzy.

If your answer is they used the second method then you have so many parts that is causing your drivability to go out the window and the afpr/dizzy twist won't do a whole lot for slaying the drivability gremlins.

Based on my experience and IMHO a custom tune by yourself (Tweecer or whatever) or a chip guy will make things all well again with your Stang :nice:

Later
Grady