Rear '68 Coilover system, bye bye leaf springs...

CrisNavarro · Jul 31, 2020

Hi!
My next step is to change the rear leaf springs suspensions system for a coilover system.
I saw some options on the internet, I think here are the best ones:
Street or Track
Global West
Total Control Products
Ridetech
But this brands are focused for high perfromance, like for track cars.
I am going to drive on streets and I am looking for something cheaper, some recommendation? Someone with experience to recommend 3 or 4 links?
What do you think about something like this?

wicked93gs · Aug 4, 2020

If you are not wanting it for performance....what swap from leaf springs at all? Leaf springs are perfectly sufficient for the street, there are a lot of different leaf options out there that will ride very nicely paired with the correct shock.

CrisNavarro · Aug 4, 2020

wicked93gs said:
If you are not wanting it for performance....what swap from leaf springs at all? Leaf springs are perfectly sufficient for the street, there are a lot of different leaf options out there that will ride very nicely paired with the correct shock.

Thanks for your opinion. Yes I want to have more performance, 347 stroker. I like more the coilover system, but I don't know really good which one to choose.

wicked93gs · Aug 5, 2020

CrisNavarro said:
Thanks for your opinion. Yes I want to have more performance, 347 stroker. I like more the coilover system, but I don't know really good which one to choose.

Street or Track is the one I would go with. I know you want to save money...but SoT's coilover systems(front and rear) always have positive reviews about improving ride quality over the stock components, even though they are performance orientated. They have "street" kits in addition to "sport" kits. In the end, if you are looking for improved ride...its not the spring that is going to give it to you, its the SHOCK, in particular, matching the correct shock to the correct spring will result in the best performance ...or alternatively the best ride. I would not touch a cheap coil over kit with a 10 foot pole, all that cheap mean is that no real time and effort went into matching springs and shocks, and do research and development time went into testing. Sure...it might bolt up and allow you to raise or lower your car with a coilover wrench....but whats the point of that if it doesn't improve lap times, slalom times, or skidpad times? Ride height adjustments can be made using lowering blocks or cutting coil springs...if you arent getting actual performance out of a coil over setup you are wasting your money.

Take that 4 link you listed above. Not knowing exactly what kit it is, I can't say anything about it one way or the other, but looking at it, I see links without heim joints, relying on bushings....which is fine, but it means that there is deflection that would not exist in a higher quality kit. I see a bunch of weld-on brackets, which are also fine, but its a big risk to take if you find out you are unhappy with the final product, every time you weld a bracket onto a rear axle, you are taking the chance of warping the tubes(well in reality you ARE warping the tubes) there is a good chance of ruining a housing if you change the setup multiple times because you weren't happy with the first setup you chose. I also see what look to be cheap shocks that are bound to give a less-than-ideal ride. Shocks are the one part of the suspension you really don't want to go cheap with.

What I am getting at here is that a cheap kit will cost you more in the end than buying a more expensive kit that you KNOW many people are happy with because you will be changing things out multiple times until you are happy with it. What happens if you buy that kit you listed and it rides like most cheap coilover kits ride...harsh and uncomfortable because of poor shock and spring choices? What happens if it has a tendency to bind in corners because not enough actual driving and testing has been done with it?

rbohm · Aug 5, 2020

wicked93gs is right on this, the kit you showed is cheap at best. you can mitigate a few issues indicated by swapping the rubber bushings at one end of each link bar with a heim joint. also while teh kit is probably quite cheap, you can again mitigate some of the issues by paying attention to details when installing it. measure several times, then cut once. take your time and get every thing right before you do any final welding. and there are ways to mitigate any axle housing warping by using several tack welds and jumping around as you weld. ultimately tying each tack weld together. there are also ways to support the axle housing to prevent warppage.

fostereast · Aug 10, 2020

Plus One for Street or Track 3 Link! Mike Maier also makes some very nice rear suspension mods

CrisNavarro · Aug 12, 2020

wicked93gs said:
Street or Track is the one I would go with. I know you want to save money...but SoT's coilover systems(front and rear) always have positive reviews about improving ride quality over the stock components, even though they are performance orientated. They have "street" kits in addition to "sport" kits. In the end, if you are looking for improved ride...its not the spring that is going to give it to you, its the SHOCK, in particular, matching the correct shock to the correct spring will result in the best performance ...or alternatively the best ride. I would not touch a cheap coil over kit with a 10 foot pole, all that cheap mean is that no real time and effort went into matching springs and shocks, and do research and development time went into testing. Sure...it might bolt up and allow you to raise or lower your car with a coilover wrench....but whats the point of that if it doesn't improve lap times, slalom times, or skidpad times? Ride height adjustments can be made using lowering blocks or cutting coil springs...if you arent getting actual performance out of a coil over setup you are wasting your money.

Take that 4 link you listed above. Not knowing exactly what kit it is, I can't say anything about it one way or the other, but looking at it, I see links without heim joints, relying on bushings....which is fine, but it means that there is deflection that would not exist in a higher quality kit. I see a bunch of weld-on brackets, which are also fine, but its a big risk to take if you find out you are unhappy with the final product, every time you weld a bracket onto a rear axle, you are taking the chance of warping the tubes(well in reality you ARE warping the tubes) there is a good chance of ruining a housing if you change the setup multiple times because you weren't happy with the first setup you chose. I also see what look to be cheap shocks that are bound to give a less-than-ideal ride. Shocks are the one part of the suspension you really don't want to go cheap with.

What I am getting at here is that a cheap kit will cost you more in the end than buying a more expensive kit that you KNOW many people are happy with because you will be changing things out multiple times until you are happy with it. What happens if you buy that kit you listed and it rides like most cheap coilover kits ride...harsh and uncomfortable because of poor shock and spring choices? What happens if it has a tendency to bind in corners because not enough actual driving and testing has been done with it?

Hi @wicked93gs,
first to all thank you for your words.
Maybe I didn't use the correct words to express my self.
I know that the shocks must be for high quality, especially if we are looking to improve the dynamics of the car, be it for street, sport street or racing.
I agree with you in your comments and in fact I think like you.
My idea is to install a double wishbone in the front, double adjust high and hardness and a coliover system also for the rear.
I have to choose a shock system with good quality, adjustable in two positions, its price is justified.
The idea is no to exceed the price in a system that is more for drags or tracks.
Would the 4 link system be the most suitable?
Are there other systems that can also be valid for "sport street" use?
TIA

CrisNavarro · Aug 12, 2020

rbohm said:
wicked93gs is right on this, the kit you showed is cheap at best. you can mitigate a few issues indicated by swapping the rubber bushings at one end of each link bar with a heim joint. also while teh kit is probably quite cheap, you can again mitigate some of the issues by paying attention to details when installing it. measure several times, then cut once. take your time and get every thing right before you do any final welding. and there are ways to mitigate any axle housing warping by using several tack welds and jumping around as you weld. ultimately tying each tack weld together. there are also ways to support the axle housing to prevent warppage.

Hi rbohm,
thanks for your tipps.
If I finally buy this system or another, I will send the information to the welder.
TIA.

CrisNavarro · Aug 12, 2020

fostereast said:
Plus One for Street or Track 3 Link! Mike Maier also makes some very nice rear suspension mods

Thank you!
I am going to check this porducts.

CrisNavarro · Sep 19, 2020

I found a guy in Instagram that installed a Cobra IRS 03-04 rear suspension system in a 67 or 68, how do you find this idea?

CrisNavarro · Sep 20, 2020

CrisNavarro said:
I found a guy in Instagram that installed a Cobra IRS 03-04 rear suspension system in a 67 or 68, how do you find this idea?

Is not a 4 link suspension system, somebody knows about it?

wicked93gs · Sep 21, 2020

CrisNavarro said:
Is not a 4 link suspension system, somebody knows about it?

There was a guy on here about 10 years ago that did this swap, but I honestly can't remember any details.

If I were going to adapt the IRS from another car I think I would use the Miata cradle setup...its more compact and I have one with a 8.8" Ford carrier already mounted to it...regardless of which IRS setup you go with though all the swaps are pretty much one-off....think there is a writeup somewhere about adapting a Jag rear IRS too.

CrisNavarro · Sep 25, 2020

wicked93gs said:
There was a guy on here about 10 years ago that did this swap, but I honestly can't remember any details.

If I were going to adapt the IRS from another car I think I would use the Miata cradle setup...its more compact and I have one with a 8.8" Ford carrier already mounted to it...regardless of which IRS setup you go with though all the swaps are pretty much one-off....think there is a writeup somewhere about adapting a Jag rear IRS too.

wicked93gs
Thank you! Looks like this IRS CObra 03-04 is not the best option for a 8.8" Mountaineer...

CrisNavarro · Mar 14, 2021

wicked93gs said:
There was a guy on here about 10 years ago that did this swap, but I honestly can't remember any details.

If I were going to adapt the IRS from another car I think I would use the Miata cradle setup...its more compact and I have one with a 8.8" Ford carrier already mounted to it...regardless of which IRS setup you go with though all the swaps are pretty much one-off....think there is a writeup somewhere about adapting a Jag rear IRS too.

Hi wicked93gs!
Do you remember this guy with the IRS Cobra? Or maybe another example in this forum with some pics? Thank you in advance!

Blue_67Vert · Mar 15, 2021

There was an install kit sold by DVS Restorations. You had to source your own IRS. That was long ago.

CrisNavarro · Mar 15, 2021

Blue_67Vert said:
There was an install kit sold by DVS Restorations. You had to source your own IRS. That was long ago.

Thanks, I am going to fing it.

CrisNavarro · May 1, 2021

Finally somebody with this IRC Cobra 04;
https://www.facebook.com/View: https://www.facebook.com/2173467726246915/posts/2967536210173392/

jws66m · May 6, 2021

CrisNavarro said:
Hi!
My next step is to change the rear leaf springs suspensions system for a coilover system.
I saw some options on the internet, I think here are the best ones:
Street or Track
Global West
Total Control Products
Ridetech
But this brands are focused for high perfromance, like for track cars.
I am going to drive on streets and I am looking for something cheaper, some recommendation? Someone with experience to recommend 3 or 4 links?
What do you think about something like this?

Proper leafs, shocks and panhard will out perform just about any gimmick rear suspension. And I use gimmick in the sense that they work but don't really offer much value beyond whatever cool factor you are looking for. Personally I don't think the coolness is that big. I got my front and rear sus from maier in hayward, ca. I'll out handle just about anything. And that's not just old mustangs, I mean just about anything. When I finish with strenghening the body I'll do a skidpad test and will pull over 1g.

CrisNavarro · May 20, 2021

jws66m said:
Proper leafs, shocks and panhard will out perform just about any gimmick rear suspension. And I use gimmick in the sense that they work but don't really offer much value beyond whatever cool factor you are looking for. Personally I don't think the coolness is that big. I got my front and rear sus from maier in hayward, ca. I'll out handle just about anything. And that's not just old mustangs, I mean just about anything. When I finish with strenghening the body I'll do a skidpad test and will pull over 1g.

What kind of suspensions did you buy from Maier Racing?

jws66m · May 20, 2021

CrisNavarro said:
What kind of suspensions did you buy from Maier Racing?

I got a lot of stuff from them. In fact most of it got shipped out yesterday. They've really only have one set up now which is their top of the line set up. I got:

the complete ultimate front end, its got integra coilovers and the arms are on point, also putting my own brake mount tabs on the spindle to use S197 setups.
rear leafs (not all leafs are the same)
integra rear shocks
shock tower brace

still getting subframe connectors and the panhard rod for the rear.

I wasn't looking for a soft ride, I wanted full out race without having to go full custom. I feel the exotic rear setups out there don't offer any additional handling performance for the money. In fact I would dare say I will out handle anything that isn't a full custom chassis, and even then. But all this is for a 650hp mill with a 5 speed stick and full float 9". So control and a stiff body is #1.

If I was doing a spirited 300-400hp around town car I'd do reinforced stock with stiffer springs and bushings up front, leafs and bilsteins no panhard. still do tower brace and subframes.

If your'e interested I'm doing a blog of my build. Half to show others and half to record for my own needs (got to take a lot of pics so I know how to put it all back together). I'll let you know.

Rear '68 Coilover system, bye bye leaf springs...

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