Ok all good ideas Kruisr. Thank you very much! I’m going to try installing it the other way then, putting the top in first instead of the bottom as I was doing. Yes. It’s all stock shocks. I will consider disconnecting 1 side of the sway bar also if it’s still problematic or borrow a spring compressor. Thought this was going to be an hour job but I wasn’t so lucky. ok, well I’m off to dinner with the wifey now. It’s a balancing act as you all know. Lol I will pick this up again in a few days when i get the time. For now she’s gonna have to sit on the stands crippled. Thanks for your ideas! I’m going to start fresh and try those tips and get this done!Looking at the pics, if the shock is stock (length) and fully extended, you are getting some pretty good droop with the shocks disconnected.
If the axle doesn't articulate very well, try disconnecting one side of the sway bar.
I feel your pain Pete. Seems the so called hard jobs go nicely for me but the “easy” jobs always turn into a full blown abortion! Urrrrrrrr...Thats strange mine fell right out, and nothing works easy for me
I am going to try them install the other way, from top to bottom. Hope that works. If not then I will either disconnect one side of the bar or just get a spring compressor or a second set of hands to help me push this thing in while pushing down. Im busy these next few days so unfortunately have to wait to tackle this again. I will let you know what worked. Thanks for these ideas!If all four shocks are disconnected, I do not know what else would be restricting travel. If installing from the other direction does not work, unbolting the LCA one side at a time from the axle (and sway bar) could get you a lot of clearance, but I hope it does not come down to that.
Thanks 5L5.You gotta do one sode at a time. Unbolt shocks and quads and then pivot the rear so one side goes lower than the other. Put the Jack under one drum and have another under the pumpkin and drop it down. Might have to put some weight on it, but watch the center brake line and make sure you don’t pull it
Thanks for this....Yes, one side at a time putting the top of the spring in first. You do not have bolt the other side up, leave both sides unbolted and do one side at a time. With the spring pushed up in then push down real hard on the axle housing on the side you are doing and the spring should go in no problem. Also, just for a matter of interest I never use the isolators on the rear and have never had any issues at all.
I tried that with my wife but she wasn’t much help. LolIf you have someone that can step down on the end of the axle housing while you insert the spring it would be even easier.
Thanks Kruisr. I think this is going to work with the pry bar because that’s how I almost got it when I was doing it from the top but I can understand why doing it from the bottom now would work better with the pry bar. Ok, I look forward to getting this done. Hopefully today I can make the time. Thanks again!When you get the top aligned and started I used a couple tire irons or pry bars to lift up bottom of spring onto perch. They are good because of the pointed end can hook on the arm, ring of the coil or almost any edge. That can help with leverage it slip and shimmy in the spring in.
Be careful as you get close as there will be some stored energy and if it slips it could kick out at you.
This method worked perfectly! Thank you!!!!!When you get the top aligned and started I used a couple tire irons or pry bars to lift up bottom of spring onto perch. They are good because of the pointed end can hook on the arm, ring of the coil or almost any edge. That can help with leverage it slip and shimmy in the spring in.
Be careful as you get close as there will be some stored energy and if it slips it could kick out at you.
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