REAR DISC CONVERSION CABLE QUESTIONS....HELP....ASAP

I have a previous post about the process of doing a rear disc conversion on a 1990 GT and you guys have been great with info. Ive been tracking down everything I need. I am going to use the North Race Cars brackets, with the stock 1994 axle brake hardline, a 1994 2 port MC, a 3-2 port line conversion from Maximum Motorsports, probably a PV delete kit they have that is just 2 fittings for $19 or the regular PV plug for $20....So long story short Ive done alot of homework and found alot of great links, one of the best being...http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/ THIS IS A GREAT SITE.. Anyway I cannot find a FOR SURE answer on one question. the question is WILL THE STOCK 1994 GT E-BRAKE CABLES WORK ON MY 1990 GT WHEN DOING THIS CONVERSION? The guys at Maximum Motorsports says YES, North Race Cars say NO WAY they are different, Ford Racing isnt sure either....... Anyone been through this?:shrug:
 
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I was actually logining into the post to update the fact I figured everything out with the help of Steve. Same person that helped you, I first found him on ebay a while back but just yesterday was able to talk with him and figure everything out. He is sharp as a tack, really know his stuff, heres his email [email protected], he welcomes help to other Mustang enthaustiasts and has most parts available needed for the install for reasonable prices. However even if he was asking top dollar it would gladly pay it do to his great knowledge.:nice:
 
There is two sets of E brake cables for a fox disc conversion.
It's been so long i don't fully remember the differences, but i think one set goes around a little pulley.
I wouldn't get involved in buying 94+ cables, because there is a specific set made for this swap.
The sets are Ford Racing.

I know for a fact the answer and the differences is on stangnet somewhere, i just don't know exactly where.
 
And the answer is...............NO the 1994 - 1995 E-brake cables are different lengths for left and right, hince why the Ford part numbers are right. In order to have functioning e-brakes when doing the disc swap this needs to be done. Use 2 of the M-2809-A cables and 1 M-2810-A cable, and then the cable bracket has to be modified a bit, and the spring for the auto adjuster on the ebrake lever needs to be removed and the teeth of the gear need to be tack welded as outlined in Ford Racings M2003K kit. ...LOL... I am now a expert on Fox Body disc brake conversions after 12+ hours of reaserch and phone calls, and there are many ways to do it feel free to ask.....
 
And the answer is...............NO the 1994 - 1995 E-brake cables are different lengths for left and right, hince why the Ford part numbers are right. In order to have functioning e-brakes when doing the disc swap this needs to be done. Use 2 of the M-2809-A cables and 1 M-2810-A cable, and then the cable bracket has to be modified a bit, and the spring for the auto adjuster on the ebrake lever needs to be removed and the teeth of the gear need to be tack welded as outlined in Ford Racings M2003K kit. ...LOL... I am now a expert on Fox Body disc brake conversions after 12+ hours of reaserch and phone calls, and there are many ways to do it feel free to ask.....

I'll take you up on that! I want to do a 4 wheel 5 lug and disc brake conversion on my 90 lx 5.0. Here is what I think I'll need, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Front - 5-lug ( I don't need new axles?)
94-95 Spindles - (2) - 5 lugs, stock track width
Hubs - (2)
Hub Nut - (2)
Dust Cap - (2)
Dust Shields - (2)

Front - Brakes
94+ 10.8" Rotors - (2)
'99+ GT/V6 PBR calipers - (2) - Bigger and better than the 94 single pistons
'99+ Gt/V6 PBR caliper brackets - (2) - Need to be modified to fit?
spindle to caliper bracket bolts - (4)
SS Brake lines for conversion - () - Where do I get these and are they side specific?

Rear - 5 lug

Rear - Brakes

On the rear I'm confused. On the site it says they normally sell the sn95 rear assemblies as a whole only. So if I were to get one, I would still need to get the ranger drivers side axles and the north race cars brackets/lines? Those brackets are expensive as hell. If I go with a Pony R 17x9 wheel with 46.0mm Offset and 6.8" backspacing, I would not need the brackets as it would move the wheels back in right?


Thank you thank you thank you, this is so confusing, if I had the money I'd buy the kit but I don't so I have to rough it :)
 
I'll take you up on that! I want to do a 4 wheel 5 lug and disc brake conversion on my 90 lx 5.0. Here is what I think I'll need, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Front - 5-lug ( I don't need new axles?)
94-95 Spindles - (2) - 5 lugs, stock track width
Hubs - (2)
Hub Nut - (2)
Dust Cap - (2)
Dust Shields - (2)

Front - Brakes
94+ 10.8" Rotors - (2)
'99+ GT/V6 PBR calipers - (2) - Bigger and better than the 94 single pistons
'99+ Gt/V6 PBR caliper brackets - (2) - Need to be modified to fit?
spindle to caliper bracket bolts - (4)
SS Brake lines for conversion - () - Where do I get these and are they side specific?

Rear - 5 lug

Rear - Brakes

On the rear I'm confused. On the site it says they normally sell the sn95 rear assemblies as a whole only. So if I were to get one, I would still need to get the ranger drivers side axles and the north race cars brackets/lines? Those brackets are expensive as hell. If I go with a Pony R 17x9 wheel with 46.0mm Offset and 6.8" backspacing, I would not need the brackets as it would move the wheels back in right?


Thank you thank you thank you, this is so confusing, if I had the money I'd buy the kit but I don't so I have to rough it :)


The first question is why are you upgrading? Do you want better brakes? Or do you just want to run 5 lug wheels? ...:shrug: ,,,.FIGURE THE DETAILS OF THOSE QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU START, IT WILL DEPENDED WHAT ALL YOU NEED TO DO AND HOW MUCH MONEY NEEDS TO BE SPENT. The cheapest 5 - lug conversion is Ranger rear axles and drums and SVO rotors, and can be done for $200 or less. There is no need to go spend big dollars and the entire kit when it can be done much more effectivley but doing it indivudually. Yes you will have to modify the caliper bracket some, just a slight bit of grinding nothing major. I have that setup on my car, you will know what to grind when you place the caliper bracket on the spindle. As far as the lines go you want to contact Maximum Motorsports. They have stainless steel braided lines that are a direct bolt on for that conversion. Also instead of using the spacer on the ball joint for the spindle, use SN95 ball joints, they will press right in and it is a much cleaner install.....As far as rear goes you can use the 94 rear end but because of the ABS rings on the axle it is appx 1.75" wider than a fox axle thus limiting you to being able to run a wide tire without modifying the fender. If you plan on running rear disc you will be spending quite a few dollars because all of you main hydraulics and rear lines have to be changed. Even just doing the front you are probably going to want to upgrade to the newer 94-95 master cylinder, gut the proportioning valve, do a 3-2 port master cylinder conversion and install an adjustable prop valve on the fire wall. Doing all of that will make your brakes adjustable to the point where it will stop on a dime and put your face in the dash. I did not at first, and just did the front SN95 with the PBR calipers and the brakes still felt kinda ****ty....the reason the stock 87-93 master is not enough for the dual piston calipers. The North Race Cars brackets are ONLY needed to run the rear disc calipers on the fox axle because the backing plate spacing is different since there is no ABS ring on either side which makes each axle 3/4" of an inch shorter than the SN95 axles. If you plan on putting any power to the ground I would recommend upgrading to Moser 5 lug axles, let me know if you want to run rear discs and plan on buying axles because I have a better piece of info for you. Like I said there are many ways to upgrade brakes and change to 5 lug on a fox, and it can be done for between $200 and $2,500, decide what your purpose is and what your budget looks like and go from there. This is the biggest piece of advice I can give anyone when doing this swap.:nice:
 
wow, ok.

Well I want 5 lug for the wheel options. And I figured since I was doing it I'd might as well do the disc brakes too. But I never even thought about upgrading later to discs instead of right now. Thats probably a better idea for my budget ;).

I really could just get the Pony R's in 4 lug and not do any of this but I do want to improve the car and I'd hate to spend all that money on wheels and tires and still be 4 lug.

For now I should probably just do the SN95 brakes/5 lug up front, and stick with 5 lug/drums in the back. I still need to do an sn95 brake booster though correct? So for the front, the parts stay the same still.

So for the rear it's easier?

83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end, or '86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side axles (29-5/32")

And then the 9" drums from those cars is what I want?

Also keep in mind I've never done my brakes before and I don't want to die...is this going to be too much for me to handle? I'm not an idiot I just haven't had much hands on time.
 
You would want 2 passanger side Ranger axles and 9" drums to match. You can physically use the stock master cylinder (MC) with the PBR calipers like I did at first but the brakes feel about the same as stock even though you have bigger calipers. The reason is because there is just simply not enough volume of fluid or pressure from the stock MC to work the PBR's like the need. The reason the SN95 conversion is the most desireable is because you can run any 5 lug wheel made due to the spindle shaft height being so short. You should be able to run the 5 lug pony's on the stock spindles just using the SVO front rotors. If you can afford to upgrade the entire hydraulic system now or feel comfertable than I would just keep it basic until then. You will not see much benefit if any from doing the PBR calipers on those SN95 spindles unless you upgrade the MC, gut the stock PV and install an adjustable PV on the firewall. I would recommend saving your money and doing that all at once since the Ranger axles, SVO rotors and Ranger drums are so damn cheap and will allow you to run the wheels you want. Brakes are a needed important saftey item and you dont want to be cheap when it comes to modifying them.:nice:
 
Thanks for your help.

I'm torn between going the easy route and just buying 4 lug 17x8 ponies and going the some what harder, somewhat smarter route of going to 5 lug.

I only really need 2 new tires right now, maybe I'll do the rear 5 lug conversion now and wait a little while longer into the summer and do the front.

What am I looking at price wise for the 2 axles and drums, I'm looking on car-part and they want ~50 a piece at a place near me for the axles.

Also what does "laid" mean, he told me 55$ laid?
 
Ya, you are right, they doubled the price. Sucks.

To the junkyards then ;-)

Ok, possibly my last question...Let's say I do the 5 lug/drum swap in the rear.
a) Do I need big offsets for wheels or will any 17x9 be ok?
b) In the future if I got to a disc setup, how will that affect my offset requirements.

What I'm getting at is, I don't want to buy wheels for the drum setup and then be in a position where I can't upgrade the brakes to disc without getting new wheels (again).
 
Last and final question, I found directions on removing and replacing the axle, seems like a piece of cake. What I'm worried about is the brake drums. I'm gonna go ahead and just buy new 9" brake drums for the Ranger. This is a stupid question but if I go and buy a replacement drum from autozone or something, is that ready to bolt on or will I need to dis assemble the brake. I've never done this before, I watched a video on Taurus drum brakes, seems a little confusing but easy enough however if I could avoid doing all of that I'd feel more comfortable.

Long story short, if I walk over to autozone and buy 2 new 9" drums for a Ranger, can I go home and bolt them up or am I going to have to take it apart. Also since I will obviously be removing the brake lines at some point does that introduce air into the system requiring me to bleed the brakes or no?

Thank you so much guys and I'm sorry for Hijacking this thread. I promise I'll take pictures and do a write up so we won't have to go through this again.