Ok, So I decide to swap my stock 3.08 gears out for a set of 3.73's. I pulled off the old ring and pinion gears. Pulled the pinion bearing off, moved the shim onto the new pinion and reinstalled with the old carrier shims. I then "painted" the ring gears and checked where they where making contact. The backlash was over specs so I replaced carrier shims. Right now I have the backlash set correctly @ .009 of backlash. My problem seems to be as follows. When checking teeth wear on the drive side with a load the teeth on the ring gear touches on the top toe side "inside" of the ring gear. On Coast it marks on the top heel "outer" part of the ring gear. Now, all the books say to lower pinion shim. So I miked the original it was .027. I went to a .020 shim---small improvement. went to .015 down to .010 to shimless. I still am riding way to far out of spec to call it close enough. I've talked to a few local shops. Most say they do swaps, as I ask them questions they usually stop me and tell me they just use the old ones and don't have a problem. I realize that if your getting paid book time this would probably be how I would do it as well. However, I would like it done right and as far out as it's sitting I'm sure a tooth would break eventually. I have cheked the pinion bearing, the race it sets on and all other mating surfaces. Everything is ok inside the housing. I.E. not loose. I am totally lost?? The gear is made by Ford Racing Products. Could the machine cuts on the gear be the problem?
Rear-End specialists--Need some help
- Thread starter my$100project
- Start date
It's kind of hard to picture everything.
Have you tried to change the pinion shims any more? When you changed them, did it get better or worse?
Have you tried to change the pinion shims any more? When you changed them, did it get better or worse?
-rear end setup is a PITA because when you change the pinion, it effects the carrier, and vice versa. Maby you need to re-check the carrier shims and backlash measurments. Not much room for error.
ok here's what I have. It's kind of hard to explain. I guess what I'm trying to say is during drive the wear mark is in the upper right (inside) hand side of the tooth. on coast it's in the upper left hand side (outer)of the tooth. when I decreased shim it improved slightly riding from a small mark to a longer mark. However it is still not even close to centered where it should be. I'm not sure that backlash could be the problem???? The left (driver) side of the carrier original shim was .283 and the original right (passenger) side shim was .268. I think this is very close to what it was maybe off be .001 or .002. Anyway's I had to increase the driver to .298 and passenger to around .265. This gave be a backlash of .009. The spes is .008 to .014... When I checked the specs with the original shims it was at around .016...I have tried incresing and decreasing just about every possible shim, just to play with the numbers and see what happens, even though according to the manual and my wear marks it says less shim is required.
Hmmm, so you need the pinion to go deeper, but shims only move it away from the pinion. Strange. Do you have the pinion torqued down when checking these numbers, this can make a difference.
- I am no expert in rear end builds, but I have R&R'd some ring and pinions and a few times had to change shims but I never had your issue before, so I am sorry but I dont' know if I can help much.
- I am no expert in rear end builds, but I have R&R'd some ring and pinions and a few times had to change shims but I never had your issue before, so I am sorry but I dont' know if I can help much.
yes pinion is torqued. (there is absolutely NO wobble or looseness in the pinion. I am torquing without using the crush sleeve as I don't want to ruin it before having the correct shim in. The preload I have been using is right around 23 In. LBS to turn the pinion installed. That is should be more than enough to pull the pinion back far enough. Has anyone on this site had a problem with the Ford Racing Gears not teething up??
Edit: Also I've contacted Ford Racing tech help. The Tech said 99.9% of the time the old shim pinion and carrier shims are reused and work perfectly.
... LOL, What a laugh. Maybe when your on book time and want to get the job done in the 3.9 Hours you get paid for.
Edit: Also I've contacted Ford Racing tech help. The Tech said 99.9% of the time the old shim pinion and carrier shims are reused and work perfectly.
... LOL, What a laugh. Maybe when your on book time and want to get the job done in the 3.9 Hours you get paid for.
Are they FRPP gears or another brand? I know some folks who have had a hard time getting other brands of gears to get the proper wear patterns. Generally with the FRPP gears you can reuse the same shim and be right where you want to with the wear pattern.
Correct, They are Ford Racing Gears.
I'm not at the vehicle at this point. So I can't simply take a quick look. I'm thinking what I will probably do is pull the whole rear dif and take it to Sandlers Rear-End specilists to get the wear pattern. Does anyone know what kind of project this is?
I obviously already have the rear-end gutted and the inner axles are out.
I'm not at the vehicle at this point. So I can't simply take a quick look. I'm thinking what I will probably do is pull the whole rear dif and take it to Sandlers Rear-End specilists to get the wear pattern. Does anyone know what kind of project this is?
I obviously already have the rear-end gutted and the inner axles are out.
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