rear gear install question

we just normally use an impact gun to get it to start taking up the slack. the hard part in crushing the sleeve is the initial collapse of it, once it starts to get crushed it is easier to do, so we used an impact gun on mine to do it and then used a torque wrench the rest of the way.

Good suggestions above. Here's what I did to get the crush collar crushed: I reached in from the passenger rear wheel well, and pulled on a breaker bar length ratchet. If you get it up in the air far enough (on jackstands please), then it is not so tough. Actually, I worked on it with a friend, with one under the car just to pull the ratchet back and reload it for each 1/4 turn, as well as to check the preload. Then the other guy could just stay put and focus on pulling on the ratchet.

BTW, if you don't already have a breaker bar length 1/2" drive ratchet, now would be an excellent time to get one. It will be far easier to use than a breaker bar, and I can't imagine doing it with a smaller ratchet.

Good luck, and enjoy the soothingly pleasant aroma of friction modifier!

I also used an impact gun. I put the largest screwdriver I had through one of the bolt holes and braced it against the housing. My cheap old impact gun was too weak and did nothing . I bought a 710 ft lb gun and that worked fine. I had nothing that was hardened to use in place of the screwdriver.

Disclaimer: Most don't realize that regular sockets and non-hardened tools can explode when used with impact tools. Always use impact sockets, prybars, and chisels for the proper application and not substitute screwdrivers and chrome sockets if you value your sight.

GRGT1994 said:

Good luck, and enjoy the soothingly pleasant aroma of friction modifier!

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I know that smell! When I picked it up the whole interior of my lightning smelled like it. Then I went to use it and noticed it has an intact foil seal. Wow is that stuff strong.

stprorolla49 said:

how long do you think it will take me and my buddy to take out the old gears, and put in the new ones???

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I you are not doing the trac loc, just the gears, then maybe you can get it done in a day, possibly less if you or your buddy have experience and work efficiently.

I did the trac loc too, so I just planned on one day to tear down, and another to rebuild. But then again, gear were my first mod, so I was really green and took lots longer than those of you who know more about working on cars.

Remember, you will need to pull and press the pinion bearing (to get the shim off too). And that might mean a trip to a shop. So figure in some road and down time too.

here is a good overall Tech link: http://www.mycoolmustang.homestead.com/techarticles.html

Here are a couple good links off this page for the gear installs:
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
http://home.flash.net/~ivc1/cobra/solgear.html (preferred)

Search mo dingo's posts too. He has posted lots of good stuff on gear installs.

Make sure you have the fitting to pull the abs sensors. I think that screw is a reverse torx.

Oh ya, plan on the abs sensors being permenantly rusted in, and needing to smash them out.

This write up is specific to the shiming of the pinion and carrier. I have this saved to a folder and a printed copy. It is very specific info and includes all the math and examples. Again this has no actual remove or install steps for the job but is a big step in the job. My shims came out perfrect using this procedure.

Determining proper pinion depth isn’t difficult if you know how to do the math. That’s exactly what we’re going to show you, using our 8.8 Ford axle as an example. Get a calculator and follow along.
Step One
Find the diameter of the differential side bearing race (dial calipers are great for this). Ours
measured 3.063 inches. Divide this number in half to find the bearing race diameter:
3.063" ÷ 2 = 1.531"
Step Two
Measure the distance between the main bearing cap mounting surface and bearing bore as in Photo 13. Since we are working with a 1.531 inch bearing race diameter, we used a two inch extension on the Tavia pinion setting tool to get a complete reading (the indicator needle will depress a half-inch, putting us right on the money). Our indicator read .465 inch.  Step Three
Subtract the bearing bore reading from the length
of the pinion tool extension. This is the actual axle centerline. The equation for our 8.8’s centerline is:
2.000" – .465" = 1.535"
Step Four
Next, subtract the bearing race diameter from Step One from the axle centerline. This is the amount the axle housing is off-center. Our axle was off-center by .004 inch, as shown:
1.535" – 1.531" = .004"
Step Five
Now you need to measure the distance from the axle
housing centerline to the face of the pinion gear. Install the pinion gear as shown in Photo 14. Since the pinion depth marked on our Superior pinion gear is 2.552 inches, we used a three inch extension on the pinion setting tool. Measure the distance  between the pinion face and the axle centerline. In our case, the measurement was .416 inch.
Step Six
Subtract the reading from Step Five from the length of the pinion tool extension, as shown in our example:
3.000" – .416" = 2.584"
Next, subtract the off-center figure from Step Four from your answer. This will give you the actual pinion depth:
2.584" – .004" = 2.580"
Step Seven
To find out how much you need to shim the pinion gear, subtract the depth marked on the pinion gear from the actual pinion depth you just found:
2.580" – 2.552" = .028"
Thus, we need a .028 inch pinion shim pack.
See, that wasn’t so bad!

Buy NEW gears, not used.