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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

rear main seal removal tips please

  • Thread starter Thread starter joeficsit
  • Start date Start date Nov 16, 2006
J

joeficsit

New Member
Dec 15, 2003
16
0
1
Brownsville, TX
Nov 16, 2006
#1
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #1
I did a search and tried some of the suggestions on here. I read that you have to "pinch" the rms from the block side, which i did. unfortunately, about 1/2" of the seal back (the part you can see) came off. leaving the crank seal and the block side in place. I thought i would then try it on a different spot.. same thing. I'm afraid that if i continue i will end up with seal chunks left around the crank and up against the block.

I also read here someone had drilled a tiny hole in the seal and inserted some screws in and used a hammer to get it out. any ideas? is the original ford seal all rubber or is it partially metal like the fel-pro one? it looks to be all rubber but i can see how the "screw trick" could work on the metal lined one.

please help me out as i'm stuck with the car on jackstands and am unable to move it.
 

dragnazz5.0

My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
Nov 19, 2005
815
5
18
mooresville, nc
Nov 16, 2006
#2
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #2
it should be part metal like the felpro one.....put a couple small self tapping screws in it and use a slide hammer to pull it out.
 

88-GT

Member
Oct 8, 2004
183
2
18
Nov 16, 2006
#3
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #3
Yea the screw method works great, just be extremely careful around the crankshaft, any nicks in it can make for a serious headache.
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Nov 16, 2006
#4
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #4
if you don't have a seal that has grooves in it, there is a great chance the drill bit will slide off and nic your crank. In this case, use a very fine punch to put a nice indentation for the drill bit to start on.
 
J

joeficsit

New Member
Dec 15, 2003
16
0
1
Brownsville, TX
Nov 16, 2006
#5
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #5
so would i aim for the center of the RMS or towards the outer edge? under the rubber part that came off there is a piece of metal that is now exposed

So the factory RMS has metal in it? if the entire RMS is 3/16" wide, the metal piece that is now exposed is in the center, about 1/16" wide, does this come out with the RMS? it does not look like it should and the Fel-Pro Replacement one does not have it, insead the Fel-Pro one has metal only on the outer edge and seems to surround this piece of metal.

I'll try and get a digital pic.

Mabey i should go to the stealership to see what an original looks like (hopefully it will be exactly what is in the car and not a "replacement")

thanks again for the reply?
 

4dStang

Banned
Oct 23, 2002
718
1
0
Near St Louis, Missouri
Nov 16, 2006
#6
  • Nov 16, 2006
  • #6
On my 93, I just used a pick (not picture) to lift it out using five or so area's. The seal simply goes in with a rubber mallet. Super simple.
CB
 

Blk91stang

Member
Jan 3, 2003
607
0
16
North Brunswick, NJ
Nov 17, 2006
#7
  • Nov 17, 2006
  • #7
4dStang said:
On my 93, I just used a pick (not picture) to lift it out using five or so area's. The seal simply goes in with a rubber mallet. Super simple.
CB
Click to expand...

Rubber Mallet? You HAVE to make sure you put the seal on the correct way AND BE SURE you dont let the inside of the seal roll as you put it on or you will never seal correctly. Also I was able to put the seal on without using anything but my fingers.

If you need advice on re-installing a seal, pm me, I have some pretty good techniques which will make it slide on with ease and seal great the first time!

I suggest what the others said by drilling a small hole in the seal in the center between both edges. From here thread a screw in there, put vise grips on it and pull it out. Make sure not to touch the block or crank with the drill bit.
 
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