Is a tool needed to remove and install this seal, or can it just be done.
What about the tps sensor on the drivers side on the transmission.
What about the tps sensor on the drivers side on the transmission.
A tool isn't needed but makes life easier. Removing with a flat-head screwdriver is easy enough. I had trouble with the install, but I used a paint can lid over the seal to get it started, then it went on easy.
Don't hit the seal too hard in any one place, you may bend it.
Don't hit the seal too hard in any one place, you may bend it.
I had a very hard time getting the rear main out. What I ended up doing (VERY carefully) was putting a couple of course threaded screws (drywall screws) into the metal body of the seal, gripping them with vise grips and slowly wiggling/prying it out. The trick was to get the screws in straight and not too deep to not scratch the important surfaces. It's a risky practice but it was the only way for my to get it out. Installing it was a matter of tapping it very gently all around in with a flat punch, it took 30 seconds.
Thread title:
Are you talking about the seal at the back of the trans (where the DS slides into)? That is not the rear main seal (more like a trans output shaft seal).
The sensor on the side of the trans is the not a TPS. To remove the trans range sensor, you simply undo the electrical connector and then remove the two bolts holding the TR to the trans (IIRC).
When you reinstall the TR, be sure the shifter is in neutral. Then align the index marks on the sensor.
You can also ohm out your old sensor if you need to. Did you find a new one for not too much money (I'm curious myself).
Are you talking about the seal at the back of the trans (where the DS slides into)? That is not the rear main seal (more like a trans output shaft seal).
The sensor on the side of the trans is the not a TPS. To remove the trans range sensor, you simply undo the electrical connector and then remove the two bolts holding the TR to the trans (IIRC).
When you reinstall the TR, be sure the shifter is in neutral. Then align the index marks on the sensor.
You can also ohm out your old sensor if you need to. Did you find a new one for not too much money (I'm curious myself).
I used a small flat head screw driver and worked it around the seal. I got it worked out a little then really laid into the seal and pushed it into itself in one spot. I then just pried it out. Took like 2min.
To install the new one I used a big socket. I got one that roughly matched the inner part that went into the tail shaft. I put a light coat of RTV and tapped it into the trans.
The hardest part is the rear driveshaft removal.
To install the new one I used a big socket. I got one that roughly matched the inner part that went into the tail shaft. I put a light coat of RTV and tapped it into the trans.
The hardest part is the rear driveshaft removal.
When pulling the old seal out (rear main seal) did you guys use the stroker for leverage..
Where would I place the flat head screw driver to pull that seal out, on the inside diameter or on the outside diameter in respect to the seal itself?
Where would I place the flat head screw driver to pull that seal out, on the inside diameter or on the outside diameter in respect to the seal itself?
OK, I thought you were talking about the seal at the end of the trans. were the driveshaft connects/goes into the trans.
Totaly different seal...the rear main seal.
I still used a flatheat screwdriver to take one out, did this on my old factory shortblock in the mustang and also in my old 90 fullsize bronco with a 302. You need to be 100x's more carefull with the rear main removing it. I just kind of worked it out without fear of tearing up the seal...110% focus on NOT touching the crank at all.
If you can manage to keep the rear main you removed in some kind of good shape you can use the old one to help you install the new one. Fit the new rear main seal by hand and get it started. Then use the old rear main only reversed in that the wide parts of the rear mains (both old and new back to back) and you can tap on the old seal to seat the new one. The old seal takes the abuse/damage and seats the new one.
Totaly different seal...the rear main seal.
I still used a flatheat screwdriver to take one out, did this on my old factory shortblock in the mustang and also in my old 90 fullsize bronco with a 302. You need to be 100x's more carefull with the rear main removing it. I just kind of worked it out without fear of tearing up the seal...110% focus on NOT touching the crank at all.
If you can manage to keep the rear main you removed in some kind of good shape you can use the old one to help you install the new one. Fit the new rear main seal by hand and get it started. Then use the old rear main only reversed in that the wide parts of the rear mains (both old and new back to back) and you can tap on the old seal to seat the new one. The old seal takes the abuse/damage and seats the new one.