Rear wheel bearing install help

sharp2377

Member
May 22, 2012
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I just finished installing my 3.73 gears and trac lok rebuild. While I have axles out mine as well put wheel bearings in right? Well I'm trying to install my second set because the first ones broke after trying to beat them in with a seal driver. I went to autozone and bought the all in one repair bearings (DRP5707) because the shafts have a tiny bit of a groove in them so why not. Again, even with these bearings, I can't get them to go in all the way. Any tips or ideas? I greased them and going back and forth between the seal driver and using the old bearing. I'm going to break these bearings too. One of the oil seals springs already fell out, is it shot now? Help!
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You shouldn't have to freeze the timken bearings. They are fairly easy to install (I used a large socket). I bought a set of those all-in-one bearings but also bought a set of the timkens and seals when I changed my bearings. I ended up using the timkens. I could see from the size of the all-in-ones and the space available in the axle tube that they would not seat completely. Good luck.
 
In my case, the previous owner had attempted a rear disk swap with the wrong parts and had the axles sticking out about an inch extra on both sides. Of course I didn't notice until tossing bearings on the freeway at high rpm's. To make matters worse replaced bearings and never noticed the protrusion that 1st time... (long story) so ended up repeating the whole failure issue once again. Then investigating further noticed something wasn't quite right. The ends of the axle tubes were not looking so pretty either with the bearings only half engaging the diameter. So got custom axles (and correct plates for calipers) and new bearings thinking I was good to go....(cheap bearings). Once again around 3 months later on the freeway I started feeling the tell tale vibrations once again. Yup you guessed it... bearings for the 3rd time!!! That's why good bearings are so important (in a nutshell)! BTW I had mine pressed on (axles) at a shop all three times for what it's worth. Avoid hammering on any form of a bearing. Trust me I'm a machinist by trade.
 
In my case, the previous owner had attempted a rear disk swap with the wrong parts and had the axles sticking out about an inch extra on both sides. Of course I didn't notice until tossing bearings on the freeway at high rpm's. To make matters worse replaced bearings and never noticed the protrusion that 1st time... (long story) so ended up repeating the whole failure issue once again. Then investigating further noticed something wasn't quite right. The ends of the axle tubes were not looking so pretty either with the bearings only half engaging the diameter. So got custom axles (and correct plates for calipers) and new bearings thinking I was good to go....(cheap bearings). Once again around 3 months later on the freeway I started feeling the tell tale vibrations once again. Yup you guessed it... bearings for the 3rd time!!! That's why good bearings are so important (in a nutshell)! BTW I had mine pressed on (axles) at a shop all three times for what it's worth. Avoid hammering on any form of a bearing. Trust me I'm a machinist by trade.
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So what do you use to pull the old bearings when they are pressed in? I would assume a bearing puller slide hammer, but I've never done it before. I 'm considering doing a complete overhaul of a second 8.8 that I have, putting in all GOOD stuff.

The Temkin Bearings are now on my list of parts - great tips.

Not to jack this thread, but im interested in hearing more details about why you decided on custom axles (old tubes chewed up)- you mentiond end of axle tubes not looking good, and bearings only half engaging the diameter - were they too small in dia? My reason for asking is that my second 8.8 is a 94 unit going into a Fox. under disc conversion specs. using stck length axles. Wondering what setup the other owner used on yours to screw things up so badly????

STILL FOLLOWING this original thread bearing issue. Waiting to see how it turns out...

Thanks,

Dwayne
 
Pretty sure they came out fairly easily or perhaps I used a puller, honestly I can't remember ( old age? ) I do recall cleaning up the openings and whatever other damage was done. That's a really good question as to which unit they used. I believe the originals were 4-lug, hence the replacement. For all I know it is the original housing. It was a real hoaky job to say the least. Worse was the wiring issues I later discovered.... You might want too contact Richard at northracecars.com Think the email is [email protected] or go to the sight and look for a phone number. I talked to him about my problem and he helped getting it squared away. And regarding Autozone... I try and avoid it like the plague. Has a lot of bad customer service at too many stores over the years.
 
Slide hammer with a wheel bearing puller attachment free rental with refundable deposit at AutoZone.
Most came out easily for me, one put up a hell of a fight!
I just kept banging til it came out.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. After having to remove the gears to get a big socket and extensions and beating the hell out of the duralast ones it was able to pop out. I bought new timken ones, measured them and the timken was slightly smaller. Went right in! I never learn my lesson. You just can't cut corners!