Rebuild time on the LX need advise

[stevesLX]

I have a 89 LX that I am going to star tearing into tonight after work. I am going to pull the motor tomorrw morning. I have blowby thru the exhaust and after a compression test a few weeks ago my highest cylinder was 160 and 2 of my cylinders were 130. The guy that owned it before me ran a Zex nitrous dry kit on it thru the intake 125 shot. He told me that the blowby started after the second shot. Talking to him he says my compression on that motor should be close to 200. I am not sure at what ratio. So with that being said. I am not rich by any means and my only intent by pulling the motor to work on it is to get rid of my oil consumption and my blow by problem and to have a car that I can drive back and forth to work without haveing to smoke people out. I will take it to the track here and there but I basically want it back to where it was before the idiot that owned it before me ran nitrous thru it and blew the rings. I only have around 750.00 to spend. That money has to cover the machine shop work on it also. The way the motor sits now is as follows:

302 .30 over
Edelbrock plenum and intake
75MM BBK TB
65CFM MAF
claims to have flat top forged pistons
cast iron ported and polished heads(step below GT40's)
303F cam
24# injectors
underdrive pulley
High volume oil pump
K&N air intake
Aluminum drive shaft
World Class T5
4.10 gear

 

[Rick 91GT]

With the F-cam I would honest be surprised if it pump over 180 with the motor hot, cold test will be less.

Do a leakdown test before you pull the motor apart, this will tell you if it is the rings or it could be the heads, valve seals, valve job etc...

$750 will be extremly tight, depends on what is wrong and how much you can do yourself.

 

[txstang84]

Just a thought...

You mentioned that two of the cylinders showed 130 compared to the rest at 160. Those cylinders weren't side by side were they (possible leaking head gasket)? Also, when you noticed the two lowest holes, did you try shooting some light oil into them? If the compression goes up, suspect rings, if it stays the same, suspect valves or seats.


If you're in good with a machinist, and you're willing to do alot of work yourself like Rick mentioned, you can get it back to non-smoker within the confines of your budget...just be ready for those damn nickle and dime expenses like possible broken fasteners, unintentional screwed up gaskets, rtv, beer...I mean..umm..you get the idea.

Gaskets = $80 (possibly less)
rtv = $5
rings = depends on type, but hopefully less than $100-possibly less.
cylinder head work (if needed)=budget for at least $250-$300
hardware = $50 or less...if you need the wierd water pump stud bolts, Advance sells them for $6 (Motormite part number 23744). eBay seller "Bolt Locker" sells some decent little stainless bolt kits for $25 + shipping that have served me well on 4 different engine builds ranging from stock to blown 465rwhp builds. They also sell grade 8.2 head bolt kits that are sufficient and inexpensive for mild to moderate mills
tools = $20-$125 depending on what you need...if anything. Or you can rent them from your local parts store most likely

also keep in mind that's not counting ANY machining of the block-which hopefully you won't need...

...unless I screwed up my math, that puts you at just over $600...and that's not counting possible "lack of need" spending.

Hope this helps...good luck!