Rebuilt a steering box?

skywalker · Jul 2, 2005

Was wondeirng if anyone had rebuilt their steering box?

Where did you get the kit, how much, and how hard? Keep in mind that I'm a fairly competent mechanic (read: helicopter mechanic) so as long there isn't a ginormous learning curve, I should be able to handle it.

66moneypit · Jul 2, 2005

I didn't rebuild mine....but I did buy a Flaming River 16:1 steering box and it definitely tightens the steering up.... If you are set on rebuilding it, I think Virginia Mustang offers a rebuild kit. If they don't they'd be able to point you in the right direction. 540-896-2695. Good luck to you.

skywalker · Jul 2, 2005

Well, I was looking at that and the roller idler and a few other upgrades as an alternative to a rack and pinion.

The new flaming river unit costs upwards of $400 and a rebuild kit is in the area of $100. If it isn't an insane process and will achieve tight steering, then I'm all for it.

66moneypit · Jul 2, 2005

I was really impressed with the FR box....it is very responsive....and WELL worth the money. I got mine for $300 brand new on ebay. $320 shipped. I thought about buying a rebuilt one...it would be more fun to rebuild it...but I didn't have the time or the skill to do it. And then I got to think how frustrating it would be to have slack in it 2-3 years from now because of the same worn out technology. So I went with the FR box....either way....good luck with it

skywalker · Jul 2, 2005

skill is not my issue, I'm just wondering if it'll perform like crap or...

BullittFB · Jul 2, 2005

Hey moneypit....how many turns from lock to lock on your FR box?

rbohm · Jul 3, 2005

rebuilding a steering box is fairly easy, in fact as a chopper mechanic you likely have a similar worm and sector gear in the system somewhere that you have rebuilt before(i havent studied helecopters as much as other stuff so my facts may be off some). you will need a dial type torque wrench and a way to attach it to the steering shaft to measure the preload on the gears as you adjust the box, but overall if the box itself is in decent shape, then a rebuild will make it feel new again.

Mosse · Jul 3, 2005

I have FR box, I´d say it´s 4 turns lock to lock. ... but actually you can´t compare it to rack and pinion, cause wheels turn a lot more...

skywalker · Jul 3, 2005

Mosse said:
I have FR box, I´d say it´s 4 turns lock to lock. ... but actually you can´t compare it to rack and pinion, cause wheels turn a lot more...

You have the 19:1 FR box. There is a 16:1 version.

66moneypit · Jul 3, 2005

BullittFB said:
Hey moneypit....how many turns from lock to lock on your FR box?

I will double check the turns and get back to you...it's definitely not 4 though...
I have the 16:1 version.

Maybe some of you old timers can tell me...since I wasn't around back then...my Dad says that alot of the cars from that era didn't have the best steering coming from the FACTORY.... I was wondering if most the manual steering boxes had slack in them from the get go back then....

skywalker · Jul 3, 2005

should be 3.

Hack · Jul 3, 2005

skywalker said:
skill is not my issue, I'm just wondering if it'll perform like crap or...

I bought a rebuilt stock steering box about 4 years ago. It works way better than the old one, but there is still slop in it. I've tightened it up about every other year, too. It works, but your car will not compare to a modern car in steering. So I guess it depends on how well you want the car to work.

BullittFB · Jul 3, 2005

So the 19:1 is about 4 turns and the 16:1 about three? I don't understand anything about those ratios. What do they mean? I know that the R&P on my 02 gives me three turns lock to lock and is extremely responsive, but the steering box on my 73 feels like steering a boat. I'm restoring a 68 FB and would like a steering pretty much like the 02, and have considered a R&P, but if I can avoid the cost of converting to R&P with a steering box that can give me the same response I will.
Thanks in advance guys.

skywalker · Jul 3, 2005

BullittFB said:
So the 19:1 is about 4 turns and the 16:1 about three? I don't understand anything about those ratios. What do they mean? I know that the R&P on my 02 gives me three turns lock to lock and is extremely responsive, but the steering box on my 73 feels like steering a boat. I'm restoring a 68 FB and would like a steering pretty much like the 02, and have considered a R&P, but if I can avoid the cost of converting to R&P with a steering box that can give me the same response I will.
Thanks in advance guys.

I was looking at going R&P (and probably will some time in the future, when I have the time and money to fab something similar to hakan's...or buy one of his.) But for now I'm looking at going with a 16:1 new flaming river box with a roller quick steer idler. From what I'm hearing, that should provide me pretty much with the same response, though the effort will still be painful (manual steering.) It's okay though, I have popeye forearms.

65ShelbyClone · Jul 3, 2005

I think, at least for the time being, that going with a tighter box is the better choice. All the R&P kits I've seen are too expensive and complicated. I'm going to stay with the box on mine, which is already 16:1 since the car had P/S.

skywalker · Jul 3, 2005

Manual R&Ps aren't to bad (hella better than the power steering companions) but I have some other suspension ideas I'd like to try out for now.

stanger53 · Jul 4, 2005

If the main parts inside your steering box are in decent shape, and you know how to properly rebuild and adjust the box, a rebuilt box is as good as a new one. Parts made in the USA are better built than the Argentine replacement parts. The new repro steering boxes only have a one year warranty. You can get a better warranty on a rebuilt.

The power steering/GT steering boxes (16:1) have a 4 turn ratio. The manual steering boxes (19:1) have a 5 turn ratio. This is the box itself. If you are getting less, then the steering stops are the problem.

The Quick Steer Kit consists of a longer Pitman Arm and Idler Arm. The extra length raises the ratio of the linkage. It can only be used on 1965-1966 Mustangs with manual steering linkage. Adding a quick steer idler alone would throw off the steering geometry.

Remember that using an "roller" bearing setup on the idler arm will remove a great deal of the return-to-center action after coming out of a corner.

skywalker · Jul 4, 2005

stanger53 said:
The Quick Steer Kit consists of a longer Pitman Arm and Idler Arm. The extra length raises the ratio of the linkage. It can only be used on 1965-1966 Mustangs with manual steering linkage. Adding a quick steer idler alone would throw off the steering geometry.

Aware.

stanger53 said:
Remember that using an "roller" bearing setup on the idler arm will remove a great deal of the return-to-center action after coming out of a corner.

As has been discussed several times here on stang net, that can be over come with increased caster.

66moneypit · Jul 4, 2005

BullittFB said:
Hey moneypit....how many turns from lock to lock on your FR box?

I checked BullittFB and it's not quite three turns lock to lock....

BullittFB · Jul 5, 2005

Damn, less than three turns from lock to lock??? That´s pretty good, I think that´s the way I´m going to go.
Thanks for the info Moneypit.

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