Recommend me some brakes

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WhiteHeat306

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Dec 8, 2005

#1

• Dec 8, 2005

• #1

I am looking to upgrade my pads and rotors up front. I'm not interested in doing a 5 lug swap or anything. I don't want to spend a fortune but what are some good pad/rotor combos? I also don't know much about the whole drilled/slotted rotors. Thanks.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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#2

• Dec 8, 2005

• #2

What is your budget (A ball park idea)?

 

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WhiteHeat306

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#3

• Dec 8, 2005

• #3

I have no idea what stuff costs. Maybe like $500? Is that too low?

 

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PRO50SC

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#4

• Dec 8, 2005

• #4

HISSIN50 said:

What is your budget (A ball park idea)?

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Not only that, what are your plans for the car? I run the factory stuff and have never had a problem stopping at the track. (or anywhere else for that matter) Why spend the extra money?

 

srothfuss

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#5

• Dec 8, 2005

• #5

Scoll down a little and you will see my thoughts on brakes.... It should help a lot. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=598172

BTW: Baer makes a 4 lug 12" front only kit that I have been considering...

 

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WhiteHeat306

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#6

• Dec 8, 2005

• #6

srothfuss said:

Scoll down a little and you will see my thoughts on brakes.... It should help a lot. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=598172

BTW: Baer makes a 4 lug 12" front only kit that I have been considering...

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Ahh good info.

Basically I just need some new rotors and pads, and was considering upgrading them. I have never even been to the track, and don't have plans to, in fact I never even really drive above 80. Is it even worth upgrading from stock? I also wanted to know if there are any quality low-dusting pads. I have white Cobra rims and I have to clean the brake dust off every day which gets annoying.

 

srothfuss

Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row

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#7

• Dec 8, 2005

• #7

WhiteHeat306 said:

Ahh good info..

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Thanks!

WhiteHeat306 said:

Is it even worth upgrading from stock? .

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Probably not in your case... If you have warped a rotor from heavey stopping, maybe but it doesn't sound like it.

WhiteHeat306 said:

I also wanted to know if there are any quality low-dusting pads.annoying.

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Cermaic pads from any autoparts store. Not metalic, but Cermaic pads... Almost zero brake dust.

 

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WhiteHeat306

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#8

• Dec 8, 2005

• #8

srothfuss said:

Thanks!



Probably not in your case... If you have warped a rotor from heavey stopping, maybe but it doesn't sound like it.



Cermaic pads from any autoparts store. Not metalic, but Cermaic pads... Almost zero brake dust.

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Hey man I appreciate the info.

 

Jaswir

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#9

• Dec 8, 2005

• #9

i recently did my front brakes and rotors.. i did just the standard rotors from autozone,, and then bought the best pads they had... i paid like 220 dollars to my rotors and pads and all new bearings... i wanted something better but mine were warped and didnt have time to order parts... but they work good and never had a stoping problems

 

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WhiteHeat306

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#10

• Dec 8, 2005

• #10

I guess SOMETHING on the car should be left stock lol

 

jammer84_03

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#11

• Dec 8, 2005

• #11

cross drilled really helps the bite, and if you get pads...take a look at some performance items by hawk...they are pretty good...and not to expensive for carbon metalic....if you can stand the brake dust

 

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WhiteHeat306

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#12

• Dec 8, 2005

• #12

jammer84_03 said:

cross drilled really helps the bite, and if you get pads...take a look at some performance items by hawk...they are pretty good...and not to expensive for carbon metalic....if you can stand the brake dust

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Haha I can't have dust man I am sick of cleaning my rims every day. Thanks though.

 

tunedin302

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#13

• Dec 8, 2005

• #13

Before I went 5-lug, I had some Brembo cross-drilled (slotting wasn't big then) rotors (about $150 pr) and some Hawk street pads (about $70). They were great brakes and I would highly suggest you take a look at them. My only suggestion is that remember the cross-drilled is really for the "bling" effect as they are prone to cracking at the drilled areas. IMO, a better rotor now available is the slotted. They will dissapate the heat well and not crack. Leave the rear drums as is since there is little they do compared to the front and little way to upgrade them absent a disc conversion. I loved the brakes on my car before the 5 lug swap but did the swap b/c I wanted different wheels. Good luck

EDIT: If you get the street Hawk pads then the brake dust is not bad at all ... pretty normal. The race version will kill you on the dust.

 

jammer84_03

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#14

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• #14

agreed on the street pads. with the cross dilled again though, it keeps the pad fresh...it may lessen the life but you are always cool and keeps the temp range on the street pads.

 

tunedin302

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#15

• Dec 8, 2005

• #15

jammer84_03 said:

agreed on the street pads. with the cross dilled again though, it keeps the pad fresh...it may lessen the life but you are always cool and keeps the temp range on the street pads.

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Absolutely however, the slotted accomplish the same without the risk of cracking. Keep in mind, I had the cross drilled for many many years on my car and they were great. I went with them because they were the best design at the time. Brake designs have progressed and from my research I think slotted only is the best for all around performance. ....... of course now I run a slotted and cross-drilled rotor

 

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WhiteHeat306

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#16

• Dec 8, 2005

• #16

Decisions, decisions

 

soontobefastfox

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#17

• Dec 9, 2005

• #17

I went with powerslot rotors with hawk pads in the front and maximum motorsports rear drum kit in. It cost me about 500 all together. It was a noticable difference. I'm gonna eventually convert to 5 lug when the engine is done...someday

 

srothfuss

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#18

• Dec 9, 2005

• #18

Ceramic pads from any parts store are just as good as the hawk stuff for a little less.