Recommendations for touring/roadrace type suspension?

OK.... on the cheap. hhmmmmmm

Well if it were me... (lol)

The full length sub frames by MM are about a hundred give or take a few, and they make a very noticeable diff in the overall driving: initial turn in, overall stability mid-corner, etc... great value imho.

Get a good set of CC plates and an alignment (take it to someone who does performance-street alignments, not just any old shop.... you want it done right, not just "thats close enough..."

I would get good lower controll arms long before I would worry about the uppers. The lowers can be had for about 150 I think* for a nice set.

The sn95 spindles are a direct bolt in (they are part of the 2300K brake kit) the only diff is the strut needs about 1" of extra travel, but on mine it has never been an issue on either brand of struts that Ive run. This is also good in that if you ever find a set of cobra / bullit / mach brakes for cheap, they will then bolt right on, and give you WAAAAYYY better stopping power for a good price. (but you do have to run 5lug 17s)

And speaking of 5 lug 17s, just fyi... when you mention that alott of people freak at the cost. But I have bought 2 sets of 17s now (tri-bars and bullits) the bullits were less than 600 with very near new tires, and the tribars were only 100 a wheel, but no tires. The tires were just under 100 each. So the cost is not thaaaat much, and man let me tell ya, if youve never driven a car with like 15s one day and 17s the next.... WHAT A DIFF. Talk about vast improvement overnight.

If you want a good set of shocks/struts for a reasonable price the tokiko sports are the same quality as their 5way adjustables, just they are fixed on the #3 setting. (which a good installer I know, told me that every set of 5 ways he has ever done were set on #3, and they never came back to get changed...) But they are like 1/2 the price of the 5 ways.

OH, BTW ... "C" springs, refer to motorsport springs which come in letter designations depending on the firmness and the "C" is a popular aftermarket upgrade. But imho they are too soft in the front (about 600lb/in as I recall) resulting in less than stellar performance when pushed hard, and too stiff in back resulting in a somewhat jarring ride around town. Again just my op.

The MM supersport springs are good, imho. I have heard some people who are very happy with eibachs, and others who were not. Same of KB stuff, some love, others not so much. Guess it just depends... but again the ones who dont like them may not have a balanced system, they may have one piece from company A and the next from company Z, and they might not work well together... hard to say.

You could run most of a MM kit, but sub in the tikikos instead of the bilsteins, and it would save several hundred dollars, and is still do-able in stages: chassis brace kit, then lower controll arms and cc plates, then later the springs and shocks. Just a thought...

Besides if you set your heart on one type of system, you can hold out till you find a good deal on the various pieces of that kit.... you dont have to step up and buy it new. Hell most of us have a piece or two lying around here and there... just watch the classifieds / craigslist / ebay... etc. You might be surprised how low cost you can get a good kit.

Well, good luck... and let us know what you decide, so we can help keep the eye out for good prices for ya.

Dave-

I agree with DD, however I think bilstein is of higher quality than tokico. here, lemme link you a bit on tstrutst for mustangs, from what I saw, teh bilsetins might be a bit on the soft side for performance, but in your case you will probably appreciate the comfort level.
(a presentation by koni)
http://www.koni-na.com/presentations/mustang/

btw, teh motorsport C springs are made by eibach. just like the motorsport lifters are made by crane, as well as all the "303" series cams (B303, E303, F303, X303, Z303, etc.) eibach is a good company for the money, but I've heard (second and third hand) that they sag after a few years. although I have no firsthand expereince with it. just so you are aware.

only problem with the v8 springs on a 4 is, it will probly raise up the front unless you cut them if only i still had my stock front springs still but i do not.

Kenny Brown and Maximum Motorsports both have information on their sites helping to lay it out step by step. For the Kenny Brown info goto-
http://www.kennybrown.com/kb101_plan.cfm

Maximum Motorsports explains it as follows-

Decide on a goal. What are you going to use the car for? Is it a daily driver, a dual purpose car, or a dedicated racer? Once you’ve decided on your goal, you can move towards it in either small or large steps.

Small steps involve purchasing individual components or packages. We recommend packages in the following order:
1st. Chassis stiffness (Chassis Brace Package).
2nd. Improving the rear suspension (Rear Grip Package or Torque-arm Suspension System).
3rd. Improving the front suspension (Front Grip Package or K-Member Package).
4th. Fine-tuning your car’s handling with swaybars, bushings, tires, wheels, brakes, etc.

So if you want a starting point. Put a Chasis support kit on the car. Then a good shock/strut/spring package with some caster/camber plates. That will get you going.

Do it yourself as I did and save a ton. Eibach springs, poly bushings front and rear, Strange 10 way shocks, subframe connectors, Cobra/SVO front brakes-rear disc with the Cadillac calipers, camber plates,I did the panard bar but you don't need it right away. Just do the above and you will have a whole different car, I have many laps around Pacific raceways with my setup. I made my own strut tower brace also. Don't do the solid rack bushings or adjustable upper rear control arms with hard rod ends on a street car (did that and had to remove them because of the noise).

Dan

ever been timed at pacific? just woundering and do you know how fast you go around turn 1? 84gt350

I can only go into turn 1 flat out if the track and tires are warm, how fast??? I shift into 5th at 6200 rpm about 1/3 of the way down the straight and gain about 400 more rpm before I have to lift. I have 3:73 gears. Have had a couple of Porsche driver friends ride with me and were freaked out going that fast with the top down. I would have to time one of my in car tapes to confirm my lap times but I think they were about 1:49. Didn't get to go this year because I couldn't shift after major shoulder surgery, see you there next year.

Dan

i was just wondering cuz i had an opertunity to rent a bmw race car and were at redline in 5th gear speedo says 135. i think my best time was 1:46.1 or somthing i hope to run a few races up there with my mustang next year i think ill run faster then the bmw race car since i ran faster at portland in my mustang over the race car but i need to stop talking this is not a thread about what im planing on doing next year