Refilling my ac

And I dont remember which side is which. But you are only supposed to fill from one side. I think its the side on the driver side.

This depends on whether you're filling the system with the car on or off. If the car is on you can use the low pressure side (Driver side) port. If you are doing it with the car off you have to use the high pressure side (Passenger side near the upper radiator hose). You also need the correct equipment for whichever you use. Most will find it far more simple to use the low pressure side with the kit from the auto part store.
- Justin
 
There are numerous tutorials on the internet. I consider myself decently versed in AC work but generally will not post on the refrigerant threads (I will post on the wiring side of things) because this is one thing you don't attempt half-arshed. We dont wanna see someone do cryogenic testing on themselves.

For purposes of threads like this (everyone has a different level of experience, some less than others), let's not mention ever using the high side for filling. ONLY use the low side. With the compressor engaged, the low side generally sees around 50 PSI or less, and the high side can see 300+ PSI. Accidents on the high side can be fatal.



In general, you guys need to listen to Al and the other smart gents on this thread. Test the low/high pressure switches first. And to do this, one needs the manifold gauges mentioned above. They've become so cheap in recent years that anyone doing AC work should have them. It's stupid to open the system and find that it was an issue on the electrical side.


Again, not to come off like a jerk but this isnt like installing a CAI. A little research up front saves time in the end (unless someone just gets lucky) and it can save injury.

I'll see if I can find a pic of the LPCS.
 
As was mentioned, you need to vacuum the system for around 30 minutes to remove any non-condensibles (air/moisture). You should vacuum it to around 28" of vacuum in order to vaporize the water in the system. This is of course, assuming the system is empty at the time. Since you saw 50psi, you should jumper the harness that's plugged into the low pressure sensor on the accumulator to see if it's bad (more than likely, that's your problem). It's only two wires, so it should be pretty easy to do. I'm not sure where to begin on the high pressure sensor if that one's bad, since I'm currently about an hour away from my service manual.
 
if anyone knows how to jump the compressor please chime in. :D


You don't jump the compressor. See my 1st post up top it explains where the AC cycling switch is (don't have a picture but a search should find you one). Or just follow the passenger side AC line to the firewall it will lead you to it. You remove the electrical connection and get a single piece of electrical wire with 2 female electrical connectors and install on the 2 prongs (male prongs) where the switch came off. Turn on the AC if it kicks on replace the switch.

Al
 
the problem was thats since the system was completely empty the compressor was not kicking on. I hotwired the compressor like a few people said above. I just jumped it with a wire inside the low pressure switch.

But I do believe that there is either a leak or the pressure switch has gone bad. The ac kicks on but the compressor is still cycling intermittently. Either the pressure switch has gone bad OR there is a leak. Hope that helps. let me know if you need more info on how i did it. If you guys want i can post a detailed descrip of how i did it. :D
 
If the compressor is still kicking on, but goes off immediatly your system is not full. When you hook up a guage to the low side what pressure is it at? Is the air comming out cold or just colder than before? Is your highspeed fan kicking on when you put the A/C on? The fan should kick on no matter how much pressure you have in the system, even if there is none, but that will give you an indication of whether or not your pressure switch is working.
 
One word of caution about the "stop-leak" style recharge kits. You should jump the low pressure switch before adding this stuff. It has some sort of greasy goo that fills tiny leaks and it cures fairly quick. If you add a whole can and its not enough to trigger your low pressure switch the stuff can cure without being circulated. This could prevent the goo from reaching your leak or clog the line up. Be sure to have extra cans ready OR just jump the switch as a precaution.

My Cobra leaks so slow that I have to recharge every other Spring. A leak that slow is impossible to find so I just buy the cans on sale in the fall and wait. I'm not sure if the stop-leak works because I add one of those each time. Maybe I'll skip it and see if theres a diff.

Advance Auto has a nice gauge/fill kit for 20 bucks. It will make a measurement then you can pull the trigger to add. Even my girlfriend can use it (while I enjoy an ice cold Ultra).

45psi sounds a little high to me? I think my gauge's "green zone" is 20-30. All A/C systems have a high pressure switch as well so you're protected to an extent.
 
With a leak that slow why dont you use the dye and glasses, It will show even if it is a tiny pin hole (your really going to have to inspect it) more than likely it's an O ring or rings. 45 psi is very high on the low side, should be max 30 psi. Good info there fords4me. My thoughts are the low pressure switch is faulty or your expanshion valve is faulty.

One word of caution about the "stop-leak" style recharge kits. You should jump the low pressure switch before adding this stuff. It has some sort of greasy goo that fills tiny leaks and it cures fairly quick. If you add a whole can and its not enough to trigger your low pressure switch the stuff can cure without being circulated. This could prevent the goo from reaching your leak or clog the line up. Be sure to have extra cans ready OR just jump the switch as a precaution.

My Cobra leaks so slow that I have to recharge every other Spring. A leak that slow is impossible to find so I just buy the cans on sale in the fall and wait. I'm not sure if the stop-leak works because I add one of those each time. Maybe I'll skip it and see if theres a diff.

Advance Auto has a nice gauge/fill kit for 20 bucks. It will make a measurement then you can pull the trigger to add. Even my girlfriend can use it (while I enjoy an ice cold Ultra).

45psi sounds a little high to me? I think my gauge's "green zone" is 20-30. All A/C systems have a high pressure switch as well so you're protected to an extent.
 
I add dye each time and to this day, I havn't seen even a hint of green. You would think if it leaks down to 5psi over and over the dye would accumulate somewhere.

I would def. get a good gauge pomag. At around 10psi my low pressure switch would kick the compressor on intermittently for about 1 second cycles. You will likely need another whole can after that to get to 20psi. Maybe two.
 
Hey Fords4ME did you check your compressor housing? I know there have been leaks from cracks in the housing. It's a shot in the dark but put your hand below the compressor and feel for oil or corrosion.

When your compressor kicks on every second or two it is reading low pressure, more than likely around 2 to 5 psi, a large can or r134 will fill it completly up and still have a little to spare. Also the guage that comes with the A/C recharge can is not accurate at all, but if you go to the high side of the green safe zone, and slightly into the yellow it's right around 30 psi, I had this confirmed with a A/C shop psi gauge, make sure you have your A/C on max and the high speed blower on while filling, otherwise your reading will be inaccurate. (I'm sure you already knew this).

I add dye each time and to this day, I havn't seen even a hint of green. You would think if it leaks down to 5psi over and over the dye would accumulate somewhere.

I would def. get a good gauge pomag. At around 10psi my low pressure switch would kick the compressor on intermittently for about 1 second cycles. You will likely need another whole can after that to get to 20psi. Maybe two.
 
Yep I've been all over the thing and nothing found. I'll just have to wait till it gets worse. 10 bucks every 2 years is barely worth troubleshooting anymore. ha

One small can seems to net about 8-10 psi for me. The large ones are hard to find because people without gauges will likely overfill.

Mine works fine. Good luck pomag.
 
Does anybody has any pics of all these switches, you are talking about??:shrug:


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