Removal of stock H-pipe...yikes!!!

vvansant · Jan 7, 2007

Hey all, I have spent the past 2 days replacing the stock exhaust system on my 96 GT. I successfully dropped the stock mufflers and put on a MAC catback system. I also purchased an X-pipe to replace the stock H-pipe but am having a hell of a time getting it off. Actually, I'm down to 2 bolts - the ones that connect to the passenger side exhaust manifold. Talk about a pain in the ass, there is no real good way to reach the one on the outside, and the one on the inside is so rusty that now my socket just spins.

I figure I have 2 options, either cut off the nuts and/or bolts using a Dremmel tool (hopefully not) or disconnect the manifold from the engine. The problem with option 2 is that I can't reach the bottom 3 bolts of the header, not enough room for my hand, let alone a wrench. The Ford service manual says I have to lift the engine to get it out, surely not! I'm just curious if anyone else has had these heartburns doing this type of job and what they recommend. Thanks!

COramprat · Jan 7, 2007

Pulling header bolts are out of the question unless you want to remove the crossmember....

Do you have some type of rust "breaker-upper"? PBlaster is pretty good stuff. Spray it down and let it sit over night. Also I had to get a socket that was a medium dish so that it would not hit the wheel well like the deep dish does and clears the header stud so that you can get a bite on the nut. I'm betting that is your problem with the socket just spinning. You have a regular socket and it is bottoming out on the stud.

vvansant · Jan 7, 2007

Good point, it could be that the sockets are too shallow.

Just out of curiousity, what is the crossmember and what is involved in that? The reason I ask is because I'm always thinking I want to replace my oil pan gasket sometime.

Saleen4971 · Jan 7, 2007

i woudl try and use a 6 point deep impact socket after letting penetrating oil settle in.

impact sockets fleck MUCH MUCH less than typical chrome sockets. more flex will let it slip easier.

if that doesnt work, try heating up the nut with a torch (MAPP gas, plumbers torch, etc.)

fastfive_ogt · Jan 7, 2007

Um goog luck

Dragstr05 · Jan 7, 2007

Last time I swapped my mid pipe, I didnt have access to the tools that I thought I needed, and ended up using a 1/2" shallow socket (1/2" drive) with 1/2" drive universal joint (not ball swivel, I'm talking about the ones that can bend to like 90*). That seemed to work quite well.

If you rounded off the nut, then your in a little trouble.

COramprat · Jan 7, 2007

vvansant said:
Good point, it could be that the sockets are too shallow.

Just out of curiousity, what is the crossmember and what is involved in that? The reason I ask is because I'm always thinking I want to replace my oil pan gasket sometime.

My bad...meant to say K-member. You would have to drop it to replace the oil pan gasket. If you want to go that route then the pipe swap would go right along. It won't be easy though.

SaleenGT2001 · Jan 7, 2007

get a 3/8 extension, 3/8 universal swivel, a good breaker bar and a deep 6 pt socket. its a PITA to remove, but once you do it it is much easier the next time.

i had to drop my x pipe at mustang week last year under the autozone walkway in the rain with VERY few tools.

BurningRubber · Jan 7, 2007

Its not hard to do, just tough crawling under the car when its on jacks if you arent a midget.

I suggest PB blaster, a few extensions (of different length, you kind of put together a puzzle) a swivel socket (or universal joint), and some sort of breaker bar. I used the post of a bike seat for a breaker bar, and it worked damn fine.

Just dont strip the bolts or youll spend awhile looking for something to take them off.

vvansant · Jan 7, 2007

Thanks for the good tips folks! I think my efforts tomorrow will be in trying to find deeper socket (I think those are 18mm nuts) and come up with a better breaker bar solution, my vice grips on the end of the socket wrench didn't work so good.

Also, back to this K-member suggestion...what exactly does that involve? If I understand correctly, this drops the front wheels doesn't it?

Also, just curious but how are you guys replacing the headers anyways? This is the last "bottleneck" in my exhaust system and will probably want to tackle that soon as well.

Dusstbuster · Jan 7, 2007

vvansant said:
Thanks for the good tips folks! I think my efforts tomorrow will be in trying to find deeper socket (I think those are 18mm nuts) and come up with a better breaker bar solution, my vice grips on the end of the socket wrench didn't work so good.

Also, back to this K-member suggestion...what exactly does that involve? If I understand correctly, this drops the front wheels doesn't it?

Also, just curious but how are you guys replacing the headers anyways? This is the last "bottleneck" in my exhaust system and will probably want to tackle that soon as well.

Header swapping involves dropping the entire front suspension basically. The K-member is the big metal thing that gets in the way of any and all header oriented stuff. It's a pig pain IMO and is the reason i'm never doing any header mods on my car.

SaleenGT2001 · Jan 8, 2007

the k member is the large metal piece that supports the engine.

EDGE Motorsport · Jan 8, 2007

i feel you pain dude, it took me AGES to get that bolt off, mine were siezed SOLID. I even took it to an exhaust shop and they tried blasting/heating it with the oxy-acetalene and even that wouldnt get it loose, then the guy broke his snap-on socket clean in half.

I bought the car home and spent the whole weekend soaking the bolts in PlusGas (like pblaster) every hour or so.. on Sunday evening the bolt came loose with a socket, u joint, extension, breaker bar type setup.....

It's now on my list of things that I dont want to be doing again !!!!!

Good luck though, when it comes loose its a great feeling

EDGE

DTNODYA · Jan 8, 2007

EDGE Motorsport said:
i feel you pain dude, it took me AGES to get that bolt off, mine were siezed SOLID. I even took it to an exhaust shop and they tried blasting/heating it with the oxy-acetalene and even that wouldnt get it loose, then the guy broke his snap-on socket clean in half.

I bought the car home and spent the whole weekend soaking the bolts in PlusGas (like pblaster) every hour or so.. on Sunday evening the bolt came loose with a socket, u joint, extension, breaker bar type setup.....

It's now on my list of things that I dont want to be doing again !!!!!

Good luck though, when it comes loose its a great feeling

EDGE

Thats exactly how my experience went. When they finally came loose, I cussed them out!

Try some Seafoam Deep Creep to loosen the bolt. Lately, I've been using it and I like it better than PB or WD ...

topless98gt · Jan 8, 2007

PB Blaster, extension, and universal swivel FTW! That's all it took me.

The first time I took my H pipe off was a *****. Every time after that, swent as smooth as coconut oil on a hot babe's toosh.

EDGE Motorsport · Jan 8, 2007

topless98gt said:
smooth as coconut oil on a hot babe's toosh.

EDGE

Mossberg · Jan 8, 2007

I had to take mine to an exhaust shop. Nothing I had would break loose the passenger side bolts. The shop finally broke it loose with an impact. I then drove home with open headers to finish the install.

SaleenGT2001 · Jan 8, 2007

Mossberg said:
I then drove home with open headers to finish the install.

wow, hope it wasnt a long drive. you can warp a valve easily driving like that.

Mossberg · Jan 8, 2007

Only a mile luckily

topless98gt · Jan 8, 2007

SaleenGT2001 said:
wow, hope it wasnt a long drive. you can warp a valve easily driving like that.

Can just running an O/R X dumped (with no mufflers) cause a warped valve? If so, then can a warped valve cause an oil leak?

Removal of stock H-pipe...yikes!!!

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