Removal of stock H-pipe...yikes!!!
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topless98gt
Adhesive Feces
It was only for a week. I pulled off my Flowmasters as soon as I ordered my MagnaPacks. It was the loudest exhaust I had ever heard in my life. So much drone, so deep...at idle it was AMAZING, but when I got on it, it was just really annoying. I could definitely tell that there was a little bit more upper end torque. Maybe I was just imagining that though.you should be fine, you'll just be deaf very soon.
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stangGT97
New Member
+1 for the Deepcreep and heating method. 6pt 18mm deepsocket is what I used to get my midpipe off, along with a pipe and some serious elbow grease.
The lower nut on the passenger's side manifold stud that attaches the h-pipe to the manifold is a HUGE PITA. You will need to remove the O2 sensor to even get a shot at the nut. It is a very tight space up there. The size of the nut is 18mm. A 3/8's drive shallow socket is too short because of the stud's length and the deep well socket is too long because of the firewall. Use an 18mm socket, 1/2 inch drive, with a 1/2 inch drive swivel. Worked/fit perfectly. Once it's broke loose (we used an impact wrench 'cause I was done foolin' around after working several hours with the 3/8's drive stuff and breaking a Craftsman 3/8's drive swivel by hand, lol) you can only back off the nut a few turns before the swivel backs into the K-member so you need to take it off by then. Then use a regular 18mm, 3/8 inch drive, with swivel to take the nut off. Also, don't forget the PB Blaster, . All other nuts/bolts are easy to get to
forum155pl
New Member
if you already fubard the nut you can go to sears and get one of those nut remover deals, they work well... its just a socket with a bunch of one way teeth on it...
mustangkid05
New Member
- Mar 10, 2006
- 199
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mac sent me the h pipe with the 2 bracket things idk what they are called on the wrong way so i had to drill them in lol
topless98gt
Adhesive Feces
Mach1Run
New Member
I learned my lesson after doing the X on my GT in the garage. Went down the the little shop down the street and they let me put the mach on the lift and the mechanic got his tools and loosened them then hand tightened them back so i could get them off at home.
Skidzz
Tinkerbell
+1 I did the install myself, and taking the old mid-pipe off is much harder than putting the new one on. After hours of trial and error, these were the tools that I used as well, and it was still a HUGE PITA.
Mine ended up broke off aswell after just torching it out. My setup now with washers and a backing plate seems to work great. I had a guy at a shop do it for me, though I ended up having to help since it was such a PITA. Felt kinda bad for paying only $40 for the job.
Twista
Active Member
my buddy heated mine up about 5 times till it was amber color and still has problems getting the bolts off. Chicago salty winter sure made it a bitch, but after acouple more tries he got the bitch off!
the98stang
Active Member
Soak those bastards with PB blaster and let them sit over night. Then use a socket and some long extensions to get up there. You'll need a swivel too.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who experienced this problem. Unfortunately, I never was able to get them off myself - I simply ran out of tools to try. However, I learned that aggrevation easily overrides pride and I took it up to the local Car-X shop, they burned them off for me and I now have everything on and tightened up.
One other thing that really irritated me, I had one heck of a time finding an auto parts or hardware store that carried the 18mm medium or deep-well socket. Places like Home Depot only carry the odd metric sizes (I guess their trying to adhere to the SAE standard). I finally found it at Sears, but they wanted like $7 for it, hell for only $20 I was able to but the whole metric set!!! Anyways, I now have an abundant supply of deep well sockets, lol!
I wish the story ended here, but it doesn't. Now keep in mind that this whole job started because of the MIL and a failing emissions inspection. Now that I have the new exhaust system on, I am still throwing codes. Currently, I am throwing a P0156 (O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction on Bank 2 Sensor 2) and another one that simply reads "H02S21 - sensor indicates lean". Not much on the net about how to troubleshoot this code, but if I had to guess it means one of three things: faulty O2 sensor, exhaust leak, or bad injector. Thoughts?
One other thing that really irritated me, I had one heck of a time finding an auto parts or hardware store that carried the 18mm medium or deep-well socket. Places like Home Depot only carry the odd metric sizes (I guess their trying to adhere to the SAE standard). I finally found it at Sears, but they wanted like $7 for it, hell for only $20 I was able to but the whole metric set!!! Anyways, I now have an abundant supply of deep well sockets, lol!
I wish the story ended here, but it doesn't. Now keep in mind that this whole job started because of the MIL and a failing emissions inspection. Now that I have the new exhaust system on, I am still throwing codes. Currently, I am throwing a P0156 (O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction on Bank 2 Sensor 2) and another one that simply reads "H02S21 - sensor indicates lean". Not much on the net about how to troubleshoot this code, but if I had to guess it means one of three things: faulty O2 sensor, exhaust leak, or bad injector. Thoughts?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=65957&group_ID=11918&
this is what you need if the nut is rounded off. these sockets are made to remove rounded off nuts and bolts. I have a set of these in deep and shallow but it cost me over 600 bucks.. To me these sets are worth it because I do this for a living and they make me money but for you sears sells a craftsman set that is much cheaper and i bet they will work just fine.. Just make sure you get the deep set.
Another thing you may want to buy if PB blaster does not loosen the rust is a small MAPP gas torch.. you can get one at home depot and they run about 40 bucks for a basic one, this will allow you to heat the nut and then they should come right off..
Anybody that wants to work on cars in a rust belt state really needs to buy a MAPP gas torch, people that live in the south or southwest don't understand how rusted cars get up here, stuff just don't want to come off..
For example, when I talk to other ford techs from the south they are shocked when I tell them that you can't get the rotors off of 99 percent of 4X4 F-150's and expeditions without breaking them off. Down there they slide right off with a few light hammer taps.
The first code could be caused by a damaged sensor or damaged wirring or a poor connection to the cat monitor ( 02 sensor) on the drivers side exhaust pipe.. this sensor is mounted after the cats. Do you have a MIL elim on that sensor? if you do then the problem could be that. If you don't then check the wires runing to the sensor and make sure you did not damage them.
The second code is most likely caused by a exhaust leak from the passenger side manifold to x-pipe connection.
this is what you need if the nut is rounded off. these sockets are made to remove rounded off nuts and bolts. I have a set of these in deep and shallow but it cost me over 600 bucks.. To me these sets are worth it because I do this for a living and they make me money but for you sears sells a craftsman set that is much cheaper and i bet they will work just fine.. Just make sure you get the deep set.
Another thing you may want to buy if PB blaster does not loosen the rust is a small MAPP gas torch.. you can get one at home depot and they run about 40 bucks for a basic one, this will allow you to heat the nut and then they should come right off..
Anybody that wants to work on cars in a rust belt state really needs to buy a MAPP gas torch, people that live in the south or southwest don't understand how rusted cars get up here, stuff just don't want to come off..
For example, when I talk to other ford techs from the south they are shocked when I tell them that you can't get the rotors off of 99 percent of 4X4 F-150's and expeditions without breaking them off. Down there they slide right off with a few light hammer taps.
The first code could be caused by a damaged sensor or damaged wirring or a poor connection to the cat monitor ( 02 sensor) on the drivers side exhaust pipe.. this sensor is mounted after the cats. Do you have a MIL elim on that sensor? if you do then the problem could be that. If you don't then check the wires runing to the sensor and make sure you did not damage them.
The second code is most likely caused by a exhaust leak from the passenger side manifold to x-pipe connection.
98GTfromGA
Founding Member
bullitt784
Founding Member
Bolt on 5.0
Founding Member
If you stripped the bolt trying to remove it get a twist socket set. I got m9ine from sears for like $40 and it works great for rounded fasteners. When I changed my h pipe I broke that pass side bolt and had to heat and drill it out. Good luck man rusty exhausts suck.
98GTfromGA
Founding Member
I haven't stripped it yet, I have been trying like hell to get that mofo off there, I got the top one on the driver's side to move some but the bottom one is not budging I'm going to try my bigger 1/2" breaker bar hopefully that will do the trick and I loaded them both up with PB Blaster
the passenger side lower nut is by far the worst time ive ever had with a single nut in my entire lifetime of doing anything with cars.
i spend 70$ in miscellaneous tools to finally get the ****er off. the nut extractor set from sears is like 40$ and then i got a bunch of random length swivel head extensions. after getting the extractor on and a nice turn, it loosened up and came out with finger effort.
the other 3 nuts are relatively easy to get to.
getting the rest of the big ass stock H off is relatively easy as well, gotta finagle it off the studs with good amount of effort. installing the new midpipes are easy, do the downtubes first, then install the crossover section (x/h). leave all the nuts loose and tighten everything slowly to make sure your exhaust pipes (be it side pipes or rear exit) are staying straight. my sidepipes are caddywompus now because i tightened everything at once and didnt check, and now theres a GSX in my garage on jackstands so i cant get under the car to fix them.
i spend 70$ in miscellaneous tools to finally get the ****er off. the nut extractor set from sears is like 40$ and then i got a bunch of random length swivel head extensions. after getting the extractor on and a nice turn, it loosened up and came out with finger effort.
the other 3 nuts are relatively easy to get to.
getting the rest of the big ass stock H off is relatively easy as well, gotta finagle it off the studs with good amount of effort. installing the new midpipes are easy, do the downtubes first, then install the crossover section (x/h). leave all the nuts loose and tighten everything slowly to make sure your exhaust pipes (be it side pipes or rear exit) are staying straight. my sidepipes are caddywompus now because i tightened everything at once and didnt check, and now theres a GSX in my garage on jackstands so i cant get under the car to fix them.
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