• Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

removing head studs

  • Thread starter Thread starter SaleenGT2001
  • Start date Start date Jan 4, 2007

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
4
58
Four Oaks NC
Jan 4, 2007
#1
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #1
simple question. how do i remove the head studs from my old block to put onto my new block? a pipe wrench seems like an easy way but i'm not sure if it will mess the studs up in any way.
 

04YELLOWGT

Active Member
Jun 29, 2005
1,135
2
39
Indiana
Jan 4, 2007
#2
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #2
I thought you had to get new head studs.
 

jasonh_86

I
May 20, 2005
1,156
2
48
Arkansas
Jan 4, 2007
#3
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #3
I've also been under the impression that you needed new studs, as well as gaskets and all that mess.

I removed mine with a 1/2" 3-ft breaker bar
 

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
4
58
Four Oaks NC
Jan 4, 2007
#4
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #4
if you have head bolts you have to get new ones. i have ARP head and main studs, not the factory bolts
 

LaserRed01GT

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
739
3
0
Clearwater, FL
Jan 4, 2007
#5
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #5
Pipe wrench???

First of all there should have been zero torque applied to the head studs when they were originally put into the block. All you do is bottom them out in the block and that is it. There is absolutely no need to place any torque on the stud itself. You should have also had some moly lube on the threads.

You should be able to easily back them out with the allen wrench that was provided with the head studs.

If you are using the stock factory head bolts, they are TTY (torque to yield) and are junk once they come off.
 

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
4
58
Four Oaks NC
Jan 4, 2007
#6
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #6
i dont think they have an allen wrench top. they are arp studs not factory bolts
 
B

blubullett

Member
Jun 22, 2006
535
6
18
Modesto, CA
Jan 4, 2007
#7
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #7
LaserRed01GT said:
Pipe wrench???

First of all there should have been zero torque applied to the head studs when they were originally put into the block. All you do is bottom them out in the block and that is it. There is absolutely no need to place any torque on the stud itself. You should have also had some moly lube on the threads.

You should be able to easily back them out with the allen wrench that was provided with the head studs.

If you are using the stock factory head bolts, they are TTY (torque to yield) and are junk once they come off.
Click to expand...

What he said....look at the top of the stud there should be some way to grab onto it without damaging the threads....and it should be really easy
 

LaserRed01GT

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
739
3
0
Clearwater, FL
Jan 4, 2007
#8
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #8
SaleenGT2001 said:
i dont think they have an allen wrench top. they are arp studs not factory bolts
Click to expand...


If you have ARP studs, the top will look like this:

 

chini42

Founding Member
Nov 30, 2001
138
0
17
Brownstown, Michigan
Jan 4, 2007
#9
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #9
Another way is to use a jam nut. Basically you thread two nuts onto the stud and tighten the top one while holding on to the bottom one, so it doesnt try to move furthert down the stud. Once they are nice and snug together, you can take a wrench and loosen the bottom nut and the stud will come with it as long as the top nut is not moving. I made a little picture to explain, I am quite bored if you couldnt tell.
 

Attachments

  • jamnut.GIF
    2.3 KB · Views: 151

Stan Weiss

Member
Dec 8, 2006
347
2
16
Philadelphia, PA
Jan 4, 2007
#10
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #10
SaleenGT2001 said:
simple question. how do i remove the head studs from my old block to put onto my new block? a pipe wrench seems like an easy way but i'm not sure if it will mess the studs up in any way.
Click to expand...

If there is not place for an allen wrench then use the old double nut method.
 

LaserRed01GT

Banned
Oct 3, 2006
739
3
0
Clearwater, FL
Jan 5, 2007
#11
  • Jan 5, 2007
  • #11
If you don't have the allen tops, then you probably have the 12 pt studs. ARP should have included the appropriate tool. Why are they so tight in the first place?
 

SaleenGT2001

Well-Known Member
Jul 18, 2005
2,811
4
58
Four Oaks NC
Jan 5, 2007
#12
  • Jan 5, 2007
  • #12
they are 12 pt nuts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Exhaust manifold to Y-pipe nut & stud dimensions?
  • joeybuddy96
  • Jul 7, 2026
  • SN95 V6 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
201
SN95 V6 Mustang Tech Jul 9, 2026
joeybuddy96
J
Engine Looking for suggestions and or ideas
  • PonyGTrider
  • Aug 25, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
17
Views
656
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Sep 7, 2026
PonyGTrider
Engine Are These rings OK?
  • PonyGTrider
  • Sep 21, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
7
Views
317
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Sep 26, 2026
PonyGTrider
J
Engine 4.6 Running rough at half throttle
  • jake411
  • Aug 3, 2026
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
5
Views
288
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Oct 20, 2026
DangStitches
D
B
Airaid reduction sleeve?
  • BriansNSane
  • Dec 20, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
0
Views
195
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Dec 20, 2025
BriansNSane
B
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?