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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech

Removing Springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter AP1995V6
  • Start date Start date Jul 24, 2007

AP1995V6

Member
Jul 13, 2003
547
1
16
Oxford, MS
Jul 24, 2007
#1
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #1
http://greatnecksaw.com/product_info.php/pName/strut-spring-compressor/cName/undercar-shocks


Is it okay to use that? It says MacPherson struts, but that's what the guy at AutoZone handed me.
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Jul 24, 2007
#2
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #2
If you are just removing the factory springs then putting on lowering springs you do not need the tool, jsut a jack and be careful...

However the tool will work well for ya... Just will be slower than using the jack...
 

1TallMF

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
955
1
0
Montreal
Jul 24, 2007
#3
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #3
That looks like it could be awkward to use in that confined space. The ones I've seen guys use on A-arm springs are the ones that go through the center hole at the bottom of the A-arm and have a couple of T-shaped claws that compress the spring through the middle. If that makes any sense. I just use a floor jack though, just make sure you get the car high enough to allow for enough clearance for the A-arm to drop-down enough to get the spring out.
 

AP1995V6

Member
Jul 13, 2003
547
1
16
Oxford, MS
Jul 24, 2007
#4
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #4
Yeah, it's not working out so well for me.

I have the a-arm almost completely vertical. I've kicked the crap out of the spring and it's just barely hanging on to the recess of the spring perch.

I didn't remove the tie-rod end because I figured the spring compressor would allow me not to have to drop it that far. And with the tie-rod end removal tool that autozone gave me, i have to take the rotor off and it's pretty much stuck on there.

I do have the c/c plates on though
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Jul 24, 2007
#5
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #5
If you a-arm is that close then take a crowbar (or large bar of some sort) and pry it out. I forgot to mention that I had to do that too..
 

AP1995V6

Member
Jul 13, 2003
547
1
16
Oxford, MS
Jul 24, 2007
#6
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #6
Thanks for that crowbar tip. It came right out.
 

The Green GT

No 13 year olds are safe around me.
10 Year Member
Jan 8, 2006
1,269
19
99
Louisiana
Jul 24, 2007
#7
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #7
I just screamed and cursed at mine until they came out.
 

AP1995V6

Member
Jul 13, 2003
547
1
16
Oxford, MS
Jul 24, 2007
#8
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #8
Haha. I did that for a few seconds. I tend to just come in and watch TV rather than sitting outside screaming at my car now .
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
34
129
Jul 24, 2007
#9
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #9
If someone has real tall springs, unbolting the LCA at the K-member allows for a TON of room to remove and install springs. Doing this allows the strut/spindle to become the pivot, and they have a lot of latitude to move around (just dont let the assembly whack yourself or your car).
 

94-302-vert

Active Member
Aug 16, 2004
1,947
2
36
NE CT
Jul 24, 2007
#10
  • Jul 24, 2007
  • #10
HISSIN50 said:
If someone has real tall springs, unbolting the LCA at the K-member allows for a TON of room to remove and install springs. Doing this allows the strut/spindle to become the pivot, and they have a lot of latitude to move around (just dont let the assembly whack yourself or your car).
Click to expand...



This would have been even more of a hassle for me.... A few others too hae found orselves cutting those botls out by various methods...

I wish my car was as easy as yours...
 
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