Replace pan or use POR15?!?!?

19simmons65 · May 2, 2005

Calling all POR15 and floor pan experts. I pulled up the carpet in the 65 and discovered a patch of rust on the passenger floor pan. I guess discovered isn’t the right word because I was aware the rust was there and decided to ignore it. I’ve completed the trunk and wheel wells and it’s time to bite the bullet.

I’m trying to decide if it’s best to cut and weld a new pan in place or used the POR15 system to treat the affected error. I was thinking that a combination of POR15, Power Mesh Fabric and Epoxy Putty might solve my problem. The rest of the floor is in great shape.

Give me some feedback. Has anyone tried this before?

reenmachine · May 3, 2005

This is extremely common due to leaky heater cores over the years, etc. I'd say replace the pan and do it right. Anything else hurts the value and image of your car.

65ShelbyClone · May 3, 2005

If you take your time and do it right, replacing the floor wont take that much longer than hacking it together with epoxy and paint and you'll get a better result.

YellowMach69 · May 3, 2005

i dont understand how you guys think its so easy,I dont even have a wire feed welder? and how do you change floors and make look original as possible??

Edbert · May 3, 2005

I'd say do both. Replace the pan and POR the new one, then you'll never have to think about it. The small holes in the middle aren't structural, but the ones in the front, by the crease, will take some flex as you drive it.

19simmons65 · May 3, 2005

The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards replacement. I think I'm going to shop the job around because I'm not really interested in learning how to weld for this one job. I'm thinking I might have to replace the lower half of the firewall too. The lower half of the firewall has some rust but I'm not sure how deep.

Should I POR the new pan before of after it's welded into place.

Edbert · May 3, 2005

19simmons65 said:
The more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards replacement. I think I'm going to shop the job around because I'm not really interested in learning how to weld for this one job. I'm thinking I might have to replace the lower half of the firewall too. The lower half of the firewall has some rust but I'm not sure how deep.

Should I POR the new pan before of after it's welded into place.

I did the same thing, could have done it myself but did not want to learn welding on my baby. DEFINITELY apply the POR after the wleding is complete. Also, follow the instructions COMPLETELY, you'll be happy with the results if you do.

19simmons65 · May 3, 2005

Yea, I've used POR on the trunk and wheel wells. At this point...I'm a POR expert. I still avoid water!

Platonic Solid · May 3, 2005

Edbert said:
DEFINITELY apply the POR after the welding is complete.

I second that. However I did Por15 the interior trunk bumper bracket undersides prior to welding them in, which lead to the discovery that Por15 is quite flammable.
.

FasterThenU72 · May 3, 2005

HaHa that mustve sucked baaaad.....

Edbert · May 3, 2005

FasterThenU72 said:
HaHa that mustve sucked baaaad.....

Particularly since there was so much distance between the flames and the fuel tank

Platonic Solid · May 4, 2005

No major damage cause I blew it out quick, but I was surprised to see how well this stuff sustains a flame.

19simmons65 · May 4, 2005

Hey, I was talking with a welder yesterday and he recommended riveting the floor pan into place instead of welding it. He stated the temperature of the weld wasn't good for thin sheet metal. Thoughts?

YellowMach69 · May 4, 2005

No Way ,weld it in place , I dont have a welder nor due i weld but i do know from my last mustang , You use a wire welder and weld in spots like spot welds You donr weld a continuous weld, If you do you gotta jump around .

reenmachine · May 4, 2005

19simmons65 said:
Hey, I was talking with a welder yesterday and he recommended riveting the floor pan into place instead of welding it. He stated the temperature of the weld wasn't good for thin sheet metal. Thoughts?

Find a better welder -- people have been welding sheet metal since the dawn of man. I would much rather see a car with some rust holes in the floor than with a pop-riveted patch panel there. Totally ghetto.

FasterThenU72 · May 4, 2005

hell yeah man, your reparing a classic car not a skyscraper

67S-code · May 4, 2005

How bad is the rust? Is it just surface rust? Pin holes? Big holes? If it's surface rust with some scale and a few small pin holes, a cleaning and POR 15 on both sides should be ok. If there are pin holes, stick tape on the back side of the holes under the floor to keep the POR 15 from dripping through, then remove the tape and do the underside of the floors. If they're larger than pin holes, or the floor is peppered with them, then replace the floors. If you do have to replace them, weld them in, don't rivet them.

19simmons65 · May 4, 2005

Ha! Good comments! All the research that I've done indicates that welding is the best way to go. This dude blew me away when he said the use a rivet gun.

67S-code · May 4, 2005

I just saw your photo. Replace the floor.

Pakrat · May 4, 2005

Yeah that floor needs replacing. My general feelings about when to POR and when not to POR is based on the level of damage. Surface rust that can be removed with a wire brush is a no brainer to use POR. Heavy rust that looks bad but still can't structurly be poked thru with the mild force of a screw driver is a coin toss but probably the extent of rust damage you can get by with using POR. Week metal that is easily compromised or has holes in it regardless of where they are should always be replaced. Doing otherwise regardless of adding epoxy and/or meshes are little more than a band aid and will not last proportionatly long enough compared to the time and energy you will expend.

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