Replacement timing chain - Single or Double?

Folks,

I have to replace the timing chain cover engine seal as it's leaking coolant, and since the timing chain is original and now has 120,000+ miles on it, I figure it's due for a replacement before it fails. So, my question to all of you experts out there is - Should I get a single-row replacement or a double-row? Which one and why? Any help is always appreciated!

Kerry
 
StangRider1 said:
Good info guys, Thanks. :nice:

Double roller for sure. :cheers:

Paul, any ideas on where to go to get the RollMaster at the lowest price? B/C, OMG are those things pricey!

Thanks again, and keep it coming fellas!

Kerry

Aother thumbs up for the Roll Master.

Very nice and top quality.

Its been almost three years ago since I got mine but I wanna say it was about 25% higher than the FRPP unit. Maybe they went up, I dunno.

Ed Curtis told me they had seen several of the FRPP units :nono: explode :nono: at the track.

I got some pics of it on my site if you have never seen one.

Grady
 
CManT1914 said:
:eek: What exactly would happen if a timing chain blew off? I'm assuming you'd bend every valve huh? That would suck! :(

happened to me in my nissan, bent all but 2 valves, and that was because i turned it off right away and didn't try to crank it over. it also notched a few slits to my pistons. not fun, $$ :(

anyways, question, i might change mine soon too, i'll go with the fms, is the thrust plate a must? how tough is it to do? thanks
 
nazstang said:
anyways, question, i might change mine soon too, i'll go with the fms, is the thrust plate a must? how tough is it to do? thanks

Naz, yes the thrust plate is a must, if not things don't line up right, and eventually you can end up with LARGE chunks of metal in your oil pan, definitely not good :nonono: ! As for how tough, not very, just time consuming pulling the front of the engine bay apart.

Thanks again for the part numbers guys.

Grady, nice site, excellent idle clip, verry sweeet! :nice:

Keep 'em comin' fellas!

Kerry
 
StangRider1 said:
Naz, yes the thrust plate is a must, if not things don't line up right, and eventually you can end up with LARGE chunks of metal in your oil pan, definitely not good :nonono: ! As for how tough, not very, just time consuming pulling the front of the engine bay apart.

I disagree, up until now, I've never even heard of having to change the thrust plate. I know plenty of guys who didn't (myself included) and have had no problems. Just MHO.
 
Chris,

Not arguing, just stating what I've personally seen in the past. Buddy of mine years ago had a Chevy 350, put a new double-roller timing chain in it, forgot the thrust plate, and within 2 weeks had destroyed the chain, crank sprocket, and chain cover, most of the pieces ended up in his oil pan. :( I think you may have been lucky.

Kerry
 
I guarantee you that of all the cam swaps done on 5.0's the MAJORITY (I'd say 90%) don't replace the cast iron thrust plate with the steel plate. Why? What is being changed that will cause the cam to push against the thrust plate harder than stock? Nothing (except maybe a HV oil pump, but I'd say that it would be marginal). Why is it an issue in Chevy's? They don't have one to start with (Pre-roller cam engines). There is a "button" that goes in the front of the cam that pushes against the stamped steel timing cover that keeps the cam from moving forward. Frequently, they are left out during a rebuild, and failure is the result. Hence, there is a big opportunity for the AFTERMARKET, and Chevy even added the thrust plate in when they went roller.
Personally, I think it's an uneeded expense (50.00 @ summit)
Also, I think this is a good example of why not to use "my buddy with a camaro did it, so..."

Dennis