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Replacing Firewall On 65 Coupe

  • Thread starter Thread starter lil bull
  • Start date Start date Aug 21, 2012

lil bull

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Nov 27, 2006
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Aug 21, 2012
#1
  • Aug 21, 2012
  • #1
Well it looks like I am going to replace the whole firewall on my 65 coupe instead of patch panels, it is just to far gone to screw with it. The question I have is for those who have done this, is there any secrets to it or anything that has to be perfect on the alignment part? Other than what might seem obvious that is. All 4 inner panels in the engine bay are out. I thought about bolting them to the shock tower temporarily as a guide. I also have to replace the whole cowl top and both sides. Just looking for some advice before I tear the old one out and get started. ThanksView attachment 144942
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Aug 21, 2012
#2
  • Aug 21, 2012
  • #2
a fire wall is a major job especialy in a 65-66 thats about all that holds the front clip in
you will have to support the car and front fraim rails, level it with jack stands start by removing the tar and sealer at the seam were the cowl and fire wall meet,drill out all the spot welds around the top and down the side of the fire wall,inside you will have to drill the spot welds acros the floor and fire wall ,dont drill the spot welds at the floor support and floor towards the seat box as that will be all that is holding the frame rails to the car . the cowl top will be the same drill all the spot welds around it ,use a spot weld cutter that only cuts the outer layer dont go through the bottom layer at the wind shield every thing else you can drill right through, once you get the old pieces removed post again and i can help with the install, hope you arm holds out its a lot of spot welds just take your time and you can do it, oh yeah there will be hidden spot welds between the cowl pannel and the fire wall so remove the cowl top first
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
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tucson,az
Aug 21, 2012
#3
  • Aug 21, 2012
  • #3
in addition you will want to brace the unibody behind the firewall rather like you would if you were replacing the inner rocker panels. some 1x1 tubing will do just fine. just remember to brace it before you remove the old firewall.
 

lil bull

New Member
Nov 27, 2006
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Arlington, Ohio
Aug 22, 2012
#4
  • Aug 22, 2012
  • #4
where exactly do you mean to brace it from. Ialeady have the cowl completely out. the only thing that is really holding it together is that I have supported the floor supprts and have jacks under the rocker panels. The floor itself is comletey gone except for the tranny tunnel which I have not drilled out yet. I have replace the right side floor support and reenforced the inside rocker panels on both sides and replaced the left side rocker nose piece. This thing was a rust bucket and then some. It is a bench seat car so that is why I am trying to save it, and the biggy is it is my wifes car. Anyone have and photos they can share?
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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#5
  • Aug 22, 2012
  • #5
your going to need some measurements with all that you have removed already
alighnment may be a little tough now. for now dont seperate it from the fire wall i will see if i can get some measurements from one of mine ,should be braced across the tranny tunnel from door jamb to door jamb to keep the sides from moving in or out and attach the bracing on top of the tunnel as well, 1+1 tubing will work and and tack it to the tunnel as well ,tack weld the ends to the door jamb, that measurement is 54 1/2 from inside to inside of door jambs ,do this first then go from there
 

lil bull

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Nov 27, 2006
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Aug 22, 2012
#6
  • Aug 22, 2012
  • #6
horse sence said:
your going to need some measurements with all that you have removed already
alighnment may be a little tough now. for now dont seperate it from the fire wall i will see if i can get some measurements from one of mine ,should be braced across the tranny tunnel from door jamb to door jamb to keep the sides from moving in or out and attach the bracing on top of the tunnel as well, 1+1 tubing will work and and tack it to the tunnel as well ,tack weld the ends to the door jamb, that measurement is 54 1/2 from inside to inside of door jambs ,do this first then go from there
Click to expand...
 

lil bull

New Member
Nov 27, 2006
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Arlington, Ohio
Aug 22, 2012
#7
  • Aug 22, 2012
  • #7
ok can do, will have to get some 1 x1 for bracing. if you have any pictures you could take then I could write the dimensions on that cause I do not have a portable pc to take out to the shop. I also had to replace the fron half of the right frame rail from under the shock tower, the four aprons, the radiator support and the radiator cross member and the right shock tower. Hope after it is all done it will go down the road straight.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Aug 22, 2012
#8
  • Aug 22, 2012
  • #8
you will have to square the front again ,a little more square tube there will help
it can be done so dont give up it will just take some measureing and a little leveling,lots of welding ,i will load some pics on my pc to use for measurements,just let us know when you are ready for the next step. Jim
 

lil bull

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Nov 27, 2006
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Arlington, Ohio
Sep 28, 2012
#9
  • Sep 28, 2012
  • #9
any pics to see yet?
 
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