Replacing oil pan gasket without removing engine?

IM pretty sure your gonna have to jack the engine up.

the only way i know of is to get a hoist, remove the motor mount nuts, and anything that will hold the motor back (ground wires on the back of the heads, etc.... ) and jack the motor up. take 2 4x4's and place them under the motor mounts, take the oil pan off while its suspended, then set the engine back down on top of them.. clean the oil pan up, put the new gasket on there, jack the motor up, and put it back on, remove the 4x4's and lower the engine back down and bolt everything back together. the main reason for the 4x4's is so the hoist isnt under strain the whole time your doing the job, and for safety reasons (IE: the chain breaks)

just my .02

Had mine replaced and I don't think they had to pull the motor. Just have to jack it up like everyone said.

i put in a new oil pump drive shaft about 3 weeks ago by only undoin the engine mount nut and jacking it up. It wasnt to hard maybe 7 if 10 is the hardest but ur only puttin a gasket on. Best of luck to ya!!

you have to undo the motor mounts and jack her up.....no gettin around it!

I've changed oil pumps rods and pan gaskets with the motor in the car. Trick is to get it jacked up as high as possible and as someone else said, make sure its propped so you dont loose any digits. If memory serves you kind of have to snake the gasket around the rotaing assembly because I dont think I was able to get the pan to clear the crank throws to totally remove it. I could only drop it a few inches. So ya it can be done but it isnt what I would call a fun job.

Been there, done that - You can do it in the car, but it is hard to do. The best way is to pull the engine.

Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan and fan shroud. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.

I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.

Scrape the pan mating surfaces clean as possible - old gasket stuck to the surfaces are a source of leaks.

Get a high volume/heavy duty pump, and a replacement HD pump shaft. FMS makes one, and ARP does too. When you install the pump, the funny looking washer thingy goes on the part of the shaft that fits into the hex socket in the distributor shaft. It keeps the shaft in place when you remove the distributor, which you will have to do to prime the pump. Forget to put it on, and the pump shaft can come loose and fall down in the bottom of the oil pan.

There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.

Fill with oil, replace the filter. Reconnect the battery, switch the ignition on to enable the gages, but DON'T crank the car. Remove the distributor and use a 1/4" hex socket to turn the pump counter clock wise (same direction as distributor rotation) until you see oil pressure (an external gage is a great help long about now). And keep turning for about 30 sec after you see the pressure come up. A reversible drill is the best tool to use to turn the 1/4" socket. The pressure should come up to about 50-80psi with cold oil. Once you see good pressure, check for obvious leaks, and then and only then, lower everything back into place and bolt down the mounts and anything else you had to take loose.

Re-install the distributor and set the timing with the engine running using timing light (don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT plug and reconnect it when finished) 12-14 degrees BDC is good. Start up and check for leaks, let it warm up and look again for leaks. It took me 2 days plus, but I am old and slow, maybe your granny is faster.