I posted a similar question last weekend. One of the boots on my rack is leaking fluid, so apparently it needs to be replaced. I couldn't get any opinions, however, as to where to buy a new or reman'd rack, or if it was a DIY job... Also, are there any write-ups, hopefully with pics, online?
Its really not that bad...the hardest part i had was getting the steering shaft back in the rack. I bought a autoparts one and have had it for about 2 years with no problems. Just dont get a 4cyl rack accidently like i did. Be prepared to have your car aligned too. I counted threads on the outer tie rods and the alignment was still wayy off. I used sythetic fluid when i replaced it also. I think I did have a problem with the bushings on the rack, i cant remeber if i ended up using the old ones or not. But I do remember I had to make several trips to the parts store. Remember only get a rack with "sport suspension" thats the 5.0 rack. The other is a 4cyl rack which is currently on my car lol
The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.
The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.
The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.
Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.
To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning , but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.
Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.
Thanks so much J, that should be a big help. About how long does the swap take, roughly? And how high off the ground do you need the car to be (I'll be doing the swap in a dirt parking spot across the street from my house, with only a floor jack and stands to lift it)?? That may sound like a dumb question, but I have no clue what the rack looks like standing alone, how tall it is or anything...
either or, if worse comes to worse you can do it with just the jack. Trust me.......But make sure the car is securely supported for safety sake. With hand tools and no breaks your looking at 3-4 hours roughly. Some might object that estimate, but the last time I did it I had a lift and air tools+ 2 friends. Good luck bro.....
If I remember correctly, the bushings are going to give you the biggest problems of the whole job. You may need to get new ones and have them put in the new rack for you before you take it to the car. So you have a nice new complete assambly to install. If the car is lowered, you might want to look into getting off-set rack bushings though.
ramps would be a PITA for popping tie rods, i think. i jacked the front end, put it on ramps and did it that way (the front end was stripped to the frame for freshening).
the rack is about 4 feet wide. it is long and skinny. if you look at the front of the K member, you will see it. i posted the other info i knew about bushings in your other thread, i think.
a parts store variety should be fine. many are the same brand anyhow.