RestoMod & Brakes

Who has the best "Bang for the Buck" drum to disc conversion kit? the car in question is in need a major brake overhaul and was wondering what kind of goodies were out there that i haven't already looked into.

i have checked out what Mustangs Plus, Dallas Mustang, California Mustang and National Parts Depot - have to offer and just curious if i was missing a better "deal".

website links might be helpful too.
thanks
 
From all the ones I have looked at. They seem priced from around $895.00 to $1,295.00 depending on what you want. I am replacing the factory disk setup on mine. I think I am going with the one with the slotted rotors and better pads. Seems like I had decided on NPD for mine. I am going to order mine next week. Their kit number 1102-12as is the one I need for my 67. And I dont think I will find one any cheaper then the $1,049.00 . I looked at just getting the pieces I really need. But I dont see I am saving that much doing it that way.
Bud
 
FYI: Mustangs Unlimited offers basically the same things as NPD, and I've found that MU is a little cheaper on a few items, and that MU is not NEARLY as restrictive on their "free shipping on orders over $XXX" as NPD is....NPD also offers free shipping, but many of their large/heavy/oversized parts do not qualify for the free shipping. :notnice: Kind of like offering free lunch every day of the week except Monday through Friday, Sunday, and Saturday until 8 PM.

I haven't had this problem yet with MU.

For example, I recently ordered a pair of Global West Negative Roll UCAs from MU, price approx. $450, free shipping; NPD was selling a knock-off of the GW product for $49X, and they weren't eligible for free shipping. :notnice:

Also FYI: I just ordered a full Baer "Claw" conversion with 13" track front; 12" touring rear; proportioning valve; rotors cross-drilled, slotted, & zinc-washed; calipers powder-coated black. The entire kit delivered cost me under $2400.
 
Absolutely.


I guess to get back to the original post... This question has been asked many times. You may want to do a search in here. The first question to ask yourself though is what you mean by "bang for the buck". If you just want a solid kit that will improve your braking capability and not bust the bank, I'd check out the options by SSBC (the small rotor kits). But if you're looking to upgrade to a performance package, and spend a little more, look into the reputable names such as Wilwood and Baer. SSBC offers a performance kit also, but it's just as expensive. If you're gonna spend the coin... go with the name.

It may be "sheeping"... but hey, you can't argue with their product.

Or you could listen to the Granada swap boys... they have ideas on what you may want also.
 
I'm in the process of installing a new set of Wilwood racing brakes with Drilled & Slotted Rotors. Nice thing about this kit is that I'm able to use same spindles as the stock drums.

Only drawback is the front track width is incresaed by 1/2" per side and brakes are not DOT approved. :p

Not the best Pic but here's a look. Price for the brake kit was around $700.00. Things like hoses, prop valve,a nd dual res M/C were exta.

368495_72_full.jpg
 
I was also thinking about buying the willwood setup. It seams to be the best deal. 4 piston caliper, and all new parts for 650 in summit i believe. I hestitated hereing that it adds track width though, consider my wheels are right at the fender now. I ended up getting some maverick brakes, works pretty good. Much better than drum brakes.
 
There's another option that's slowly gaining popularity. Check out CNC. At the Knott's show last month, I saw several cars with their setup. Also, the TCP race car used CNC brakes. If you've ever seen that car run, Terry would brake deeper into a turn than most. Terry said he never experienced any kind of fade and that he could out-brake anyone. Granted, TCP used the pimp daddy race setup with a recirculating device that would completely circulate the fluid in the brake system after hitting the brakes 7-8 times.

Might be a little overkill for the street, but they have other setups and it's another player in the disc brake market.
 
Not to burst anyones bubble but a lot of you seem to be buying drilled and slotted rotors. I have been told by several brake specialists that have tested drilled and slotted rotors vs non drilled and slotted rotors and they have told me that the drilled and slotted rotors actually create more heat than the non drilled and slotted rotors and therefore will wear out more quickly. The reason they said this is happening is because by drilling and slotting them you are actually removing metal and therefore removing more of the area in which the heat dissipates. Also the function of the holes and slots does not actually work to cool them off because of the fact that they are drilled straight through. If they were drilled at an angle then they would be able to scoop the air and more effectively cool off the rotor.


Anyway just thought I would share what I have heard.
 
This is from mpbrakes.com

ROTOR SIZE Efficient braking requires the conversion of your car's kinetic energy into heat. This heat is produced by the rotor being clamped by the disc brake pads. The rapid dissapation of this generated heat is critical to good brake function.
The larger the rotor the more efficiently a rotor will dissipate heat. This translates into better braking.
For most street applications an 11" rotor will work perfectly. However a very heavy car or a car that's subjected to extreme braking will benefit from 12" rotors.

CROSS DRILLED ROTORS Better braking performance is all about cooling down the rotor fast. When a rotor is cross drilled or slotted this helps to discharge the hot gasses that are built up and therefore cool down the rotor faster. Hence, better braking.
Although cross drilled and slotted rotors are not an absolute necessity for street use they are a relatively inexpensive upgrade when adding disc brakes.

So who knows. :shrug:
 
well, i'm not getting into the slotted/drilled-non arguement.

i just want to say i've had rear slot/drilled rotors on for 4ish years and no probs and like them.

i have the same baer system as BAD67FUN and Snail50.

i haven't installed the fronts, but i really like the Engeering behind baer stuff and at least their calipers are from a street car. Also their reputation is second to non along with their customer service.

i highly recommend them!!
 
If your really looking for the most 'Bang for your Buck,' I would recomend the Granada swap. (I can't believe no one has really brought this up yet)

I was able to complete the swap for a whopping total of $325. The spindles I bought off Ebay, and everything else you buy from your local parts store. I even cross-drilled the rotors. Its still manual, but compared to the old 4-wheel drums it feels like power.

I love them, but I am sure one day when I have the money to drop I will upgrade to a Baer set up or something like it just because.
 
Something to ponder.......One small problem with all aftermarket kits/parts is this: If something breaks away from home how would you fix or replace it. Can you go down to the local parts store to get new brake pads for what? Made by whom? I am leaning toward a stock Ford Explorer rear disc kit.