Bad move, you can get a pretty decent chunk of change for a complete wiring harness. Unless it was all hacked up, then I would have saved it for the connectors and what not.
To expand upon that, the harness was hacked up, and I didn't need the connectors, I have a fabricated aluminum dash with everything wired to independent switches.
Just so you know, the only thing remotely stock in the motor is the block and it was cryo treated by CryoPlus, lifters aren't stock either
. Also, it's not possible to have billet rods with a billet crank . I might not "know everything" but I do know my motor.
P.S. Jesus, how much would a billet crank weigh anyway? Wouldn't it be a bad idea anyway just because of the weight?
To expand upon that, the harness was hacked up, and I didn't need the connectors, I have a fabricated aluminum dash with everything wired to independent switches.
It will rev to 7000+ RPM, but if you knew your motor you would know it wont make power that high. Probably be done by 6000 RPM, but like stated above time to change the Dist. etc...
this is kind of a stupid thread. What exactly are you asking? It seems like most people have been saying the same thing. Your running out of power at 5900?!...honestly that sounds perfectly normal for ported E7's and a b-cam. You have a stock style valvetrain...no shaft mount rockers or titanium components. Quite simply the motor isnt built for 7k+ rpm...its built for 6k tops. I think you just need to start shifting at 6k...especially if it feels like the car is running out of steam at 5900. it just seems logical
Im also just realizing that we dont know about your intrumentation issues. You cant trust the stock tach as far as you can throw it. Horrible inaccurate. Hopefully you have a nice autometer or something comparable to know the true rpm. you said you have an Al dash so hopefully you got rid of stock instrumentation.