rocker ams and push rods

spade33 · Feb 2, 2008

i am in need of a new set of rocker ams and push rods so i was woundering what your guys suggestion is. I do not have a ton of money but i am willing to spend money on this part. i was curious what ration i should get and what type roller tip or just standard. i do not have a roller block so i was woundering if i could even get roller tip.?what is the benifit of 1.6 ratio vs. 1.7 also what type of pushrods or anythign like that. thanks again guys for all your help. i will be pulling the motor back out soon so i can find thoes darn leaks and fix them. Thanks alot guys again

mikethebike · Feb 2, 2008

Erson aluminum full roller. Stock ratio. About $160.00. Use their push rods. If you mark and dimple the splash shield you won't need to run tall covers or buy a spacer.

spade33 · Feb 2, 2008

can you give me some more information on that.. i do not have a roller block so would those work? and where can i find them like a part number and such i found a catalog but it is slightly vague. any more information would be sweet thank you again.

Edbert · Feb 2, 2008

You don't need a roller cam or block to run roller-tipped rockers, just make sure you get the right pushrods to go with them. Do you have pressed in rocker shafts?

mikethebike · Feb 2, 2008

spade33 said:
can you give me some more information on that.. i do not have a roller block so would those work? and where can i find them like a part number and such i found a catalog but it is slightly vague. any more information would be sweet thank you again.

Go to thefir web sight. It should all be there. They should bolt right on any stud type head.

spade33 · Feb 2, 2008

i am not sure whatever the stock heads would come with on a 66 is what i have

Edbert · Feb 2, 2008

Those are pressed in, you have to be careful about using too much spring pressure (high performance type) with those. Studs are better but would require removing the heads and having them machined.

You should be fine with those as long as you get a cam and rockers designed for them (low performance), they've been in use and manufacture for a very long time without any problems as long as the parts combinations are chosen accordingly.

spade33 · Feb 2, 2008

well i already have a cam in there i need to find out hte specs on it but i kno wits not mild but its not wild its got a good lope to it though. ok and i dont know if i am just dense or what but there websight is doing me no good it keeps taking me through mr. gasket web sight and alli can find on there is their parts catalog or if i go though parts finder it doesnt even show me rocker arms just studs and such. but sso would 1.6 be the best bet than? and i can find comp cams http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-RP1431-16&autoview=sku easy enough but i am also curious do i need self aligning or not for ten bucks not a big deal but i dont know what is right

D.Hearne · Feb 2, 2008

Before buying or ordering rockers, remove the valve covers first and see what rockers you have in there now. The early 66's had the better cast rockers with pushrod guide slots and hardened pushrods. The April-up 66's had rail rockers and you'll be limited to only those rockers of that type. I don't recommend buying roller tipped rockers, the price difference between them and full rollers isn't all that much and the tips themselves don't reduce that much friction to justify the cost. Full rollers are what you want. 1.7's give you .030 more lift at the valve over 1.6's. If your cam is at or close to the spring bind limit with your springs, 1.7's could put em over the hill. With you already having a performance cam, and you don't know the specs or spring bind specs, just shoot for 1.6 rockers.

spade33 · Feb 4, 2008

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN-11746-16&autoview=sku ....? would thoes work if they are the earlier rockers? i have had them off many times before so if you could explain what the diffrence is i could probably just say i dont really understand what a rail rocker is i dont know if i am just a little slow haha so full roller rockers would work on a motor like mine? i never really knew that i know it was mentioned that i could run roller tip but full roller is ok too? how about hte push rods any advice on that..? and D.hearne i just wanted to say thanks you are always there to chime in and help!

D.Hearne · Feb 4, 2008

Those would work on the early 66 heads. The rail rocker types(late 66) would be classified as "self aligning". On the rail rockers, the valve stem fits up inside an inverted channel, that's what keeps the rocker tip centered on the valve stem. The early 66's have a narrow slot cut into the head that the pushrod passes thru, and that slot keeps the pushrod and rocker centered on the valve stem. With these, you must use hardened pushrods or the pushrod rubbing on the iron of the head will wear it out quickly. Your rocker studs are 3/8" but pressed in the head, unless you've had screw in studs installed. The pre 68 (or 69, I don't recall when this mod was instituted) studs allow adjustment of the rocker, the studs afterward have a shoulder below the threads that limit the distance the rocker fulcrum can be pressed down by the nut.

mikethebike · Feb 5, 2008

D.Hearne said:
Those would work on the early 66 heads. The rail rocker types(late 66) would be classified as "self aligning". On the rail rockers, the valve stem fits up inside an inverted channel, that's what keeps the rocker tip centered on the valve stem. The early 66's have a narrow slot cut into the head that the pushrod passes thru, and that slot keeps the pushrod and rocker centered on the valve stem. With these, you must use hardened pushrods or the pushrod rubbing on the iron of the head will wear it out quickly. Your rocker studs are 3/8" but pressed in the head, unless you've had screw in studs installed. The pre 68 (or 69, I don't recall when this mod was instituted) studs allow adjustment of the rocker, the studs afterward have a shoulder below the threads that limit the distance the rocker fulcrum can be pressed down by the nut.

The 67 I bought new in July of that year with a 289 had the positive-lock rockers.

spade33 · Feb 5, 2008

hey d. hearne here is a couple of posts from before that have some pictures of my heads in them... if you dont mind could you take a look to see if you could tell from them? if they are early or late. this was before the rebuild when the spring snapped but if you can tell from this let me know otherwise i could get some more pictures for sure, from what i think your telling me you would need to see where the pushrod goes into the head. and i believe it has the slit you spoke of but i am not sure thanks agian and here is the link http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=701106

Edbert · Feb 5, 2008

I can't see the pushrod slot/hole in those pictures, but your rocker shafts are definitely pressed in. Look at the holes the pushrods come through, if they are round or oval with straight sides.

D.Hearne · Feb 5, 2008

Edbert said:
I can't see the pushrod slot/hole in those pictures, but your rocker shafts are definitely pressed in. Look at the holes the pushrods come through, if they are round or oval with straight sides.

D.Hearne · Feb 5, 2008

Edbert said:
I can't see the pushrod slot/hole in those pictures, but your rocker shafts are definitely pressed in. Look at the holes the pushrods come through, if they are round or oval with straight sides.

I can't tell either from the angles, but those short valve stem tops is the clincher. Definately slot guided early heads. The rail rocker valve stems are a good 1/4" (or more)taller.

D.Hearne · Feb 5, 2008

mikethebike said:
The 67 I bought new in July of that year with a 289 had the positive-lock rockers.

I'm not 100% sure when the rocker stud change was made, but the one book I have that mentions it, says it was the 69 model year. I was basing my 68 year due to the 385 series heads (429/460) having positive stop studs from the begining in 68.

spade33 · Feb 6, 2008

god your car knowledge amazes me!! but that is definatly a good thing means i can get those and that excites me but anyways thank you so much guys and if i get to it in the next couple weeks when im not volunteering with the fire dept or working or going to school haha or skiing cuz well got to do that i am going to take a break from body work to tear into the engine to get it to tip top :SNSign: god i tell every perosn i can about this sight you guys are friggin awesome!!

spade33 · Feb 6, 2008

what length push rods?

D.Hearne · Feb 6, 2008

Your stock pushrods will probably be fine. Wait til you install the rockers then do a cheack of how the tips fit the valve stem tops. This is what's also called checking the geometry. The rocker tip should be as close to the center of the stem as possible. all thru the motion of opening and closing the valve.

rocker ams and push rods

spade33

New Member

mikethebike

Member

spade33

New Member

Edbert

mikethebike

Member

spade33

New Member

Edbert

spade33

New Member

D.Hearne

New Member

spade33

New Member

D.Hearne

New Member

mikethebike

Member

spade33

New Member

Edbert

D.Hearne

New Member

D.Hearne

New Member

D.Hearne

New Member

spade33

New Member

spade33

New Member

D.Hearne

New Member

Similar threads

rocker ams and push rods

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

New Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency