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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Roll Cage

  • Thread starter Thread starter dbdragracing
  • Start date Start date Jan 2, 2006

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Jan 2, 2006
#1
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #1
I am in the process of changing my gray interior to black. While I have all my interior out I'm going to weld my subframe connectors in (so I don't risk hurting the new carpet) and my friends have suggested I go a head and install a roll cage. This is my project car and I plan on swapping the 302 out for a stroked 351W and drag racing this car in the future....it will see some light street duty too. My questions:

How many point (4pt, 6pt, etc.) roll cage is sufficient?
Should it be welded in or bolted in?
Is there some drage racing rule book I can look at to show me what each class requires?

Any light you can shed on this topic will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to see some pics of roll cages installed. Thanks.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
3,133
18
108
Chicagoland
Jan 2, 2006
#2
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #2
Each sanctioning body has differing rules as to their cage requirements, but a 6 point is probably your best bet. I didn't look, but I'm sure NHRA and IHRA have their own specific rules posted, and how to go about getting your cage certified. They'll all require it to be welded though, as bolts would probably just tear the floor, or break, and be useless at the first strong impact, if it ever took one.
 
9

93-331-29psi

Member
Jul 20, 2004
157
0
17
NE North Carolina
Jan 2, 2006
#3
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #3
Agreed, check with the rules of your local track, or check the NHRA/IHRA website. I think that your ETs will be limited by the choice of your safety equipment also.
 

LS-what?

Founding Member
Jan 12, 2002
133
0
0
indiana
Jan 2, 2006
#4
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #4
heres a pick of my cage to give you a idea of a cage DO NOT laugh at the welds if you can wait I will go to the chassy shop and take more pics It's being updated to a 12-pt

[/IMG]

when you get real serious and stupid like my self you start doing $H!t like this
and have a never ending project.......lol
[/IMG]





 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
1,698
203
Allentown, PA
Jan 2, 2006
#5
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #5
A roll bar is required in any convertible running 13.99 seconds or quicker in the quarter mile, and in other cars beginning at 11.99. The roll bar is accepted in vehicles running as quick as 10.00 second e.t., provided the stock firewall and floorboard is intact, other than for installation of wheel tubs. The rollbar must be constructed of minimum 1 ¾ inch o.d. x .118 inch wall mild steel tubing, or 1 ¾ x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:



If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing

Straight from the NHRA website. I'm pretty sure they changed the 11.99 cutoff to 11.49 a few months ago.
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
9,039
6
79
Charlotte, NC
Jan 2, 2006
#6
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #6
Keep in mind that if you're running mild steel, it will be quite a bit heavier than a Chromoly bar/cage. Also, mild steel can be MIG welded; Chromoly must be TIG welded.
 

408stroker5.0

The world would be a better place if all males jus
Mar 10, 2004
639
0
16
Bonnyville, Alberta, CANADA
Jan 2, 2006
#7
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #7
On my car I went with through the floor subframe connectors which I got custom made/welded in at a chassis shop in my area. I then had them weld in an 8 Point Chromoly Steel Roll Bar/Cage. I was very impressed with how it turned out. I've always felt that through the floor subframe connectors are the only way to go...those bolt on ones you can buy are crap and do more harm then good and even a lot of the weld in ones out on the market are poorly made. As for bolt in roll bars/cage...same thing...I wouldn't even dream of putting one in my car.
 

dbdragracing

Member
Dec 1, 2004
397
2
18
Jan 2, 2006
#8
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #8
Do you have any pics of the 8pt cage in your car? I want something I can drag race with but allows me to cruise in the car without fighting bars everywhere. I plan on shooting for a 10sec car so I want to do everything I need for saftey while I have the interior apart. Thanks.
 

408stroker5.0

The world would be a better place if all males jus
Mar 10, 2004
639
0
16
Bonnyville, Alberta, CANADA
Jan 2, 2006
#9
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #9
I am at work on nightshift right now but tommorow I will try and post some pics....If I can figure out how to load them....I've never posted pics on the internet before.
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
1,698
203
Allentown, PA
Jan 2, 2006
#10
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #10
upoad them to photobucket.com, free and easy
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
9,692
95
99
PA
Jan 2, 2006
#11
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #11
I think you need one of these..lol


All kidding aside a good 8pt set-up will do just fine (MAIN HOOP, DOOR BARS, HATCH BARS, KICKERS TO THE SUBFRAMES OR LOWER TQ BOXES IF YOU ARE ELIMINATING THE REAR SEAT)

You can install swing out door bars to make the street a little more convient. Thru floor subs are the way to go if you do not have any currently installed.
 

RacEoHolic330

I like to dress like a pretty girl
15 Year Member
Mar 4, 2003
4,014
1,698
203
Allentown, PA
Jan 2, 2006
#12
  • Jan 2, 2006
  • #12
hey rick, you never got back to me about pricing for a 6 point and through the floor subs.. guess your pm box is full
 
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