Roller motor break-in tech?

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5.0ina66

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Jan 12, 2006

#1

• Jan 12, 2006

• #1

I know you break in a new flat tappet cammed motor @2k RPM for 20min, so something like that. Since there is no break-in period on a roller cam (supposedly), what do you do? Let it idle and make sure it's ok, then change the oil and drive it? That's what I had in mind, but I could be wrong? What do you do?
thanks
kyle

 

stangjunkie

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#2

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yup thats all you need to do run it for 300 miles then change the oil and filter then your good for 3k

 

srothfuss

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Oct 17, 2004

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Jan 12, 2006

#3

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• #3

Search....

Litterally there was a thread a few weeks back where this topic was discussed.

Cliff Notes version: Everyone does it differnet, but there is no specific break in required for the rollers / cam.

 

DMAN302

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Jan 12, 2006

#4

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• #4

My theory has always been...drive it like YOU paid for it...what that means to me may be different than it is for you. Main concears are keeping oil/filter clean, keep checking for leaks and or strange noises.

 

Modular2v

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#5

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• #5

instead of putting oil in it go to walmart and buy a big bag of sand haha! everyone does it different i would go easy on it for about 500 miles. just because it is a roller motor doesnt mean that the rings dont need to seat properly

 

Grn92LX

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#6

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Read this link. Follow what Barry R posted. This IS how you properly break in a roller engine. I was anal and I changed my oil 4 times with regular oil by the time I hit 600 miles, then I switched to synthetic.

http://bbs.hardcore50.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12510&highlight=engine+break

 

dragnazz5.0

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Jan 12, 2006

#7

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i got my new motor running, and made sure nothing was leaking and than took it out to the highway and kept the car in 5th gear. let off the gas until the rpms dropped to like 2k rpms and than eased into the throttle making sure there was a load on the engine all the time and than let it drop back down. but in all honesty everyone does it different...but if you want some professional advice listen to barry r.

 

vristang

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#8

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Personally, I would follow the recommendations of the company that made your rings. It makes sense to me that they would know the proper procedure better than almost anyone.

When I researched this subject prior to starting up my stroker, it seemed like most manufacturers recommend an immediate load to be put on the engine. Run it at various loads until the oil is up to temp (the oil warms up slower than the coolant does). Then perform the first oil change while the oil is still hot. This will make sure that all the little particles and assy lube are dissolved in the oil, and not settled out in the bottom of the pan. Most ring manufacturers seem to agree that rings will either seal or not seal in the first few minutes of operation.

That's all I've got,
jason

 

5spd GT

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Jan 13, 2006

#9

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So what would be the best load to go about?

3rd gear (373's with 300rwhp) about 3/4 throttle up to what rpm? And just let off and let it "ride" back down to what rpm? How many times?

 

5.0Droptop

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Jan 13, 2006

#10

• Jan 13, 2006

• #10

I was told when I done HCI on the vert the first time, that when you start car and have oil pressure that you should rev the motor to 2500 rpm for about 60 seconds to allow the lifters and rockers to settle into place. When I built the new motor for the vert the mach shop told me the same thing. And He told me to break the motor in for 500 miles and change oil. Then continue to break it in up to 2000 miles before I take it to the track and really beat on it. He said motors he builds for street use, have closer tolerances and need more time to break in compared to track only motors.

 

Grn92LX

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#11

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5spd GT said:

So what would be the best load to go about?

3rd gear (373's with 300rwhp) about 3/4 throttle up to what rpm? And just let off and let it "ride" back down to what rpm? How many times?

Click to expand...

Around 5k rpm is cool. But vary the load, speed, rpm and gear. Do it a bunch of times once its warmed up, then come home and change the oil and do it again. Then change the oil a week later or so. Cut open your first oil filter with tin snips and see if theres anything in it. If theres a bunch of big shavings, you have problems. Prime the motor before starting. You can rent the 1/4" drive priming tool at autozone. Almost sounds like i've done this before