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roller rockers help

  • Thread starter Thread starter gonzothegreat
  • Start date Start date Dec 19, 2005
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gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
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16
London (uk)
Dec 19, 2005
#1
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #1
Hi guys,

This is what I have at the moment:


I would like to go for something like those:


The studs on my 302 head are 5/16" and I cannot find roller rockers for it amnit: any help will be appreciated

What do I need to do?
 

jerry S

New Member
Sep 3, 2003
1,365
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0
52.22N 5.12E
Dec 19, 2005
#2
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #2
gonzothegreat said:
Hi guys,

The studs on my 302 head are 5/16" and I cannot find roller rockers for it amnit: any help will be appreciated

What do I need to do?
Click to expand...

verify that you have stud mount and not pedestal mount rockers. I suspect the latter.
 
T

The Dan

New Member
Jul 16, 2003
319
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Orange County, CA
Dec 19, 2005
#3
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #3
I would think the easiest thing to do is swap out the studs to 3/8" or 7/16" Finding 5/16" as you stated will probably prove difficult, and if you do find them, their such an odd size that they'll probably cost a bit more due to low production quantities. My .02
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
1
16
London (uk)
Dec 19, 2005
#4
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #4
The Dan said:
I would think the easiest thing to do is swap out the studs to 3/8" or 7/16"
Click to expand...


is that something difficult to do?
 
T

The Dan

New Member
Jul 16, 2003
319
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Orange County, CA
Dec 19, 2005
#5
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #5
No. The base of the studs should be the same as what you currently have. It is the upper part of the stud that will measure 3/8" or 7/16" and that is what will determine the roller rocker size you go with. You should be able to order a set of ARP studs, what ever size you want, take your old studs out, screw your new one's in, set your roller rockers over the top of them, set the valve lash and be on your way. Just verify the torque specs when installing the new studs. For Alum. it is 45 ft lbs, I don't know what it is for iron.
 
T

The Dan

New Member
Jul 16, 2003
319
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Orange County, CA
Dec 19, 2005
#6
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #6
Actually, looking at your pic I'm pretty sure jerry is right, looks like pedistal mounts. Just order pedistal mount roller rockers...I think comps makes a nice set for pedistal applications.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
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Medina,Tennessee
Dec 19, 2005
#7
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #7
You have pressed in studs. I have known of some drag racers the try to use press in studs with roller rockers with bad results. (They will pull out under extreme use) The 5/16 inch studs are used in mostly pedestal applications like Jerry stated so if you go to the trouble of changing the stud size you might as well go with screw in studs which will require machining.
 

fasttback

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
471
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Northern CA
Dec 19, 2005
#8
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #8
Also note you have Ford rail rockers on your current head. If you go with any other stud-type roller rocker you will have to add guide plates and hardened push rods. And the guide plates require screw-in studs to hold them down.
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
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London (uk)
Dec 19, 2005
#9
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #9
I guess that's a lot of work..... and some $$$$
 

Max Power

Active Member
Jul 31, 2003
1,774
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St Paul
Dec 19, 2005
#10
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #10
Yup, those look like press-ins. You will need to remove the heads to tap for screw-ins, get guide plates, get hardened pushrods and of course the rockers.

You won't see any real gains for the money spent, especially with stock heads.
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
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London (uk)
Dec 19, 2005
#11
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #11
Max Power said:
You won't see any real gains for the money spent, especially with stock heads.
Click to expand...

I am not really looking for extra power, I just need a quieter valve train.
And the heads are ported, might not be as good as a pair of AFR, but my diy porting as made a night and day difference on the engine overall performance
.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Dec 19, 2005
#12
  • Dec 19, 2005
  • #12
I second and third the motion, you've got pressed in studs and rail rockers. Definately not pedestal, for sure not screw ins. You'll need screw in studs, guide plates, new pushrods and then a set of roller rockers. You will not get a quieter valve train after all this. It WILL give you some extra power, from the reduced friction and if you go with 1.7 ratio rockers, you'll pick up a few extra ponies from the increased lift at the valve. Will it be worth the expense and effort? You'll likely not feel it in the seat of the pants meter, you would see some gains on a dyno of about 10-15 hp.
 

jerry S

New Member
Sep 3, 2003
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52.22N 5.12E
Dec 20, 2005
#13
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #13
Should he do it? It depends on if he has a paxton blower on that car or not. If he does, then he should definitely put in new studs. He should go with 7/16 top and bottom. These are $40. Guideplates are another $30. Pushrods can go anywhere from $50 to $130. All very much worth doing if he has a blower on that car. Sooner or later, he will need these upgrades and I say better now then after something goes snap, crackle, pop. (Ounce of prevention and all that).

As it turns out. I have some brand new screw in studs, 7/16 bottom and 3/8 top, and brand new guideplates I will sell at cost (thus eating the duty and overseas shipping expenses). I also have some comp cams roller tip roller rockers I can sell (50 miles on them).
 

jerry S

New Member
Sep 3, 2003
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52.22N 5.12E
Dec 20, 2005
#14
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #14
thehueypilot said:
You have pressed in studs. I have known of some drag racers the try to use press in studs with roller rockers with bad results. (They will pull out under extreme use) The 5/16 inch studs are used in mostly pedestal applications like Jerry stated so if you go to the trouble of changing the stud size you might as well go with screw in studs which will require machining.
Click to expand...

There was no picture when I loaded the page so I guessed based on the size he indicated. Now that I see the picture, I see exactly what he has. I too know of a fellow who was running a big cam on pressed-in studs only to have everything break loose on a remote stretch of road.
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
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London (uk)
Dec 20, 2005
#15
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #15
jerry S said:
Should he do it? It depends on if he has a paxton blower on that car or not. If he does, then he should definitely put in new studs.
Click to expand...


yes m8, I have a SN93 but it's not yet installed, it's on a shelve in my garage.
here it is, just for the fun:


 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
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16
London (uk)
Dec 20, 2005
#16
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #16
jerry S said:
There was no picture when I loaded the page so I guessed based on the size he indicated. Now that I see the picture, I see exactly what he has. I too know of a fellow who was running a big cam on pressed-in studs only to have everything break loose on a remote stretch of road.
Click to expand...

I too have a big cam, I cannot tell what it is, but i might be an Edelbrock one.
part of the RPM performer package, i believe....
 

Pbum5

Member
Oct 27, 2004
515
0
17
Minneapolis, MN
Dec 20, 2005
#17
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #17
gonzothegreat said:
I too have a big cam, I cannot tell what it is, but i might be an Edelbrock one.
part of the RPM performer package, i believe....
Click to expand...


Big Cams and press in studs are not a good combo.

Screw in studs, guide plates should be a must for a “big” cam.

Especially if you plan on revving it to the cams limits.

I smacked up some pushrods when I revved my motor at about 6,500.

After that I upgraded my valve train, and cam and it solved the problem.
 

gonzothegreat

Member
May 4, 2004
421
1
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London (uk)
Dec 20, 2005
#18
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #18
I am thinking of the upgrade, I just need to check how much it will cost me.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Dec 20, 2005
#19
  • Dec 20, 2005
  • #19
gonzothegreat said:
I am thinking of the upgrade, I just need to check how much it will cost me.
Click to expand...
There's probably no one here that can figure that for you, with you being "across the pond" You'll need to locate someone there to do the machinework to install the screw in studs. You'll then need the studs, rockers, guideplates & pushrods. May as well go for 7/16"--1.7 ratio rockers, if buying new, they cost the same as the more common 3/8"--1.6 ratio, but you'll have stronger studs with increased lift at the valve.
 
3

351carlo

New Member
Mar 9, 2004
267
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0
Philadelphia
Dec 21, 2005
#20
  • Dec 21, 2005
  • #20
Do yourself a favor and get the work done. The last thing you want to do is
a) Break a stud with a big lift high rev cam
b) Pull a stud
c) break a stock rocker

Please go out and get a nice 7/16 ARP Stud with Guideplates, some Crane roller rockers and get the machine work done.

I'm also slightly dissapointed with the misinformation being given out here. There's not even a slight chance of that being a pedestal mount rocker. The base of the stud is clearly visible and in no way resembles a pedestal mount rocker system.

http://reincarnation-automotive.com/pedestal-mods-page-2-before-after.html

Take a look at a before and after of what a pedestal mount looks like. Note the rectangular notch in the boss for the stud. This is where the ''pedestal'' is derived from.
 
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