roller rockers help

[gonzothegreat]

Hi guys,

This is what I have at the moment:

I would like to go for something like those:

The studs on my 302 head are 5/16" and I cannot find roller rockers for it amnit: any help will be appreciated

What do I need to do?

 

[jerry S]

Hi guys,

The studs on my 302 head are 5/16" and I cannot find roller rockers for it amnit: any help will be appreciated

What do I need to do?

verify that you have stud mount and not pedestal mount rockers. I suspect the latter.

 

[The Dan]

I would think the easiest thing to do is swap out the studs to 3/8" or 7/16" Finding 5/16" as you stated will probably prove difficult, and if you do find them, their such an odd size that they'll probably cost a bit more due to low production quantities. My .02

 

[gonzothegreat]

I would think the easiest thing to do is swap out the studs to 3/8" or 7/16"

is that something difficult to do?

 

[The Dan]

No. The base of the studs should be the same as what you currently have. It is the upper part of the stud that will measure 3/8" or 7/16" and that is what will determine the roller rocker size you go with. You should be able to order a set of ARP studs, what ever size you want, take your old studs out, screw your new one's in, set your roller rockers over the top of them, set the valve lash and be on your way. Just verify the torque specs when installing the new studs. For Alum. it is 45 ft lbs, I don't know what it is for iron.

 

[The Dan]

Actually, looking at your pic I'm pretty sure jerry is right, looks like pedistal mounts. Just order pedistal mount roller rockers...I think comps makes a nice set for pedistal applications.

 

[thehueypilot]

You have pressed in studs. I have known of some drag racers the try to use press in studs with roller rockers with bad results. (They will pull out under extreme use) The 5/16 inch studs are used in mostly pedestal applications like Jerry stated so if you go to the trouble of changing the stud size you might as well go with screw in studs which will require machining.

 

[fasttback]

Also note you have Ford rail rockers on your current head. If you go with any other stud-type roller rocker you will have to add guide plates and hardened push rods. And the guide plates require screw-in studs to hold them down.

 

[gonzothegreat]

I guess that's a lot of work..... and some $$$$

 

[Max Power]

Yup, those look like press-ins. You will need to remove the heads to tap for screw-ins, get guide plates, get hardened pushrods and of course the rockers.

You won't see any real gains for the money spent, especially with stock heads.

 

[gonzothegreat]

You won't see any real gains for the money spent, especially with stock heads.

I am not really looking for extra power, I just need a quieter valve train.
And the heads are ported, might not be as good as a pair of AFR, but my diy porting as made a night and day difference on the engine overall performance
.

 

[D.Hearne]

I second and third the motion, you've got pressed in studs and rail rockers. Definately not pedestal, for sure not screw ins. You'll need screw in studs, guide plates, new pushrods and then a set of roller rockers. You will not get a quieter valve train after all this. It WILL give you some extra power, from the reduced friction and if you go with 1.7 ratio rockers, you'll pick up a few extra ponies from the increased lift at the valve. Will it be worth the expense and effort? You'll likely not feel it in the seat of the pants meter, you would see some gains on a dyno of about 10-15 hp.

 

[jerry S]

Should he do it? It depends on if he has a paxton blower on that car or not. If he does, then he should definitely put in new studs. He should go with 7/16 top and bottom. These are $40. Guideplates are another $30. Pushrods can go anywhere from $50 to $130. All very much worth doing if he has a blower on that car. Sooner or later, he will need these upgrades and I say better now then after something goes snap, crackle, pop. (Ounce of prevention and all that).

As it turns out. I have some brand new screw in studs, 7/16 bottom and 3/8 top, and brand new guideplates I will sell at cost (thus eating the duty and overseas shipping expenses). I also have some comp cams roller tip roller rockers I can sell (50 miles on them).

 

[jerry S]

You have pressed in studs. I have known of some drag racers the try to use press in studs with roller rockers with bad results. (They will pull out under extreme use) The 5/16 inch studs are used in mostly pedestal applications like Jerry stated so if you go to the trouble of changing the stud size you might as well go with screw in studs which will require machining.

There was no picture when I loaded the page so I guessed based on the size he indicated. Now that I see the picture, I see exactly what he has. I too know of a fellow who was running a big cam on pressed-in studs only to have everything break loose on a remote stretch of road.

 

[gonzothegreat]

Should he do it? It depends on if he has a paxton blower on that car or not. If he does, then he should definitely put in new studs.

yes m8, I have a SN93 but it's not yet installed, it's on a shelve in my garage.
here it is, just for the fun:

 

[gonzothegreat]

There was no picture when I loaded the page so I guessed based on the size he indicated. Now that I see the picture, I see exactly what he has. I too know of a fellow who was running a big cam on pressed-in studs only to have everything break loose on a remote stretch of road.

I too have a big cam, I cannot tell what it is, but i might be an Edelbrock one.
part of the RPM performer package, i believe....

 

[Pbum5]

I too have a big cam, I cannot tell what it is, but i might be an Edelbrock one.
part of the RPM performer package, i believe....

Big Cams and press in studs are not a good combo.

Screw in studs, guide plates should be a must for a “big” cam.

Especially if you plan on revving it to the cams limits.

I smacked up some pushrods when I revved my motor at about 6,500.

After that I upgraded my valve train, and cam and it solved the problem.

 

[gonzothegreat]

I am thinking of the upgrade, I just need to check how much it will cost me.

 

[D.Hearne]

I am thinking of the upgrade, I just need to check how much it will cost me.

There's probably no one here that can figure that for you, with you being "across the pond" You'll need to locate someone there to do the machinework to install the screw in studs. You'll then need the studs, rockers, guideplates & pushrods. May as well go for 7/16"--1.7 ratio rockers, if buying new, they cost the same as the more common 3/8"--1.6 ratio, but you'll have stronger studs with increased lift at the valve.

 

[351carlo]

Do yourself a favor and get the work done. The last thing you want to do is
a) Break a stud with a big lift high rev cam
b) Pull a stud
c) break a stock rocker

Please go out and get a nice 7/16 ARP Stud with Guideplates, some Crane roller rockers and get the machine work done.

I'm also slightly dissapointed with the misinformation being given out here. There's not even a slight chance of that being a pedestal mount rocker. The base of the stud is clearly visible and in no way resembles a pedestal mount rocker system.

http://reincarnation-automotive.com/pedestal-mods-page-2-before-after.html

Take a look at a before and after of what a pedestal mount looks like. Note the rectangular notch in the boss for the stud. This is where the ''pedestal'' is derived from.