Rough Idle and popping on Passinger side

Timm10221

New Member
Aug 29, 2006
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Ever Since I put my long tubes on I have had this problem :bang: of a very rough idle and when I try to accel and i give it gas it back fires on my passinger side 2 to 6 time then picks up real fast and accels. then at any crusing speed the whole car is jumpy. I have already replaced the spark plug wires and plugs, cleaned the MAF sensor used electrical cleaner on several other connections. I dont know if it would be a bad TPS, Oxygen sensor, EGR, MAP sensor or even vacuum lines. When I did the headers i removed the throttle body down, starter and rised the engine and installed them. after that I noticed I broke a couple of vacuum lines and fixed them. I really dont know what to do, I wanted to see if yall could help me before i take her in. Thank you all for your help in advance!!! :SNSign:
Tim
 
Tim, I'd get it to act up and run codes and a cylinder balance test. This can help folks to determine the source of issue.

I have to ask: Are you real sure that two plug wires aren't crossed?

Good luck.
 
What is the order they go on the Distributer cap. and the fireing order and i will check that tomarrow morning! thanks for your help

Courtesy of Daggar:

firingorder6wp.webp
 

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Everything Is in the right order, what problems do you get when your oxygen sensor goes or your tps or map,,, if i can relate what you guys say on the problems that happen when they go to mine then i will get new sensors. I suspect the oxygen is bad, I didnt get new ones when i did the swap, and they have around 100K on them. but give me some of the symptoms that happens when certain sensors go
 
Just to let ya know, I've seen your last reply but cant help. The 94-95's seem to run a lot differently than the foxes when the O2's take a poop. On a fox, it can go into a nice fat FMEM and run awesome. With 94-95's, guys have all sorts of issues.

I've seen the savvy tuning folks set their idle up in open loop if there is an issue with the O2's cooling while idling - Grady and others are the ones to ask about that if you think it can be an issue).

You can use a DMM to check the amplitude and frequency of O2 switching (~0.05 to ~0.95 volts, a couple times a second).

You don't have a MAP sensor - that's on SD cars. And on 94-95 processors, the BAP (the equivilant sensory input of a MAP for mass-air-cars) is integral to the computer. Said another way, it's not a sensor you can replace separately.


You noted it all started with the LT's so that's where I'd look (namely the O2 aspect, if the LT crowd agrees).

Good luck.
 
yea, thanks for your help.. I took my car tonight to a buddy of mines dad who has a shop and we looked at it and tried to pull code ect. the computer wouldn't give us anything and was being stuborn lol, we finally got to pull info that the comp was putting out, and it gave some funkie readings on the O2's, Also the timing was set at 8!!! so we bumped that up to 14 and cleaned the mass air sensor, I have to get new o2s and we are going to drill and weld on a new o2 bug in a different spot so they arent rubbing against the tranny pan. and we also found some new issues, and light tranny leak in the front seal, so When i put together some money I am going to have him do that, he said hell while your at it buy a performance converter since i have to take the tranny out. which leads me to which converter to get. i know i want a 3000 stall but what brand and all that. so after all that she should be running better. "i hope" Thanks for your help
Tim
 
Tim, sheesh, that sure snowballed in a nasty way (regarding the dent to your wallet - the converter alone is gonna cost). That's how it goes though.

If you've ever wanted a manual trans, consider the cost of doing a conversion vs buying a converter and resealing the auto trans you have (just in case that sounds appealing)

Will (Drakesdad) and some of the automatic-trans-savvy guys can help you with the stall decision.

Good luck with it and bump for ya.