RPM guage off whack

fspilot1971 · May 10, 2007

I have a problem with my RPM gauge....when you start the car 50% of the time it starts reading at 2500 RPMs. I asked a few months ago what it could be, and someone mentioned the ignition module, I replaced it, I still have the problem...

I am guessing it's the gauge cluster....how do I replace that?

goland55 · May 10, 2007

Mine does the same thing. It'll peg to 3000rpm and rev up from there sometimes. I was thinking the ignition module but since you already replaced that it could be the gauge itself.

Getting the instrument panel out isn't too difficult. There's some torx screws holding the instrument panel cover thingy on I think and then a few more holding the instrument panel on under that. Might be a few more screws but you should be able to see them easily enough. When you pull the instrument panel out the speedometer cable will probably want to stay attached. You'll need to squeeze the plastic collar around the end of the cable to get the cable off the gauge. There's a couple electrical harnesses that need to be pulled off too.

I'm kinda curious now as to whether replacing the ignition module will fix my car...hmm.

fspilot1971 · May 10, 2007

So basically....are the ignition module and the cluster the only 2 things that can be the cause of the problem?

The other thing that is bothering me is that the turn signals don't blink, but the hazard lights do blink.....I replaced the flasher but it didn't work.

I still have the new ignition module in the car.....since I already replaced it, should I just leave it or exchange it and get a refund......the car has 110,000 miles on it....is the module something I will need to replace in the near future anyways?

goland55 · May 10, 2007

It's not really rare for the ignition module to go bad but they are fairly expensive...I suppose it depends how tight on money you are.

Do the turn signal indicators blink in the dash? I had an issue where a wire popped out the back of the wiring harness for the multifunction switch on the steering column. It caused my turn signals to not work at all and the indicators not to light up in the dash either. I superglued the wire back into the harness and haven't had a problem since.

fspilot1971 · May 10, 2007

I think I will keep it in there....when I removed the old one, I noticed the silicone grease wasn't put on there very generously, besides, that's the first time I ever did any work under the hood, so I am really proud...LOL .

The turn signal doesn't blink on the dash or on the light it's self.

izzleon · May 10, 2007

guage problem

fspilot1971 said:
I have a problem with my RPM gauge....when you start the car 50% of the time it starts reading at 2500 RPMs. I asked a few months ago what it could be, and someone mentioned the ignition module, I replaced it, I still have the problem...

I am guessing it's the gauge cluster....how do I replace that?

are u still having trouble with ur tach? i know what it is. open it up and re soldier ur tach. the sodldier for the tach resister crack and starts loosing contact try that and then reply.

vegeta_nc · May 11, 2007

"The turn signal doesn't blink on the dash or on the light it's self."

I had this problem, it was funny the way I got it working for me. Sometimes it was the way my key was turned. Like when the car was running, I moved the key forward and back just a little and the turn signals would work. I asked a tech about this and he said it was the ignition switch around the steering coloum. I think there was 2 of them. I think mine was the one twords the bottom of the steering wheel.

fspilot1971 · May 12, 2007

I will try that...and let everyone know.

Ok another question.....I had an oil leak...everyone kept saying it was the "rear main seal" so after $450 it was replaced , it kept leaking . The mechanic then told me it was the head gasket instead. I said at this point I won't shell out another $700 to replace a head gasket. 2000 miles and 6 months later the leak has stopped......anyone have any theories?

I am sorry if I have so many questions....it's just that I am trying to learn the most I can about the car because I am tired of mechanics screwing me out of my hard earned $.

goland55 · May 12, 2007

Where was the oil level at when it stopped leaking? Was it full or did it only stop after it got a little low? Was it a big leak?

A bunch of things could have happened. It's possible the valve cover gasket (or some other oil seal) sprung a small leak but then some engine sludge gunked the hole up thus sealing it (not particularly a bad thing). Or....You could have a sticky pcv valve that was causing the crankcase to pressurize and leak but perhaps the valve has since become unstuck (temporarily though). There's more possibilities but those are just some scenarios I could come up with off the top of my head.

Don't worry about asking too many questions. The more you learn the more valuable you are to the community. I ran into the same thing when I was younger with mechanics. Like they say: "If you want it done right, do it yourself".

fspilot1971 · May 13, 2007

well...when I got the car it didn't have an oil leak....it started about 1000 miles, 3 months later and when I changed to synthetic Mobil1 10w40. It was always a "drop" when I would use and then stop the car. It has been about 2000 miles and 6 months since I got the rear main seal replaced (I am not sure if that might mean anything). I had the valve cover seal replaced about 2 years ago...it wasn't that. The pressure has always been at the same level....a little over than half, I believe.

My mechanic did tell me, last time I went in for an oil change, that now it was really obvious that it was the main head seal......and right after he said that the leak stopped .....it hasn't leaked a drop in 2 months and 400 miles. I don't drive it much, only around town and when I do, it's stop and go....so it should have leaked by now....I never had to add oil between oil changes, apparently it was never enough of a loss to actually notice it on the dip stick. This last oil change, I did change to synthetic Mobil1 10w40 extended performance for 15,000 miles or 1 year.

goland55 · May 13, 2007

The change to synthetic probably was the cause of the leak. Synthetic oil tends to 'clean' an engine. After an engine gets some miles on it it'll develop little leaks that'll get gunked up and then sealed. The synthetic will sometimes clean the gunk off and cause leaks to reappear. I suppose if you use the synthetic for long enough it may seal back up with some more stubborn gunk (though I'm really not sure about this). Whatever the case, if it's not leaking any more then I would just keep it in mind and drive it.

RPM guage off whack

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