Running Warm and Strang Oil Pres

fiveohh94gt · May 24, 2006

Running Warm and Strange Oil Pres

the last couple days it has been in the 90's and my car has been running warmer than usual. it runs around 205* with the a/c OFF, but when i turn the a/c on it goes up to around 220* according to the autometer guage. checked the voltage of the fan and both high and low are getting voltage, just the fan doesnt seem to go a lot faster on high than low. could it be the fan motor or possible the waterpump? The other problem is the oil pressure. idle and cruising oil pres are great, approx 40psi warm idle and 50-55psi cruising, but at high RPM under load the oil pres will go up to around 70psi and then start bouncing back down to around 50psi. is the oil pump going out or am i sucking the pan dry? Any thoughts of what the problems could be are greatly appreciated, sorry for the book (can a mod correct the spelling of "strange" in the title for me please?)

mo_dingo · May 24, 2006

fiveohh94gt said:
the last couple days it has been in the 90's and my car has been running warmer than usual. it runs around 205* with the a/c OFF, but when i turn the a/c on it goes up to around 220* according to the autometer guage. checked the voltage of the fan and both high and low are getting voltage, just the fan doesnt seem to go a lot faster on high than low. could it be the fan motor or possible the waterpump? The other problem is the oil pressure. idle and cruising oil pres are great, approx 40psi warm idle and 50-55psi cruising, but at high RPM under load the oil pres will go up to around 70psi and then start bouncing back down to around 50psi. is the oil pump going out or am i sucking the pan dry? Any thoughts of what the problems could be are greatly appreciated, sorry for the book (can a mod correct the spelling of "strange" in the title for me please?)

220 is expected with the extra heat running the a/c. The condenser is getting really hot from the a/c compressor heating up the refridgerant, which accounts for the extra heat, since the fan sucks air across it as well.

AFAIK, the high speed fan should come on automatically when you turn the a/c on. I may be wrong, someone please correct me if I am. If it doesn't change speed at all, you MAY have a problem.

Have you checked the engine oil level (oil psi problem)?
Scott

HISSIN50 · May 24, 2006

How hot is it where you live?

I've been doing a good bit of research on the EDF circuitry because my AC doesnt kick high speed on. Post if you do some rudimentary testing and wonder about what you're seeing.

A quick test also can be to run a fused jumper wire to the high speed fan terminal (the bottom terminal IIRC) and see if the fan spins faster that way than it does when controlled through the CCRM. I say this because high should be noteably faster than low (yours doesnt sound like it is). But if both speeds are engaged, it's real goofy and in between (as it shortens the life of the motor).

Good luck.

PS: if anyone who knows what the inside of the EDF relay control looks like, or has a write up of how it switches, please let me know (my info shows it being a solid state gizmo, so I cant infer how it works). Ditto for info on how to simulate the low speed fan being off (what do the puter and EDF control relay do - ground or go to 12 volts to shut off the fan).
Sorry for that, but I figured you had the audience and I could piggyback ya. The info might help in your situation
Good luck.

fiveohh94gt · May 25, 2006

which wires are the high/low/ground on the fan plug. my haynes manuel only says that there should be two but there are three and a diagram i found online was showing the middle wire to be ground but it seems to be the low speed. when low speed should have been on i had 13.8 volts on the middle wire and when i flipped the a/c on i had nothing in the middle and 13.8 on one of the outside wires. i ohm tested the other wire to make sure it was ground and it had minimal resistance to the chassis. this seems to be working properly, but after i plugged the fan back in it was running on low speed and i heard it kick on to high speed but it didnt seem to be moving anymore air which makes me wonder if the motor is on its way out. think a fluidyne would help the situation any? because i dont like 220* with aluminum heads
about the oil pressure, it is completly full of oil. i just changed the oil and i added about half a quart extra yesterday because i thought that i might have been sucking the pan dry at higher RPM's but it didnt seem to change anything. could the oil pump drive shaft be rounded off and slipping at higher RPM's?? is that even a possibility? (sorry for writing another book)

HISSIN50 · May 25, 2006

For the fan stuff, your fan is how mine is (top terminal is ground, middle is low, bottom is high speed).

If your car cools off ok once at speed (40 MPH+), the radiator would seem to be capable of rejecting enough heat.

There should be a very noticable rise in fan speed with high speed on - it's quite an audible change.

I know that doesnt help much - just commentary on your observations.

What's the bypass setting on your oil pump?

Good luck.

fiveohh94gt · May 25, 2006

it doesnt cool down at highway speed, with air on it climbs to ~215* at speed or in stop and go traffic

bypass pressure???? tell me more........

fiveohh94gt · May 25, 2006

to keep this thing closer to 180* would i be better putting in a fluidyne radiator or a viper fan with a DCC fan controller? also, does anyone know the amp draw (low and high speed) on the stock 94-95 fan?

mo_dingo · May 25, 2006

fiveohh94gt said:
to keep this thing closer to 180* would i be better putting in a fluidyne radiator or a viper fan with a DCC fan controller? also, does anyone know the amp draw (low and high speed) on the stock 94-95 fan?

I think seeing anywhere near 180* is unrealistic while running the a/c during the summer time. Be happy with 210-220.

For the record a 3 core radiator would do wonders, as well as a high flow water pump.

When was the last time you changed your coolant?
Scott

fiveohh94gt · May 25, 2006

coolant was changed last summer when i did the h/c/i swap. with aluminum heads is ~220* really safe? with the heatsoak after you shut the car off it goes up to around 230 before it starts cooling down

HISSIN50 · May 25, 2006

Radiator time. It doesnt sound like you can reject enough heat. You should be able to run at 190-195*F in 100* temps with AC on.

I would do a radiator (and controller if desired. I just placed an order with Brian this week) before a new fan, if your fan works. You dont appear to be able to reject enough heat right now, no matter how big a fan you have (read you need the radiator first).

My two cents. Good luck.

fiveohh94gt · May 25, 2006

probably order a fluidyne tomarrow, anyone find them for cheaper that $322 ???

HISSIN50 · May 25, 2006

If you dont mind a little fabbing, you could do a universal for half that price..............

bill302 · May 26, 2006

i'm having a similar problem the last few days with my stang when temps climb above 90* and i have determined the problem is with underdrive pulleys i reinstalled factory alternator pulley i got from a local alternator shop because i sold my old one and problem solved.... i determined with the hot weather conditions the fan is running alot and draining the electrical system especially at idle and the my fan would do as you indicated above.

fiveohh94gt · May 26, 2006

i dont mind the fabbing at all on a universal but my concern is that it wont clear a supercharger and that is in the plans hopefully by the end of the year. will it clear, because i think i remember reading somewhere that it wouldnt

underdrives where on the car when i bought it, i know some people have cooling problems with them but that would only be a concern at idle and stop and go wouldnt it? mine does it at highway speed too

i got another guage from a tech at work so i'm about to go out to the garage and hook it up and see if maybe just my oil pressure guage is screwing up.

HISSIN50 · May 26, 2006

fiveohh94gt said:
underdrives ........... but that would only be a concern at idle and stop and go wouldnt it? mine does it at highway speed too

This is correct. The only way U/D's can be considered at speed is if you were able to drive around at ~1200 RPM or under while on the highway.

Dont know about the universal vs application-specific radiator - you are very very likely to be right about the universal hanging out more (I havent seen that Fluidyne since I'm poor. ).

Good luck.

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