rusted bolts...losing patience

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hawkeye5.0

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Apr 2, 2002

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Feb 4, 2004

#1

• Feb 4, 2004

• #1

Need to change out the h-pipe and have some rust issues. Been using the usual WD-40 but was wondering if anyone had a trick for getting the connections loose. I sectioned the bolts connecting the cat-back but don't want to do the same to the shorties.

 

swingline

New Member

Sep 18, 2003

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TCB - Taking Care of Business

Feb 4, 2004

#2

• Feb 4, 2004

• #2

Impact wrench.

 

balderman

New Member

Dec 6, 2002

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Spring City, PA

Feb 4, 2004

#3

• Feb 4, 2004

• #3

hawkeye5.0 said:

Need to change out the h-pipe and have some rust issues. Been using the usual WD-40 but was wondering if anyone had a trick for getting the connections loose. I sectioned the bolts connecting the cat-back but don't want to do the same to the shorties.

Click to expand...

Get yourself some PB lubricant spray. get a wire brush and scrub around the nuts.. then spray on the PB Lub, let it sit for a few minutes. Then take a hammer and light strike the nut. This will help loosen the rust. give it another spray of the PB lub and try getting it off again. Thats how I got mine off.. it may take a couple of times.. but they will eventually come off.

 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

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Boca Raton, Florida

Feb 4, 2004

#4

• Feb 4, 2004

• #4

I did a Prochamber on my neighbors 95 last month. He sprayed the bolts down the night before. I had to use breaker bar with the 1/2 inch ratchet. Get a 18 inch long peice of metal. I used my 3 ton jack handle.

 

1105

I AM the random post master...bow down

May 3, 2003

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Daytona Bch, FL

Feb 4, 2004

#5

• Feb 4, 2004

• #5

If you have an impact wrench then use that. Should make short work out of thoes bolts.

 

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94whitesnake

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Mar 20, 2002

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Allentown, PA

Feb 4, 2004

#6

• Feb 4, 2004

• #6

1105 said:

If you have an impact wrench then use that. Should make short work out of thoes bolts.

Click to expand...

I agree, but you should still lube them up the day before. I tried to take them off with an impact and ended up twisting half the stud off. OH, and if you do have an impact, get a bunch of extentions and a CV joint for it.

 

GTJake

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Oct 28, 2002

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Ann Arbor, MI

Feb 4, 2004

#7

• Feb 4, 2004

• #7

On my 94 V6 I had to sit there with the impact gun going for about 5 minutes before it finally snapped loose. On my 94 GT I got them off with a 3/8 ratchet.....

Jake

 

cb18201

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Oct 25, 2003

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Feb 4, 2004

#8

• Feb 4, 2004

• #8

whatever you do make sure you get new studs , do not use the same header to h-pipe studs again, when i did my hpipe i replaced all of them so i wont have to deal with it again.

 

1105

I AM the random post master...bow down

May 3, 2003

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Daytona Bch, FL

Feb 4, 2004

#9

• Feb 4, 2004

• #9

I got all new hardware with my exhaust when I bought it.

Also try some ZEP 45 if nothing else works... That stuff works magic for me.

 

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hawkeye5.0

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Apr 2, 2002

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Feb 4, 2004

#10

• Feb 4, 2004

• #10

I don't have an impact wrench. If all else fails I'm going to have to buy one I suppose.

 

ajc7755

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Jul 2, 2002

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Lenexa, KS

Feb 4, 2004

#11

• Feb 4, 2004

• #11

I got frustrated with mine as well as I had no impact wrench and no leverage without a car lift so I just got out my sawzall and cut those pain in the *ss bolts in half. Once the pipes were off I was easily able to get the bolts out.

 

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hawkeye5.0

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Feb 4, 2004

#12

• Feb 4, 2004

• #12

Problem for me is that normally I can cut through the bolts with my dremel...but I have hardly any f*&(ing access to the bolts it seems. I'm just glad the weather has been horrible (lots of snow) so I just have the car up on stands in the garage...just keep spraying the bolts with WD40

 

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Stucker21trt

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Jan 4, 2003

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South Orange County, CA

Feb 10, 2004

#13

• Feb 10, 2004

• #13

Cutting? No No No...

Ya need to bring the heat. Take advantage of metals tendency to expand when it warms up.

What I do is to douse the bolt with my favorite penetrating lube (currently either PB Blaster or Gunks Liquid Wrench), then hit it with a nice long squirt with the propane torch. Make sure the flame is contacting the metal for best heat trasnfer. You can get parts to around 1,000 F if you keep the torch on it long enough. Try to warm the piece around the bolt you're trying to loosen, rather than going right for the bolt itself. After a good warm-up, quench the bolt with the penetrating oil. Lightly tapping with a wrench or hammer can help too, as previously mentioned. Rinse and repeat as necessary.

After one last heating stage, take you breaker bar, or box wrench w/BFH, or impact gun (in a perfect world) and try it. If it doesn't come off after about 5 minutes, then God Save The Queen. This has worked for me every time I have used it so far. Just remember that heat is your friend, and propane is cheap. It's also worth mentioning that if this method is used on any critical graded fasteners (i.e. suspension bits, lugs, brake components), the fastener should be replaced.

LIGHT IT UP BABY!!

-Steve

 

5.0 from 95

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Nov 6, 2001

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Emory, TX

Feb 10, 2004

#14

• Feb 10, 2004

• #14

What Steve said and if you do but an impact gun, buy one that is in the $80 and up range. The cheap ones are only good up to about 175#s and on a rusted car, that will frustrate you. Spend the $80 and get one that will go upto at least 450#s.


Paul