Safe Base Timing
- Thread starter Guero
- Start date
TrueBlue95GT
Member
Why don't you just set the timing to 10* and pull the spout out....Either way, if you don't press the accelerator hard, there will be no boost....
Because then it will run like complete crap. Hey I know I will wanna beat on it and I wont be able not to lol!!!!
I agree. Set base timing and then work your way up to around 12-14* if you want some extra pony's but remember 10* was set like that from the factory so you could run lower grades of pump gas. so if you go higher you will have to run 93+ octange.
I know I need I need a chip.... Im just asking while I save for the tweecer(a tuner) and have no other means of having safe timing. What should I set my base timing at? Im just gonna set it at 0 for now and see how it runs.
Bud .. With SPOUT disconnected you want to time it to 10* .. if you notice while the car is running if you plug the SPOUT back in .. your timing will advance to around 32*. Also if you keep that SPOUT out your timing will not ADVANCE what so ever it will stay at what ever you set the Base Timing to. With your Setup and 93 octange gas I would be running around 12* but stay at 10* if you plan on getting a chip/tune done on the car. Its much better if they adjust spark advance in the Computer than messing with the dizzy at all from what I have been told.
Installing the SPOUT connector doesnt add 22* at idle. I gain about 12* by adding the connector back in (YMMV).
I'd consider running locked timing at about 20* and add more as you see fit. I ran the NA '94 at 26* locked for a summer, for instance. There was not a lot of difference IMHO. You wont be wailing on the car till it's tuned anyhow (so you wont need every last ounce of power).
I betcha Wes has some advice on where to set it for now. That guy is constantly tuning and driving blown stuff these days.
I'd consider running locked timing at about 20* and add more as you see fit. I ran the NA '94 at 26* locked for a summer, for instance. There was not a lot of difference IMHO. You wont be wailing on the car till it's tuned anyhow (so you wont need every last ounce of power).
I betcha Wes has some advice on where to set it for now. That guy is constantly tuning and driving blown stuff these days.
OrangeMustangGt
Founding Member
i had great luck with a custom tune that gave me no more than 15 deg at wot@10 psi.....so yeah if you lock it out at 15 you will be fine with premium
GTA_V6_Mustang
Active Member
guero I think setting it at 5* base will be just fine. Different motors like different timing. Mine never likes running a lot of timing, tends to run better with less timing (on 87) and pulls stupid hard. Like right now I am at 6* with no issues.
I know nothing about running without the spout 
however
I have seen what the pcm can do with spark by using a Tweecer
Since you are gonna go in that direction ... Well
Learning to self tune ... It can be a bit over whelming
Here are my thoughts Mr. G
Boosted combos are nowhere as forgiving as NA
cause
With NA ... you hear a bit of the old ping thing ... you just back it down
but
With Boost ... you very well could have already blown a hg
I'd advise you to do a 3 step plan in this order
1) Get a wide band so you know your T R U E ratio :Word:
2) Using datalogs for verification ............
Know how to manipulate your fuel table fat and spark table small
3) Make small ... did you see the word ........... S M A L L
adjustments in the tables to find what you particular combo likes
To be very blunt
The idea here is .....................
Knowing how to make that silver box do your bidding on fuel and spark
That is your #1 priority
Making max WOT power ... it comes way ... way ... behind that priority :Word:
or
I see you becoming very efficient at SBF hg changes
Start conservative
Stay safe ... then ... Go for the power
There is GREAT PEACE OF MIND
when
You ... KNOW ... you know what you are doing
Grady
however
I have seen what the pcm can do with spark by using a Tweecer
Since you are gonna go in that direction ... Well
Learning to self tune ... It can be a bit over whelming
Here are my thoughts Mr. G
Boosted combos are nowhere as forgiving as NA
cause
With NA ... you hear a bit of the old ping thing ... you just back it down
but
With Boost ... you very well could have already blown a hg
I'd advise you to do a 3 step plan in this order
1) Get a wide band so you know your T R U E ratio :Word:
2) Using datalogs for verification ............
Know how to manipulate your fuel table fat and spark table small
3) Make small ... did you see the word ........... S M A L L
adjustments in the tables to find what you particular combo likes
To be very blunt
The idea here is .....................
Knowing how to make that silver box do your bidding on fuel and spark
That is your #1 priority
Making max WOT power ... it comes way ... way ... behind that priority :Word:
or
I see you becoming very efficient at SBF hg changes
Start conservative
Stay safe ... then ... Go for the power
There is GREAT PEACE OF MIND
when
You ... KNOW ... you know what you are doing
Grady
GTA_V6_Mustang
Active Member
If I can bring a tuning and OEM-preset degree to the table. Ideal pressure to happen is hang that piston there until 10° and that is all she wrote on the N/A.
For boostears with some blade behind the exhaust, you need to retard because you boost the air in and that takes more time to burn. So retard to start is advance till you knock/det/ping is set the timing back 1 or 2° is about how you play the ignition game. Fuel to air is something else is that little advance window is 10° is N/A and that is about as hot rod as it gets is why the factory had that number on the carb is hot rod to 10° is NASCAR ideal tuning; while boost is less in degree is dare I repeat why.
For boostears with some blade behind the exhaust, you need to retard because you boost the air in and that takes more time to burn. So retard to start is advance till you knock/det/ping is set the timing back 1 or 2° is about how you play the ignition game. Fuel to air is something else is that little advance window is 10° is N/A and that is about as hot rod as it gets is why the factory had that number on the carb is hot rod to 10° is NASCAR ideal tuning; while boost is less in degree is dare I repeat why.
I do have a wide band already!!
Thats Great
Until you get all setup to tune
I think your idea of keeping the spark low is a very wise move
Grady
