Safe upgrade path for 88 LX 5.0

a good h/c/i combo with 70mm tb and 80mm maf should put u up there to it.

You'll need a mass air conversion to benefit most from an aluminum head swap. Cam will depend on heads, althought the stock cam can be used either way. Roller rockers either 1.6 or 1.7. 24lb injectors and an upgraded fuel pump too. Either a ported stock lower or an Explorer Gt 40, Edelbrock Performer 5.0 would be a good intake choice. Throw on an X or H pipe along with some better mufflers and you'll be good to go.

Dont know what heads you have, if they are AFR 165's, they would be perfect. Those along with an intake (edelbrock/trick flow/holley) and a nice cam would be good. Convert to mass air and get the right fuel and throttle body and you should be good to go. You could stroke the motor, but thats a whole different ball game financially.

Your first mods should be as follows (my take):

In order of Priority
1) Subframe connectors (SFC's) full length ones are prefered
2) Gears: 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 seem to be the popular choices
3) Buy a K&N panel filter (no CAI kit required) and put it in the stock box
4) Exhuast (headers, hi-flo cats, mufflers)
5) 3G alt upgrade / electric fan
6) Larger MAF, TB (your car will be speed density so skip the MAF part of this)
7) Fix the weak brakes

After those, it's pretty much up to you. There are plenty of Super Chargers or Heads, Cam and Intake packages to choose from.

Also, don't forget about the basic tune up which should include:
1) Changing all of the fluids (oil, coolant, trans, rear end, brake and some of the power steering)
2) Plugs: (non-platnum type) Autolite or Motorcraft
3) Oil filter: Motorcraft or equivalent (not FRAM)
4) Air filter: see above
5) Plug wires: Ford Motorsport (FRPP) 9mm units are great
6) Cap / Rotor
7) Oxygen sensors


Edit: If you are new to the Fox body mustang you can also look at my tips thread to understand all of the common problems associated with these cars. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=573378

350 rwhp with just HCI may be a little hard to get with a stock bottom end and NA.

But you can definately hit 330 RWHP with AFR 165s, holley systemax intake manifold, 24 lbs injectors, 255 LPH in take fuel pump, 70mm Throttle body and you should convert to MAF just for ease of tuning. When you do convert, get an 80mm PRO-M not C&L.

Also get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (kirban). and a good exhaust, DONT get shorty headers, you want every ounce of power out of this engine because you dont want power adders.

And when you are finally done order a custom cam specifically ground for this combo of parts, you should be at 330+ RWHP.

save the $$ from the mass air conversion, and just switch to carbed. you already own 2 carbed cars, so you have lots of experience.

Get the full eddy set up, heads, cam, carb and intake............you should be good for 350 RWHP with a good exhaust system

But go over the car with a fine tooth comb, check for straightness, and holes.

I personally would modify the suspension, and frame (uni-body) first, and make sure that can handle the power

Duro

cradicg said:

1. LX 5.0 stock brakes are good upto 400 HP.

2. The stock 88 5.0 block is good upto 400 HP.

3. The stock automatic tranny can not handle over 250 HP.

3a. Will a 3.73 gear and an auto tranny have me sucking gas at high RPM cruising on the interstate (75 MPH)?

4. 4 Lug wheels will fail if you go past 300 HP.

Click to expand...

Answers (again, my take):
1) The stock brakes are not going to fail at a given HP. They fail when you try to stop from 100MPH in a hurry. The heat generated from the friction causes the rotors to crack. This is the failure. So as long as you are easy on the brakes while you upgrade other parts, you will be OK. There are some cheap ways to improve the stock setup. JRichker has all of that information.

2) I am comfertable @ 400RWHP. Some people get by @ 450RWHP. Anything above 425RWHP is where I would start to worry about splitting the block in half. Also, it's worth mentioning that all of the 2 bolt blocks will split above this power level. A Dart / World products 4 bolt block is the best choice at this time for higher levels

3) For now your stock AOD will be fine. After you finish the basic upgrades, you can have it rebuilt / shift-kitted / stall converter - afied and it will handle everything that stock block can.

3a) 3.73's or even 4.10's (for the AOD) will not hurt your gas mileage. I won't get into a leghty discussion, but the increase in the rear end ratio will make it so the engine doesn't have to work as hard to get up to speed

4) Again, the 4-lug wheels will be able to handle just about anything that you can throw at a street driven car. They will not fail at a given HP rating. The only down side to running 4-lug is lack of aftermarket wheel selection. True, there is less of a safety factor with only 4 lugs holding the wheel to the hub, but I highly doubt that they will fail unless you forget to tighten the lugs and you drive around on a loose wheel.