Salt & Pepper Shaker Wire Sizes And New Connectors

[FoMoCo17]

After building and installing a forged 306, my old electrical gremlins have shown there head! Two most notably afeter many hours of checking are the TFI ignition module and the two (2) ten (10)salt & pepper shaker connectors. I have repeatedly found intermittents with these two components after chasing & checking everything else under the sun. Now I have to get the bugs out. As far as the salt & pepper shaker connections ... I cleaned them and seperated the terminals several times to get the best fit and still being able to connect them ... however, I am constantly coming back and twisting the connector only to have the engine run better or worse ... these connectors are a major problem and probably a cause of so many peoples problems on here. Does anyone know what range all of the wire sizes are that connect to these connectors (for sure)? I know the main power feed is larger than the surrounding wire but do not know the sizes. This would be helpful in looking for new connectors that will fit the wires. And also, can anyone make a good recommendation of premium automotive wire connectors that would work in this particualr area? Has anyone already tackled this project? I think if I put some quality connectors on here the intermittent problems should be taken care of once and for all! Thanks for your help!

 

[ike34]

Im in the process of clean up my engine bay and tucking my engine harness. I eliminated the salt and pepper shakers with metripack connectors. The wires are either 16 or 18 gauge and I think 12 for the center main ones. I used the metripack connectors for everything but the middle ones, I used a seperate 2 pin connector for them. Here is a link to the 10 pin metripack I used.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=932

 

[FoMoCo17]

Thanks ... looks like you made a good choice on connectors and housing them larger wires in connectors. After looking around I have decided I am going to just solder them together then apply liquid electrical tape and then heat shrink tubing then wrap it all up with electrical tape. Just didn't want to experience any intermittents whatsoever again from these connectors. Looks like your setup would eliminate the problem also but so many times I find myself doing jobs 2-3 times because of failed products ... its simply crazy! Once their soldered I can forget they ever existed ... and the last few times I needed to remove the harness from the engine, I disconnected it and tie-wrapped it to the firewall so I am not even disconnecting them when doing engine work.

BTW ... had any problems sealing up those E7 heads under boost?