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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

sealing water pump and backing plate

  • Thread starter Thread starter calpolymustang
  • Start date Start date Dec 23, 2009
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calpolymustang

Member
Feb 1, 2004
217
0
16
Santa Rosa, CA
Dec 23, 2009
#1
  • Dec 23, 2009
  • #1
I'm wondering how most of you guys are sealing the water pump and backing plate.

WP installation attempt #1: FAIL
Installed pump with black permatex on both sides of backing plate. (between plate and timing cover, and between plate and WP). Upon pouring in the coolant, it started dripping

WP installation attempt #2: FAIL
Installed pump with felpro gasket between timing cover and backing plate, and just used black permatex between WP and backing plate. Upon pouring in the coolant, it started dripping AGAIN. Checked location and saw that its the driver side port into the timing cover. Tightened the bolts, but the leak is still there.

WP installation attempt #3: ?? Whats it going to take to get it sealed up?

I'm thinking I should use Permatex's 'The Right Stuff' on the timing cover side, but I'm still unclear about how to seal the backing plate to the pump.
 
M

mustangman1974

Member
Jan 17, 2004
463
0
16
Dec 23, 2009
#2
  • Dec 23, 2009
  • #2
I always use permatex blue. I also put a thin coat on both sides and let it tack up a bit. I also give the gasket a very lite coat on one side then install the cover between the gasket, and hand tighten the bolts. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and then tighten in a cross pattern with a torque wrench. I forgot the setting but I do know the first go around is almost nothing 10 ftlbs I think. Then I wait a bit longer and then torque to 5lbs less then max. I have always let the waterpump site for about 5 hours before putting water in it and over night before I put the radiator cap to build preasure.
 

Blue1965

New Member
Nov 10, 2009
14
0
0
Idaho
Dec 24, 2009
#3
  • Dec 24, 2009
  • #3
Are you sure the surfaces were clean? If there is oil on them the permatex cant do its job.
 
J

j69302

Active Member
Jan 31, 2006
325
1
29
Dec 24, 2009
#4
  • Dec 24, 2009
  • #4
i would check to see if the surfaces are flat and not warped.

There are also few different pumps/timing covers that have different shape ports. make sure all the ports line up correctly.

Ive always just put a little bit of the permatex on, not as a sealant, just enough to hold the gasket in place. bolted it up, filled it right away and never had an issue.
 

dcstang67

Member
May 26, 2008
127
1
19
Dec 24, 2009
#5
  • Dec 24, 2009
  • #5
I always put on a pump straight out of the box with felpro gasket between the pump and plate, felpro gasket between the plate and timing cover with a thin layer of Ultra Black RTV on both sides of gasket and make sure you put sealer on the threads of the 4 long bolts that are next to the water ports. Never had one leak, ever. Also make sure you have the right timing cover/water pump combination.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
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south louisiana
Dec 24, 2009
#6
  • Dec 24, 2009
  • #6
dcstang67 said:
I always put on a pump straight out of the box with felpro gasket between the pump and plate, felpro gasket between the plate and timing cover with a thin layer of Ultra Black RTV on both sides of gasket and make sure you put sealer on the threads of the 4 long bolts that are next to the water ports. Never had one leak, ever. Also make sure you have the right timing cover/water pump combination.
Click to expand...

I do the same thing, but prefer Permatex Ultra Blue. Use it on the bolt threads too.
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 24, 2009
#7
  • Dec 24, 2009
  • #7
I too put gaskets skinned with RTV between every sealing surface. I use Teflon head bolt sealer on the bolt threads.
 

Tanus

New Member
Dec 11, 2009
847
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0
A to the Z
Dec 25, 2009
#8
  • Dec 25, 2009
  • #8
dont forget to let it setup (like 10-15min) before putting it in place and bolting down.

By FAR the best gasket sealer, and Ive tried a lot of them, is "hondabond" get it at honda motorcyle shops
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 25, 2009
#9
  • Dec 25, 2009
  • #9
Yamabond 4 is the Yamaha equivalent. It's a gray, non-hardening rubber used for sealing powersport crankcase halves together. It seals well, yet is easy to scrape off.
 

Tanus

New Member
Dec 11, 2009
847
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0
A to the Z
Dec 25, 2009
#10
  • Dec 25, 2009
  • #10
65ShelbyClone said:
Yamabond 4 is the Yamaha equivalent. It's a gray, non-hardening rubber used for sealing powersport crankcase halves together. It seals well, yet is easy to scrape off.
Click to expand...

do you agree with me that it works much better than regular rtv?
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 25, 2009
#11
  • Dec 25, 2009
  • #11
I didn't say anything contrary, I was just offering up another equivalent sealer. Some people may be closer to a Yamaha bike shop than a Honda....like me.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Dec 25, 2009
#12
  • Dec 25, 2009
  • #12
i have never had any issues with either permatex rtv black, or permatex #2. a thin coat on both sides of the gasket and bolt the pump down. let it set up for about ten minutes before putting any coolant in. in your case though i would first check the gasket surfaces for flatness, and for any nicks that are deep enough that you can not only feel them with your finger nail but your fingernail gets hung up in the nicks. check the pump gasket surface also. as indicated, make sure the gasket surfaces are clean and dry before you put the gasket in place.
 
S

sparx

Member
Sep 2, 2009
369
1
19
Dec 26, 2009
#13
  • Dec 26, 2009
  • #13
I am approaching the installation of an Edelbrock water pump along with the timing cover on my engine.

The Edelbrock pump comes with a rubber gasket fit between the pump and backing plate. All advice I have received so far is to use NO sealer between the rubber gasket and backing plate.

What do you think?
sparx
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Dec 26, 2009
#14
  • Dec 26, 2009
  • #14
In my experience, RTV makes rubber gaskets slip and slide around even worse than cork without doing much to help sealing.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Dec 26, 2009
#15
  • Dec 26, 2009
  • #15
sparx said:
I am approaching the installation of an Edelbrock water pump along with the timing cover on my engine.

The Edelbrock pump comes with a rubber gasket fit between the pump and backing plate. All advice I have received so far is to use NO sealer between the rubber gasket and backing plate.

What do you think?
sparx
Click to expand...

what i like to do with rubber gaskets is use a little 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue the gasket to the part, a few dabs in various places works nicely, and then bolt the part in place without any other sealer. the adhesive will hold the gasket in place, and the rubber itself does all the sealing. this works very nicely with valve cover gaskets also.
 
S

sparx

Member
Sep 2, 2009
369
1
19
Dec 26, 2009
#16
  • Dec 26, 2009
  • #16
rbohm said:
what i like to do with rubber gaskets is use a little 3M weatherstrip adhesive to glue the gasket to the part, a few dabs in various places works nicely, and then bolt the part in place without any other sealer. the adhesive will hold the gasket in place, and the rubber itself does all the sealing. this works very nicely with valve cover gaskets also.
Click to expand...

Do you use the stuff they call: "yellow snot"?
sparx
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Dec 26, 2009
#17
  • Dec 26, 2009
  • #17
sparx said:
Do you use the stuff they call: "yellow snot"?
sparx
Click to expand...

thats what we always called the 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
 
S

sparx

Member
Sep 2, 2009
369
1
19
Dec 26, 2009
#18
  • Dec 26, 2009
  • #18
that is what I was told to use on the valve cover side on valve cover gaskets
 

EP429

Member
Jun 30, 2007
125
5
18
Central Texas
Dec 27, 2009
#19
  • Dec 27, 2009
  • #19
sparx said:
that is what I was told to use on the valve cover side on valve cover gaskets
Click to expand...

Be forewarned, that yellow stuff is HARD to get off. You could remove your head bolts and seal the head down with the 3M WSA and probably keep good compression

On the serious side, if you need to remove that gasket, be sure to have a wire wheel handy
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Dec 27, 2009
#20
  • Dec 27, 2009
  • #20
EP429 said:
Be forewarned, that yellow stuff is HARD to get off. You could remove your head bolts and seal the head down with the 3M WSA and probably keep good compression

On the serious side, if you need to remove that gasket, be sure to have a wire wheel handy
Click to expand...

actually a little permtex gasket remover does quite nicely getting the weatherstrip adhesive off. however i do recommend using the weatherstrip adhesive sparingly.
 
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