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law · Nov 21, 2005

Final 50 that looks what I rented from checkers but it is kinda of small to confirm.

law · Nov 21, 2005

And yes all I could thread into the balancer was the two bolts plus the center bolt. Is it necessary to have all three bolts plus the center bolt threaded.

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2005

law said:
Final 50 that looks what I rented from checkers but it is kinda of small to confirm.

Thats fine!

Here is what you are trying to make happen.

The big long center bolt has a pointed washer looking thing that will fit on the end of the bolt. This will end up being right at the crank bolt hole opening. The washer thing protects the crank threads and allows the bolt to spin.

When you get the three bolts evenly screwed in the hb and the puller plate is parallel to the face of the hb ... you are ready to start the removal process.

Whats gonna happen here is this

As you turn the big bolt, the washer allows the bolt to spin and at the same time applies force to the puller plate. This causes the hb to be drawn away from the surface of the tc cover.

Hope that helps ... if not ... SHOUT BACK, lol.

Grady

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2005

Forgot to say this.

Last thing you wanna happen is to hose up your crank snout threads.

If you don't see how the puller makes the hb slide back away from the motor ......................

DON'T do anything that might damage those threads!

Grady

law · Nov 21, 2005

Okay...Final50 your explanation of how it works I think will help me out alot. For one thing I was not using that pointed washer. The only problem is that I can only thread two of the bolts on the harmonic balancer, does that matter or do I need all three to be threaded?

CManT1914 · Nov 21, 2005

law said:
Okay...Final50 your explanation of how it works I think will help me out alot. For one thing I was not using that pointed washer. The only problem is that I can only thread two of the bolts on the harmonic balancer, does that matter or do I need all three to be threaded?

No you don't have to use 3, just as long as the balancer is securely fastened to the puller via those bolts.

law · Nov 21, 2005

Okay I think I am just confused. I rented the whole kit from checkers. Now first of all does it matter the order of threading in the center bolt and the other three bolts. Second when you say that "center bolt has a pointed washer looking thing that will fit on the end of the bolt" are you referring to the center point. That is what it is called in the kit. And if that is what goes at the end of the puller center screw with that attached it will not allow the puller center screw to thread in. Sorry that I cannot get my sh** together. I am more hands on than trying to do something from instructions.

law · Nov 21, 2005

Okay I am reading the instructions on the kit. Now tell me if I am correct in its interpretation. It states, "Grease long black center bolt (do I need to do that), then thread center bolt through center hole in puller body, then place tip assembly (now is that referring to the center point?) onto end of center bolt and thread center bolt against crankshaft surface, using end wrench or ratchet tighten center bolt until balancer is pulled off of crankshaft.

Just for all the companies who make instructions it would be a lot easier, especially for a novice, when you refer to tools and parts as they are labeled in your own kit. Had to rant about that.

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2005

Can you not see that the puller plate and the hb are bolted together making them one and the same?

You then screw the big bolt in the center of the plate and then when the bolt end is a small way past the puller plate ......

Put the pointed washer slip fitting on the end of the bolt.

As you continue to screw the big bolt more and more the slip fitting will finaly rest against the crank snout bolt hole.

The hb bolt is out at this time ... CORRECT?
just making sure!

The big bolt should be centered in the middle of crank snout bolt hole.
just making sure!

As you tighten the big bolt, the big bolt gets tighter and tighter until the puller plate & hb starts to slip on the crank snout away from the tc cover.

Grady

HISSIN50 · Nov 21, 2005

I did not re-read all this and I am sure someone mentioned it, but make sure the washer is out of the HB hub as well.

I also did it with two bolts through the HB - it works.
Dont sweat greasing the threads on the tool.

Grady has set you up pretty good I think. Good luck.

final5-0 · Nov 21, 2005

HISSIN50 said:
I did not re-read all this and I am sure someone mentioned it, but make sure the washer is out of the HB hub as well.

I also did it with two bolts through the HB - it works.
Dont sweat greasing the threads on the tool.

Grady has set you up pretty good I think. Good luck.

Good point about the big washer I forgot JT

Law ... once you get it all set up ... things will make more sense

Like the Cable Guy says .............. Gitter Done

Grady

law · Nov 21, 2005

Ok Grady I think I got it. I will tackle it first thing in the morning. The instructions in the chilton, haynes, and kit leave little things out like that. I just want to be sure so I dont end up damaging anything.

law · Nov 21, 2005

You guys are real troopers...thanks again.

law · Nov 22, 2005

Alright now I cant figure out how to put the new balancer in. I guess the problem I am having is that the thrust bearing goes into the balancer. It is supposed to stop and lie on the balancer so that I can hold the nut in front of it while I thrust the center bolt in to push the balancer back into the desired position. Any help would be nice.

HISSIN50 · Nov 22, 2005

This thrust stuff is confusing my simple mind. When installing the balancer, you remove that little pointy tip from the big, central bolt (so the bolt can thread into the crank). Then you can use that to draw the balancer onto the crank.

Hey, make sure that if your install tool has sections, that they are real tight. I had some sort of extension shank on my install tool and it tried to stay behind in the crank - it could have been ugly. I got that part out and cinched all the parts of the install tool together in a vice and then it was good to go.

Good luck.

a50sn95 · Nov 22, 2005

I've not follwed the whole thread, but I'm assuming you're using an installer...

You should be able to slide the balancer on part way. Enough so you can line up the keyway with the key. You don't want to bump the key enough that it falls out of the crank. It's just a slight interference fit that holds it in.
Once you have it on the crank, you SHOULD be abke to put the (factory) washer that goes behind the (factory) bolt over the hole, thread in the bolt from the installer to the crank, then put on the thrust bearing from the installer and then the nut from the installer.
Personally, I just used the bolt and washer to pull it on the rest of the way.
I know it's not the recommended way, but.....
Put a little glob of RTV on the balancer where the keyway is, as oil CAN make its way past. I also rtv'd the back of the washer....
Dennis

law · Nov 22, 2005

Yes I am using an installer. I lined it up and slid the balancer on part way. What exactly is the woodruff key for? The key way is the line in the inside hub of the balancer right? The thrust bearing just goes into the hole. I am just not understanding, have any pics?

law · Nov 22, 2005

I got it in, my only question now is how far in do push the balancer?

law · Nov 22, 2005

Question, once you put the crank pulley back on should it be able to move freely like the rest of the pulleys? Second question, now my belt is too big. I am pretty positive that I routed it correctly. What the hell is going on?

law · Nov 22, 2005

Anyone?

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