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- Thread starter law
- Start date
law said:
Thats fine!
Here is what you are trying to make happen.
The big long center bolt has a pointed washer looking thing that will fit on the end of the bolt. This will end up being right at the crank bolt hole opening. The washer thing protects the crank threads and allows the bolt to spin.
When you get the three bolts evenly screwed in the hb and the puller plate is parallel to the face of the hb ... you are ready to start the removal process.
Whats gonna happen here is this
As you turn the big bolt, the washer allows the bolt to spin and at the same time applies force to the puller plate. This causes the hb to be drawn away from the surface of the tc cover.
Hope that helps ... if not ... SHOUT BACK, lol.
Grady
Forgot to say this.
Last thing you wanna happen is to hose up your crank snout threads.
If you don't see how the puller makes the hb slide back away from the motor ......................
DON'T do anything that might damage those threads!
Grady
Last thing you wanna happen is to hose up your crank snout threads.
If you don't see how the puller makes the hb slide back away from the motor ......................
DON'T do anything that might damage those threads!
Grady
CManT1914
New Member
law said:
No you don't have to use 3, just as long as the balancer is securely fastened to the puller via those bolts.
Okay I think I am just confused. I rented the whole kit from checkers. Now first of all does it matter the order of threading in the center bolt and the other three bolts. Second when you say that "center bolt has a pointed washer looking thing that will fit on the end of the bolt" are you referring to the center point. That is what it is called in the kit. And if that is what goes at the end of the puller center screw with that attached it will not allow the puller center screw to thread in. Sorry that I cannot get my sh** together. I am more hands on than trying to do something from instructions.
Okay I am reading the instructions on the kit. Now tell me if I am correct in its interpretation. It states, "Grease long black center bolt (do I need to do that), then thread center bolt through center hole in puller body, then place tip assembly (now is that referring to the center point?) onto end of center bolt and thread center bolt against crankshaft surface, using end wrench or ratchet tighten center bolt until balancer is pulled off of crankshaft.
Just for all the companies who make instructions it would be a lot easier, especially for a novice, when you refer to tools and parts as they are labeled in your own kit. Had to rant about that.
Just for all the companies who make instructions it would be a lot easier, especially for a novice, when you refer to tools and parts as they are labeled in your own kit. Had to rant about that.
Can you not see that the puller plate and the hb are bolted together making them one and the same?
You then screw the big bolt in the center of the plate and then when the bolt end is a small way past the puller plate ......
Put the pointed washer slip fitting on the end of the bolt.
As you continue to screw the big bolt more and more the slip fitting will finaly rest against the crank snout bolt hole.
The hb bolt is out at this time ... CORRECT?
just making sure!
The big bolt should be centered in the middle of crank snout bolt hole.
just making sure!
As you tighten the big bolt, the big bolt gets tighter and tighter until the puller plate & hb starts to slip on the crank snout away from the tc cover.
Grady
You then screw the big bolt in the center of the plate and then when the bolt end is a small way past the puller plate ......
Put the pointed washer slip fitting on the end of the bolt.
As you continue to screw the big bolt more and more the slip fitting will finaly rest against the crank snout bolt hole.
The hb bolt is out at this time ... CORRECT?
just making sure!
The big bolt should be centered in the middle of crank snout bolt hole.
just making sure!
As you tighten the big bolt, the big bolt gets tighter and tighter until the puller plate & hb starts to slip on the crank snout away from the tc cover.
Grady
I did not re-read all this and I am sure someone mentioned it, but make sure the washer is out of the HB hub as well.
I also did it with two bolts through the HB - it works.
Dont sweat greasing the threads on the tool.
Grady has set you up pretty good I think. Good luck.
I also did it with two bolts through the HB - it works.
Dont sweat greasing the threads on the tool.
Grady has set you up pretty good I think. Good luck.
Alright now I cant figure out how to put the new balancer in. I guess the problem I am having is that the thrust bearing goes into the balancer. It is supposed to stop and lie on the balancer so that I can hold the nut in front of it while I thrust the center bolt in to push the balancer back into the desired position. Any help would be nice.
This thrust stuff is confusing my simple mind. When installing the balancer, you remove that little pointy tip from the big, central bolt (so the bolt can thread into the crank). Then you can use that to draw the balancer onto the crank.
Hey, make sure that if your install tool has sections, that they are real tight. I had some sort of extension shank on my install tool and it tried to stay behind in the crank - it could have been ugly. I got that part out and cinched all the parts of the install tool together in a vice and then it was good to go.
Good luck.
Hey, make sure that if your install tool has sections, that they are real tight. I had some sort of extension shank on my install tool and it tried to stay behind in the crank - it could have been ugly. I got that part out and cinched all the parts of the install tool together in a vice and then it was good to go.
Good luck.
a50sn95
Founding Member
I've not follwed the whole thread, but I'm assuming you're using an installer...
You should be able to slide the balancer on part way. Enough so you can line up the keyway with the key. You don't want to bump the key enough that it falls out of the crank. It's just a slight interference fit that holds it in.
Once you have it on the crank, you SHOULD be abke to put the (factory) washer that goes behind the (factory) bolt over the hole, thread in the bolt from the installer to the crank, then put on the thrust bearing from the installer and then the nut from the installer.
Personally, I just used the bolt and washer to pull it on the rest of the way.
I know it's not the recommended way, but.....
Put a little glob of RTV on the balancer where the keyway is, as oil CAN make its way past. I also rtv'd the back of the washer....
Dennis
You should be able to slide the balancer on part way. Enough so you can line up the keyway with the key. You don't want to bump the key enough that it falls out of the crank. It's just a slight interference fit that holds it in.
Once you have it on the crank, you SHOULD be abke to put the (factory) washer that goes behind the (factory) bolt over the hole, thread in the bolt from the installer to the crank, then put on the thrust bearing from the installer and then the nut from the installer.
Personally, I just used the bolt and washer to pull it on the rest of the way.
I know it's not the recommended way, but.....
Put a little glob of RTV on the balancer where the keyway is, as oil CAN make its way past. I also rtv'd the back of the washer....
Dennis
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