Servicing brakes

5.0 Nostalgia

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Feb 28, 2003

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Feb 27, 2006

#1

• Feb 27, 2006

• #1

This is a pretty basic question, but I have never done anything with brakes before so I need a little help.

I want to service the brakes in my car. I plan on doing it this week. I would like to put on new pads and resurface the rotors. I need to know how to remove all this. Once I take the tire off, I know I have to remove the caliper but don't know how. I have the correct torx bits and probably all the other tools. Once I get everything off, I can take the rotors to my cousin's shop.

Thanks.

 

wythors

Get off my lawn!!!

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May 17, 2000

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C Addle

Feb 27, 2006

#2

• Feb 27, 2006

• #2

It's very basic. On each caliper there are two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket and two bolts that hold the bracket to the spindle. The one thing you need to know is that you're going to need a special tool to retract the rear caliper pistons. They rotate rather than press in. Go to harborfreight.com or someplace like that and buy a cheap caliper piston kit. You'll thank me later.

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Feb 27, 2006

#3

• Feb 27, 2006

• #3

Thanks for the information. Would I need that tool to remove the caliper or just to take it apart?

 

wythors

Get off my lawn!!!

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Feb 28, 2006

#4

• Feb 28, 2006

• #4

Just a wrench or a socket.

 

1999SVTVert

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Nov 2, 2003

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Gainesville, FL

Feb 28, 2006

#5

• Feb 28, 2006

• #5

You won't need the tool to get the calipers or the bracket off. Those are just normal bolts.

What you will need it for is to get the caliper back on if you install new pads- The caliper piston will be quite a ways out if your old pads were getting thin. Many calipers can just be pressed back in using a c-clamp or such. The rear calipers don't work like that- They turn back in.

The tool has two cogs on it that mate with gaps on the pistons (like turning a spike out of golf shoes). You put the tool on a 3/8 in drive wrench extention and turn them all the way back in. This gives you the clearance to fit the caliper over the thicker, new brake pads. Once you press on the brakes the first time, the pistons will come back out to the proper depth with the new pads.

One thing- before you press any brake pistons back in, check the brake fluid reservoir and make sure it is not all the way full- Turning in the pistons will back fluid up in the system and can overflow the reservoir.

Hope this helps-

 

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Jul 16, 2006

#6

• Jul 16, 2006

• #6

Thank you guys. Five months later, I have finally started this job. Work has been busy and the car has not really been driven. So far the directions have been great. The only problem I have had is trying to figure out how to get the caliper bracket off the calipers in front. It was easy to find the bolts for the bracket in the rear, but I can't figure out how to separate the bracket from the caliper in front.

 

1999SVTVert

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Nov 2, 2003

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Gainesville, FL

Jul 17, 2006

#7

• Jul 17, 2006

• #7

Which car are you doing, your Cobra or your 89? I'll scan some parts diagrams when I get home of the Cobra brake assembly if you still need it.

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Jul 17, 2006

#8

• Jul 17, 2006

• #8

I am doing the Cobra. I also have some other questions.

When turning back the pistons, do I just press them back until they sit flush with the caliper?

Next, I have EBC pads. The rear pads have some kind of an adhensive backed padding that they come with. Is that some kind of a shim that goes on the outside (non-contact side) of the pad?

Finally, when replacing the rotors, do you just slip off the old ones and slip the new ones on?

Sorry about all the questions, but it just seems so basic that I am afraid I may be missing something.

Thanks again for your help.

 

1999SVTVert

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Gainesville, FL

Jul 18, 2006

#9

• Jul 18, 2006

• #9

When you turn in the back pistons, just turn them in as far as you can- Usually this will be a little further in than the rubber seal. The whole goal is to get enough clearance to fit the new pads (thicker) and rotor (may be thicker) in the caliper. Just turn until you can't any more and is should be plenty. The first time you step on the brakes the piston will come back out to where it needs to be to operate.

I know the rubber pads you are talking about. They kind of look like a rubber fridge magnet, if I recall correctly. You should stick them on the outside of the pads where they contact either the piston on one side, or the caliper bracket on the other side. They are made to absorb the high-pitched vibrations that occur every time you step on the brakes (squeal). You can buy anti-squeal compound at auto stores that you brush or spray on that serves the same purpose. with them stuck on everything should fit in, but if you damage the anti-squal pads a little getting it together, no big deal.

Replacing the rotors is indeed as easy as slipping the old on off and new one on. The old may be retained by a couple of clips that hold them on during the assembly line, but you can just twist these off with some needlenose and discard. After you get the old rotors off, clean up the axle with a wire brush to make sure the new one sits flush and true and isn't resting on any little bit of rust. After working to get off a pair of rusted on rotors, I would apply a bit of anti-sieze compound to the back of the rotor or the axle where it contacts- Ford recommends this and I now know why.

Then just slip the new rotors on, throw a lug bolt or two to hold them in place temporarily, and assemble the caliper and pads.

Hope this helps.

 

1999SVTVert

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Gainesville, FL

Jul 18, 2006

#10

• Jul 18, 2006

• #10

I forgot to add, with the EBC pads, they usually come with a redish bedding compound alreadyon the brake pad face. It may make it a little tight getting it all together, sometimes a rubber mallet may be called for to get the caliper, shims and pads on the rotor. If it is a lot tight, a little careful sandpapering of the brake pads may be necessary. I didn't have to with my EBCs on front, haven't put greenstuff pads on my rears yet.

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Jul 18, 2006

#11

• Jul 18, 2006

• #11

Thanks again.

I will get on this tommorrow and let you know how everything goes.

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Jul 19, 2006

#12

• Jul 19, 2006

• #12

I almost forgot, where are the bolts to take the caliper bracket off the caliper on the front? I couldn't find them.

 

1999SVTVert

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Jul 19, 2006

#13

• Jul 19, 2006

• #13

Oh, yeah- Almost forgot. On the Cobra front brakes, it isn't bolted on to the caliper frame- It is retained by a pin. You will see the pin running throught the lower edge of the caliper. On the backside of the caliper you will see a small C-clip about 1/2" across. Remove the C-clip (I used a small flat screwdriver, pried to get it started, and removed with needlenose). Then you can tap out the pin using a nail set or something similar. Once you get the pin out, you will be able to pry the lower part of the caliper upwards, the higher portion of the caliper and pads just rests in a recess. It will make perfect sense once you look at it and start tearing into it.

When you re-assemble, be sure to grease the pin and its area, being sure not to get any grease on the pad area. It helps prevent squeeling and noise as the caliper and pads slide along the pin.

Hope this helps-

Here are some pics from when I painted my calipers and installed green-stuff pads:

View attachment 454649

View attachment 454651

View attachment 454652

View attachment 454653

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Feb 28, 2003

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Jul 19, 2006

#14

• Jul 19, 2006

• #14

Thanks again. That definitely helps a ton. I was going to paint my calipers as well, but I don't feel like disconnecting the brake lines. It definitely looks nicer.

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Jul 19, 2006

#15

• Jul 19, 2006

• #15

Do you rotate the piston clockwise to retract it in the rear? It doesn't seem like anything is happening. Maybe it just has to be turned more than I thought.

 

P

Price1

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Dryfork, WV

Jul 21, 2006

#16

• Jul 21, 2006

• #16

Yes, they turn clockwise. They are very hard to turn and, yes, it takes a lot of turns to get it bottomed out. Also, note that those two notches in the piston need to line up with the similarly placed buttons on the back of your brake pads. Because of this little fact, I toasted a set of pads AND a rotor. NAPA has a special Ford disc tool for about $10 that uses a 3/8 drive socket to turn. Makes the job to turn the piston in a WHOLE lot easier.

Good luck....

 

5.0 Nostalgia

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Jul 25, 2006

#17

• Jul 25, 2006

• #17

Price1 said:

Yes, they turn clockwise. They are very hard to turn and, yes, it takes a lot of turns to get it bottomed out. Also, note that those two notches in the piston need to line up with the similarly placed buttons on the back of your brake pads. Because of this little fact, I toasted a set of pads AND a rotor. NAPA has a special Ford disc tool for about $10 that uses a 3/8 drive socket to turn. Makes the job to turn the piston in a WHOLE lot easier.

Good luck....

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I actually did not do that. I don't have much time work on this, so the tires are still off the car. It shouldn't be too hard to take it off and slide them into place. My only concern is the shim kit because they cover up those notches. Should I cut the shims in those places?