several intake gasket questions

thenewguy65

New Member
Jun 14, 2006
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I am installing a 4 barrel intake and I have a few questions

Will any 302 4 barrel intake gasket work ? like for 90 5.0 mustang for example ?
Some gaskets say install dry yet I see alot people (based on me searching) say use sealer around the water passages.

I plan on throwing away the front and back gaskets (based on my searching).

Do I HAVE to remove the dizzy or can I do it with it in ? My preference is to leave it in. I am learning and would feel better with it in. My logic is as follows: If I put the intake on the car and there's a problem it cuts down on the possible sources. Is that sound logic ?
 
302's from 1976 and up require one set of gaskets, the earlier ones are different. The later ones will leak water out of the front or rear edge of the heads if put on the earlier engine. The aftermarket intake manifolds will work on both. Yes, you can leave the distributor in, but make sure the wires aren't going to get in the way before you start laying silicone.
 
The previous owner said it was a 76 302 actually. He said he'd had the heads worked the heads to give more power. I guess the mid 70's heads aren't the best for power from what I have read but that's what's on there now. The owner told me that I'd have to eventually replace the carb when I bought it to get good reliability.

The intake is a stock cast iron intake from 1966.

When I did a search through the forum, I saw where one guy was using an 83 302 intake that looked identical to my cast iron one except it was aluminum. I am on a budget but I could spring for one of those if it made a difference. 83 have emissions ?

That brings me to another question. Can I run the 66 intake without a spacer ? What about the 83 intake? Do I have to run a spacer with that one as well ?
 
The 80's 4 bbl intake is basically the 60's one but aluminum. I don't think you'll be able to run either without a spacer, I know you can't with a Holley, it won't sit flat without it. It's actually better to pull the distributor as far as setting the intake back in place. With it out, you can install 4 2" long carb studs , 2 per side, in the intake bolt holes in the heads, to act as guides in setting the intake in place. And as far as not using the end gaskets, check the gap under the intake first before doing anything. Set the new intake gaskets in place, without sealer, then set the intake down in place. Check the gap under the intake. Too big a gap and you need the end gaskets. Felpro's new style cork end gaskets have an adhesive on one side to keep them in place, so they don't sqeeze out.
 
I am sticking an Autolite 4100 on it. I made that decision because from what I read it was simple to work on. I have rebuilt that What is an E7 head ? I thought the numbers would have been D6 for 76. I haven't checked that yet but that's what I would think that's what it would be if they truly are heads from 76.
 
E7TE's are the heads used on the HO and truck/van 5.0's and 5.8's from 87-to 96. You're correct in the year of your heads, although they could be newer than 76's, it wasn't a one year only casting, only the first model year it was used on.
 
Thanks for all your help, just a few more questions.

If I wanted to use an Edelbrock Performer 289 (came with the car as left over parts) intake, I assume I'd need a different carb gasket, since the Performer intake has the different opening. The gasket that came with the rebuild kit has 4 holes.

trying to weigh some options here.
 
use the Performer. it will give you much more fun ( need a new gasket like you said ) it's dual plane so you will have some more torque ;) hehe lower down like 1500 like they say. if you're looking to not spend anymore money and actually get it going a little meaner that performer will be nice! good spare part to have come with the car!!