She runs....

Joes95GT

Joes95GT

New Member
Jan 23, 2003
3,132
1
0
Delaware
#1
On Friday, we finally buttoned it up and got her started. It should have been done Tuesday, but due to my ignorance, the project had to be halted because the upper intake manifold bolts from the stock piece were too short. Duh! Has anyone ever tried to go out and find a 5/16-18-6 3/8" bolt? Well, don't :D. So we roll it out of the garage, check all the vacuum lines one last time, and boom, she starts....

This is where stuff starts to get ugly...

She dies, immediately. Try to keep it alive with the throttle body and TPS, still no dice. I'm thinking to myself, "you ignorant son of a bitch." Timing was spot on 10* when she was stalling out. If I rev it up, and slowly let the revs fall to about 1200 and keep it there for about a minute, and progressively let it down to 800, she'll idle fine. It drives great. I never took it past 3500, but she did not feel weak or at a loss of power, so everything is hooked up correctly. I also haven't experienced any CEL lights or cold/hot start problems. I cruised for about 30 miles on I-95 at about 72 MPH and it never got past R on the stock temp gauge.

I'm really at a loss of what I could do to try and help the car out. The cam is humongous, so that doesn't help anything out, but I don't remember hearing/reading about problems like mine. It runs extremely fat at idle, and stupid 'ol me has never even thought to invest in an adjustable regulator. I'm going to order one of them tonight, but I honestly don't see that helping the idle quality. I'm thought of JMS chips, but I've heard sketchy stuff about mail-order chips. If anyone has experience with JMS, I'd be glad to hear it. Can they give me something to help the idle quality? Lastly, I've thought of the Tweecer. But the Tweecer can't gather information until the car is running. I can't keep the car running long enough for it to gather any type of information. I'll have to do my research on the Tweecer, because that seems like it's my best choice.

Sorry for the length. I'm just at a loss and any input would be appreciated...

Joe
 
#3
Try letting it idle once warm so the EEC can learn the new idle/part throttle fuel curves. Drive it as lsow as possible too for a while to let it get the lower load A/F tables corrected. Don't give up too soon, the EEC is pretty adaptable - but you gotta give it some time.
 
#4
The stock GT calibration is very unforgiving of cams -- if the idle vacuum is less than 14 or so, it'll start to surge. Dying immediately is just a really big surge that only lasts for one iteration :rlaugh:. I think you would definitely see an improvement by going with a chip or TwEECer and J4J1 (Cobra) calibration. It's much more forgiving of cams.

Dave
 
#5
Good to hear your car is running. Bump the timing up man, try 16*. If I were you, i'd do a chip, but only if the shop knows how to tune. Im curious how "humoungus" your cam is, could you PM me with the specs? You show me yours and i'll show you mine :D Are your heads milled? What did you ask ed for when you discussed the car and combo?

Mike
 
#6
tmoss said:
Try letting it idle once warm so the EEC can learn the new idle/part throttle fuel curves. Drive it as lsow as possible too for a while to let it get the lower load A/F tables corrected. Don't give up too soon, the EEC is pretty adaptable - but you gotta give it some time.
Click to expand...

Yeah, like he said. Try to let it idle if you can and let the computer relearn your curves. It takes like 25(I believe) keystarts to learn everything. I had similar problems with my setup. I just kept with it, and it runs/idles great. It was frusterating sitting there for long streches basically holding the cars hand until it can idle on its own. But once you do it enough it should behave.
Good luck. :nice:
 
#7
My car did the same thing when i first drove it. I opened up the radiator cap and let it idle and get some of the air out of the system. Then it cooled just fine. I also have a Fluidyne and 180 stat, which im sure helps alot.
 
#8
Joe,

I had all the problems you are having right after I put my H/C/I together and got a mail order chip - DON'T! I have personally had a very bad experience with JMS, which I won't go into on the boards, but please PM or email me if you would like a detailed explanation. After a lot of wasted time and money, I will be taking my car a couple hours away to get a dyno tune and hopefully solve all my problems.
 
#9
I don't think I need an explanation, Mark. Thanks though. I talked to Ed today and he painted the picture for me; I got the point. I'm going to go with a Tweecer, but they are all backordered :bang:. Now I have to find either a used one, or some small outfit that still hasn't ran out. I tried Dallas Mustang and Tweecer. Both were no good.

As for the car, I bumped the timing to 15* after the initial drive around the block. The only thing holding me back is the processor. I've let it idle for 30-minute periods and have driven it around the block for 15 minutes at speeds less than 25 MPH. Once I finally get the car to idle, and I hit the gas pedal again, it kills it. I have to find the medium, and once I do, it cannot be disturbed or else the car stalls. I'm just trying to find a Tweecer because I really feel like that is my only choice.

Joe
 
#11
17yrOldStanger said:
im looking into getting myself a tweecer as well. what all is needed for one? just a PC and some money? ive done quite a lot of research and that seems about all i need. now i need to research how to work it.
Click to expand...

I would wait in the tweecer until after you have aftermarket heads and a cam. Just my opinion, though.
 
#17
Good to hear you got it all back together man. :nice:
Ahh the bugs and stress of these car will kill us all one day from high blood pressure. :mad:
You will get the bugs all worked out in time and your car is gonna be a frigg'n monster and sound nice as hell!
 
#18
Yep, the battery was unhooked the whole time over the past few months. I'm going to go screw around with it in a few minutes. It is set to idle at 750, but I may try to raise it up to 850-900 to see if that helps. I doubt it will help much, but I'll take every little bit I can get.

Jake - Thanks for the heads up. I'll definitely check it out. Cripes, I'm so desperate, I'd probably pay the $550 for a used one.

JR - You should hear it when it does actually idle. The whole car shakes. It sounds pretty ignorant. :D

Joe
 
#19
Hey Joe

I agree with everybody else about giving the pcm time to learn but if things get only a bit better you might try reclocking the maf and doing a pcm reset to see it it helps.

Just a shot in the dark of an idea you could try.

I have seen many threads where others have fiddeled around with clocking the maf, tb stop screw and such and they say things worked out ok for them.

If your cam is anything like mine I wish you luck cause even with my Tweecer I got only so so results from trying to tweec the T4M0 pcm. I finally bailed on the T4M0 and loaded the J4J1 (Cobra) cal file for an instant improvement of drivability and never looked back.

Later
Grady
 
#20
Glad to hear its running... :nice: Monster cams....Ya gotta love em... :bang:

I actually bought a nice laptop so i could go Tweecer....The laptops stashed away and I never use it, never did get the Tweecer...Go figure...Good luck finding a one..I surf alot of classifieds..I'll keep an eye out for ya... :D
 
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