Shelby 1" drop vs 1 3/4" negative wedge drop
- Thread starter 65cpe69mach1
- Start date
DarkBuddha posted a write up here:
http://groups.msn.com/DBsMustang/suspensionmodificationsteps.msnw
BobV did a write up on his home page here: (look for tech pages)
http://www.gt350clone.com/
corner-carvers has a good write up here:
http://corner-carvers.com/wiki/index.php?Vintage Mustang Tech
I think BobV's site explains and issue with the roll center being adversely effected with the extra drop of the negative wedge kit, and the shelby drop ultimately not being enough for the BEST handling due to ball joint angle issues...
But check it out, there's some good info on all those sites.
http://groups.msn.com/DBsMustang/suspensionmodificationsteps.msnw
BobV did a write up on his home page here: (look for tech pages)
http://www.gt350clone.com/
corner-carvers has a good write up here:
http://corner-carvers.com/wiki/index.php?Vintage Mustang Tech
I think BobV's site explains and issue with the roll center being adversely effected with the extra drop of the negative wedge kit, and the shelby drop ultimately not being enough for the BEST handling due to ball joint angle issues...
But check it out, there's some good info on all those sites.
Opentracker
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Just did some work today for a '68 coup track car with the 1 3/4" drop. No need for a wedge kit on this arm, check out the angle of the ball joint area.
For a street car there is no need for the 1 3/4" drop in my opinion, the 1" drop is plenty and the ball joint won't bind. The stock upper arm is very strong too, no need for tubular arms on anything but a full on race car. We do the 1" drop with stock arms to all the cars. The track cars get modified stock arms like this one and more than a 1" drop.
John
DarkBuddha
Founding Member
HistoricMustang
Active Member
Very good, very good indeed. No major bucks being spent.
John, is there any re-enforcement added to the metal when the second hole is cut? Just wondering if there should be some stress concerns, especially on the race cars at speed.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
John, is there any re-enforcement added to the metal when the second hole is cut? Just wondering if there should be some stress concerns, especially on the race cars at speed.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Opentracker
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I'm not sure what you mean by a second hole? I cut a wedge out of the side of the upper arm like this,
bend the arm and weld it up. The bottom of the arm gets boxed similar to the ones Cobra Automotive uses. No worries about them coming apart at speed or under braking.
John
HistoricMustang
Active Member
Yes John, I now see what you are saying and this should be OK.
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Opentracker
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This brace will tie the ball joint area in with the metal at the spring perch and shaft. It's still in mock up, so if it doesn't look safe I'll change things. The boxing Cobra Automotive and Maier racing does, doesn't include the ball joint area. This brace is my own design, the ball joint area should have some support in my opinion.
John
Stock arm....
Not stock arm....
Opentracker
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This is a Cobra Automotive arm. Notice how they cut the arm to change the angle of the ball joint area and there is no extra support for the ball joint. Cobra sells only the best and this arm is not ever going to have problems. They run these arms on the fastest Mustangs in the country. I just can't A-Ford to buy a set for each of our track cars so I make my own stuff. My brace will run 1/2" off the deck of the arm, supported at the spring perch mounting point by thick wall tubing to allow access to the spring perch bolts and welded to the inside area where the perch sits. The Cobra arm is welded at the flanges only. I'm not sure how this can be three times stronger but I'm willing to learn. We inspect the cars often for cracks and worn parts. I'll be looking close at theses arms once they hit the track. Thanks for the input.
John
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Did some more work on the arms today. The brace will have a bit of a arch to it like the Cobra Automotive brace.
The blue tape shows where the brace is inside the arm.
I made a bunch of paper templates to give to who wants one. I have not made the holes for the spring perches yet, it will get some.
It will get welded up soon and I'll show some photos of the finished piece. Looks plenty strong to me but I'm up for any critisism.
John
The blue tape shows where the brace is inside the arm.
I made a bunch of paper templates to give to who wants one. I have not made the holes for the spring perches yet, it will get some.
It will get welded up soon and I'll show some photos of the finished piece. Looks plenty strong to me but I'm up for any critisism.
John
John,
Your work is looking awesome!! I had a question and a pic that i could share. I was wondering why your not welding the new box section at the edge of the arm? Have you thought about a screw in balljoint, seem like it would be really easy to include the edge of the balljoint bung in the new boxed area for strength.. I have a pic of the side of the Cobra arm for reference..
here
Your work is looking awesome!! I had a question and a pic that i could share. I was wondering why your not welding the new box section at the edge of the arm? Have you thought about a screw in balljoint, seem like it would be really easy to include the edge of the balljoint bung in the new boxed area for strength.. I have a pic of the side of the Cobra arm for reference..
here
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Total cost so far is $1.83 for the steel. Send me your address and I'll send out a template.
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vrooom,
I don't know how to do the PDF stuff. I would rather make it from a real template myself. I'll ship them out for free to anyone who wants one. Email me at [email protected] and give me a mail address. I don't have a template for the cut on the side. MrPantera did the mod to the arms on his '67. The side cut can be made by using his method, if you have trouble let me know. This car is getting the 1 3/4" drop.
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Bill,
Thanks,
I'm going to weld in the boxing plate full circle. All the way around the edge of the arm and all the way around the spring perch area. I wanted the arms to look stock, even a quick glance under this arm may not tell the whole story. I'm not trying to deceive anyone, just make it look stock. The screw in ball joints that fit the Mustang spindle have a spring in the bottom like the lower ball joints do in our cars. In my opinion it's not safe to use as a upper ball joint on a car that has the coil spring on the upper arm. Thanks for the pic of the side of the Cobra arm, I hadn't seen that angle of it before (nice spring perch). I'm sure you recognize the other Cobra arm and the table.
John
HistoricMustang
Active Member
John great stuff and proof that you do not have to spend a ton of money to make these great machines perform.
My hat is off to you!
Henry
My hat is off to you!
Henry
Hack
15 Year Member
I got mine at a local hardware store. You have to find an "old school" hardware store that has everything and anything. If I were you, I'd ask around locally if you don't have any ideas off the top of your head. Or just look in the yellow pages and call around. That could save you some time driving all over town.65cpe69mach1 said:
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