shelby drop template

TC00GT · Oct 6, 2006

Has anyone used the TCP template? Is it worth the 50 bucks or will a home made template (1/16" steel maybe) do the trick? I think the TCP template has the full size holes, I've seen some with a 1/8" pilot hole. Would it be better to start with the 1/8" bit and work my way up to the full size?

P.S. Anyone have an old template laying around they would like to part with?! :SNSign:

tos · Oct 6, 2006

I'm a machinist and made my own which i think are better that any you can buy cause i welded guide sleeves on mine to keep the drill from walking. They are full size holes and if you have a good sharp drill bit you wont need to drill a pilot hole. you can borrow mine if you promise to send them back to me.

joesgt281 · Oct 6, 2006

TC00GT said:
Anyone have an old template laying around they would like to part with?!

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1354725/

krash kendall · Oct 6, 2006

I CNC machined some for myself and my neighbour with the intructions engraved on them (the '65-'66 one is reversable). I put 1/8 guide holes in so you can use a transfer punch or pilot bit. The intention is to use a Unibit step drill after the pilot hole.

All I can say is that after making my own, fifty bucks is way too much to spend!

ultrastang · Oct 6, 2006

The final hole size needs to be 17/32".

ultrastang · Oct 6, 2006

The final hole size needs to be 17/32".

zookeeper · Oct 6, 2006

I wouldn't drill a 17/32 hole, even though I know most templates call for it. Since a 1/2" stud is what needs to fit, drill a 1/2" hole. Drills typically drill a few thousandths over anyway and bolts typically measure a few thousandths under. Any amount of oversize in the hole could lead to the studs (and therefore the upper control arm) to move around, which will lead to a wallowed out hole. Make it a snug fit and you won't be sorry.

66Runt · Oct 7, 2006

I have always used a paper template

and a sharp center punch. Never had a problem. I use a 1/2" hole punch for top reference holes, and mark a thin "X" where I need to center punch the shock tower. Done a bunch this way, never been off.
I use a couple of 1/2" bolts to hold the template in place, punch the center of the "X", Quick measurement to make sure nothing is off then drill a 1/8" pilot hole. , then 3/8" drill bit, then 1/2" drill bit. Finish off with a chamfer bit to just touch the edges. No cracks, no miss drilled holes. Works everytime.

Graph paper makes it easier, but it's not required if you've got some drafting tools. When we first starting doing this stuff they didn't have metal templates, and we weren't smart enough to make them. I like the idea of punching through the center of a thin lined "X" anyways. No chance of being off set in the hole that way.

YMMV,

2bav8 · Oct 7, 2006

I agree that a 1/2" drill bit is best for the final holes.
Its a better fit and a lot easier to find than a 17/32"!

TC00GT · Oct 9, 2006

TOS, I sent you a PM.

CarFreakGT · Oct 9, 2006

66Runt said:
I use a 1/2" hole punch for top reference holes, and mark a thin "X" where I need to center punch the shock tower. Done a bunch this way, never been off.
I use a couple of 1/2" bolts to hold the template in place, punch the center of the "X", Quick measurement to make sure nothing is off then drill a 1/8" pilot hole. , then 3/8" drill bit, then 1/2" drill bit. Finish off with a chamfer bit to just touch the edges. No cracks, no miss drilled holes. Works everytime.

Graph paper makes it easier

If you want a paper template, I believe there is one on 2bav8's site:
http://www.geocities.com/2bav8/granada.html

EDIT: Scroll down past the Granada disc conversion part, to the section at the bottom of the page for the Shelby drop. There's a link in the middle of that section.

shelby drop template

TC00GT

tos

joesgt281

krash kendall

Active Member

ultrastang

ultrastang

zookeeper

66Runt

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2bav8

TC00GT

CarFreakGT

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